Hi Kris, Are you setting the valve clearances prior to fitting the motor or is a running concern and you are under the mudguard with the wheel removed? Are you aware that there are a few shortcuts to getting fried under the mudguard, setting the tappets with a running motor? Peter Toet

G'day Mal, I have been thinking about that by-pass hose from the head outlet fitting to the rear of the head and I am not convinced that it will make the engine run cooler at all, as it simply by-passes the radiator and makes the pump less efficient at getting the water to the top of the radiator. I have always felt that one of the Packard Plusses was a decent size radiator. A simple experiment of blocking off the hose would test the theory, except that your car has a temperature gauge fitted in the hose itself, whereas Packards ran their gauges from the rear of the head. See if one of the guys in Sydney, Wade or Peter Lewer has an infa-red thermometer and check front and rear head and block temps after consecutive couple of minute runs, with and without the bypass operating. I am confident that it will run much cooler if the coolant is running through the radiator core. It would also be better to get the blocked-open shutters working as it will certainly run too cool in winter, use more gas and sludge up the motor. Best regards and love the detail pics of the pumps. Peter

G'day Gentlemen, With regard to a possible rework of the Compensator Port Assembly, I would suggest that recommending or posting a modification to an OEM brake system, not having a history of failures, may be a big NO NO, in terms of legal liability. It is akin to giving someone legal advice when you are not legally "qualified".
I have 4 spare Treadle - vac cores and I inspected the spring on each today and each was fine. I consider that Gauss has a great idea in that any spare units should have the compensator valve assembly non-assembled to prevent imprinting on the sealing face. I shall do that on a unit which I have recently overhauled.
I am not aware if Bendix still exists today, but if it does and if it continues to market repair kits, then it is the entity holding the Public Liability Insurance for the product. I am NOT legally qualified BUT I urge caution as there may be some DEEP water out there. Best regards Peter Toet

I would be concerned about even turning the self levelling switch ON if the car is on jacks and not on the actual suspension as you could damage the system. An open circuit (broken) torsion level limit switch will certainly stop the system from working in the direction controlled by that limit switch. However, there are some very clever contributors to this site. Just don't touch anything or pull the motor out until you get a few more threads about where to start with the fault-finding. Best regards Peter Toet

G'day Mal, I am picking up the rotary engine powered pump tomorrow morning and it is a "Sachs". I have done a bit of research and if you asked me the same questions again I would say yes, it is from an NSU. This is because Felix Wankel invented the engine, but it was a radical change to a rotary compressor which NSU used as a motorbike supercharger in the early 1950's. Well done Mal. Peter

John, with regard to the Daimler, the built in jacking system consisted originally of 3 hand operated scissor type jacks attached to the chassis. I have one of the three jacks and am soaking it in diesel at the moment to free it up. I don't have any info on the Freestone and Webb body building company. I am not very impressed with the body as they have used ply under some of the main timber bearers. It has started to delaminate and it would have been much better to have used a suitable solid timber.
Daimler also had the habit of encasing their wiring looms in metal. Unfortunately they used a type of aircraft industry wiring which falls apart when it gets involved in too much water. When I got the car there were a number of wiring issues ( cross -feeds and shorting inside the metal conduits). It came to a head when I went to the April 2007 Packard National Tour in Toowoomba. The Daimler was in the driveway at the office. Daimler had also run the main Positive battery lead beside the fuel line, inside the chassis rail. The battery lead shorted on the fuel line, burnt through the line and fused the 10 mm ( three- eighth inch) battery lead. There was 20 imperial gallons of fuel in the boot and fortunately the car was pointing uphill at the time. I have had a fair bit of rewiring to do as it toasted the main loom ( inside the chassis- of course). The Daimler was easily the cost of a Packard 12 when new, but is a very different kettle of fish in terms of driveability and maintenance. Peter

G'Day Mal, I have not seen the pump so I am not sure what it's pedigree is. It is supposed to a single rotor, 100cc capacity. I shall let you know when I pick it up. BTW I have a very limited knowledge of Rotary development, including how much development companies such as NSU, Mazda, Norton, Suzuki, etc, put into the basic WANKEL engine. We have a few NSU rotary cars in our local club, but this is definitely not from an NSU. I have a Suzuki RE5 Rotary Motorbike as well, which I understand is closer to an NSU than a Mazda in design development. I wouldn't feel embarrassed about demonstrating a lack of knowledge, as I do it all the time, and am probably doing so right now. There are some very clever people on this site and someone who knows better usually corrects me and I learn from it. Peter

You only had to ask, Mal, the Daimler would have been keen for the work and we had all manner of connectors available. The pictures on the link from your original post are great. Readers please be aware that the spout of water and exhaust gas in the picture in your original post is about half that passing through the radiator. There is an equal amount leaving the radiator via the radiator to block outlet inside the engine bay. It really works and it is free. Glad to hear that your exhaust system is ok, I get mine checked every 6 months. Best regards Peter Toet

G'day Gauss, I am sure that you are correct in saying that the compensator valve stem sheared off because I did not assemble it correctly into the T-V. I know better now. Live and learn. Thanks for the info. Peter Toet

G'day John, I WISH that it WAS a 36 (150hp straight Eight), unfortunately it is a DE27 (110hp six). It is a Freestone and Webb hand built Aluminium body on a 138 inch wheelbase and there were only ever two made in non divider window. It has Bijur chassis lubrication, built in jacking system, 3 windscreen wipers and weighs in a just under 3 (THREE!!!!) tons unladen and drives exactly the same as my 533 Packard ( late 1927). I swapped a 1927 Harley for the car in a moment of weakness, and I am about to see it go. However, after seeing how well it blew out the radiator on Mal's 38,120 I am of two minds as to keeping the car. The prospective purchaser is due down this weekend so I shall do the Ettore Bugatti thing and assess if he is suitable to acquire it. Best regards Peter Toet .