So, gregor got the windows together yesterday while I was not in the garage. He was able to take apart the track that was used for the power windows, and salvage the channel that attaches to the 2 holes in the door. The part that was salvaged from the power windows also had the 2 points that fit right into the holes in the door, so location was easy to figure out. He drilled out the 2 points and used flush headed screws to mount the channel on the door.
The car really makes a good impression. Body is very solid, and was a one owner car for almost all it's life. Just have to get a trans in it.

Well, got some things soldered together. The little black square 7808 regulates the 12 volts down to 7.3 volts, then the diode drops that down to 6.7 which is right in the normal zone for a 6v system. Then the round transistor takes the 'signal' voltage from the 7808 and puts that out with a higher amperage for your 6 volt things. There are also 2 small caps and a resistor in there to keep the signal volatage stable. Tested ok last night with my multi meter, and will soon try a test run with gauges and clock. In the pic you can also see my dash gauge voltage regulator.
The casing of the 7808 is conected to ground, but you don't want to actually ground it, that is what pin 2 (middle) is for. I think that is how I smoked the last one, Also, don't swap polarity. I still have to mount the 7808 on the cooling ribs somewhere and insulate with plasti dip. Then hide under the dashboard.
Hope it works.

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Lookin Good Hank! Do you have any concerns with closing the hood when there is no support or hood latch in the front? I'm looking at doing my hood and trunklid next, and was a little worried that the hood might bend if closed with nothing in the front, or is your fender providing support.
-Mike

Shipping isnt too bad. I think something like 800$ for a Container From NY to Rotterdam The 400 paperwork. Then 500 From Rotterdam to Munich.
Near the rear Support of The window crank you can see two little holes. They would be used to align The channel where it is welded in. I have those on my Clipper. There is some channel that we can take off from The power window Parts and weld to The door. Just have to figure out exactly where.

Do power window Doors not have the little Track for the rear support of the window crank? Fronts coverted to low maint hand crank easily. Rears might be harder.

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Smoked The 7808. that is what is Supposed to regulate the voltage down to 7.3 volts. Learning as I go here. At least a new 7808 is only 67 cents. Will buy some more tomorrow

well, I found the plans to build a voltage reducer from 12 to 7.2 volts on a stude website, where I also saw a few names I know from packardinfo!
http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechx4.html

Here is a pic of all the parts I bought at the local electic supply shop. Total cost 10?. Started putting it together last night. Tricky stuff these small wires! When done, the transistor is rated up to 15 amps, so that will be plenty to power my clock and dash... Still have to figure out mounting things on the heatsink.
Hope the correct voltage is gentler on the clock, and this should make the circuit to the clock pull less amps. Whith resistors inline, I think that was putting more load on the clock contacts. Hope to get it functional soon, and can report how it works.

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Here's a pic of my 'new' kmh speedo and old faded gauges. Actually looks kind of cool with mixed colors.
I found the little gear to set the clock, and will have to put that back on the shaft of the pull knob. At least I found the parts stuck to the grease of the speedo!

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well, the naptha/wd40 had time to work in, then the hair dryer came in a day later and warmed up the dried up grease in the speedo. That's my theory anyway....At least it spins freely now.
However, I am still not happy with my clock performance. The time between electric winding events is about 40-50 seconds. I opened the case back up, and I can see that the mechanism is only winding about 1/3 of the way when the contacts close and electrifies the electromagent. It could be that the 1.5ohm 100watt resistor I am using is not quite right. I read that Big Kev has used a 2ohm on his clock...back on page 89 of his blog.
Not sure if the higher voltage is causing the clock to wind faster, but not as far, or if anybody has a better idea?

Before I knew better, I ran my clipper for one season with packard 440 solid core wires and pertronix 12 volt in my delco distributor. The plugs were resistor plugs, and the car ran fine. I now have resistor wires (from summit -that also say packard on them), but haven't run the car yet. So, I don't think it is a sudden death thing combining the solid core wires and pertronix, but it isn't good in the long run.
I mean all electronic stuff that is made has to be somewhat resistant to interference from external sources, such as heated driveways, overhead wires, cell phones or whatever. But in the long run, resistor wires would be safer.