I had to install flashers on my Clipper to register it in Germany. I bought a Single throw Double Pole switch and a second flasher can and wired it to The brake lights and The front parking lights. I can scan in my wiring diagram tonight. The only thing i didn't figure out so great is that when you apply The brakes, the four way flashers stay on with the brake lights.

pics
The wheels will some day get blasted and powdercoated...untill then I have dirty wheels on my old frame. Had to put the hubcaps on for some bling!

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Thanks JW, I soaked them overnight and put them in this morning. Cleaned out the drums well, and cleaned out the wheel bearings, then re greased and drove in the seals. Front wheels are on, and the chassis is sitting on four wheels!!! Yeah!!!
I actually did the 20 FtLbs and back off one castellation on the wheel bearing, and it felt pretty good. (Like I had always tightened wheel bearings before by hand/feel) Anyway, drums, wheels and hub caps on, and off the jack stands she went!
Ran the fuel line from the engine to the back, but left the back to finish when the body and tank are there...Here is a pic of the rear drums before I put them on...there is a pretty good groove on the surface that seals to the outter seal, which is not really such an important surface to seal since the inner seal keeps the oil in the rear axle. What do you guys think? Leave it, or put a sleeve on there?
I also sprayed the frame from above and the sides with an undercoating 'wax' that stays plyable and should prevent any water from getting into little crevices in the frame....Sad to put that stuff over my nicely painted frame, but it should be another layer of protection.
Need to paint the firewall, and then I can drop the body onto the frame!

yeah, 53 and part of 54 have a different pinion seal than most other years. Just ordered from Max. Anybody in Germany or europe with a 48-52 looking for a seal?
Can somebody tell me which year this seal fits? The number is National -5856, and it is 3.5 inch od, and looks to be 1.5 inch ID.

Also, another question. I have leather replacement seals for the front wheel bearings. (Chicago Rawhiders) should I soak them overnight in oil before installing like I would with the pinion seal?
Thanks guys.

Danke Gusha! Today I took the yoke out of the rear axle, and the seal I had bought is too big in OD and too small in ID. Need to get a seal asap. Rats!!!! 2inch id and 3,1095inch od. Had to use a 4 foot extender on the 3/4 Drive ratchet, but it came loose.

Today i got The T-O bearing return spring in, rear wheels and drums on, and half the exhaust in as well as flywheel lower cover plate.

On vacation now, and was the last two days working hard on the packard. Engine clutch and trans went onto the frame, and I also painted the brake drums. Today I hope to get that JHZ(/&&(DH!!XX throwout bearing return spring mounted, and wheels on the chassis. Then perhaps driveshaft, fuel line, exhaust....OK, we'll see how far I get today.
For anybody putting a bellhousing and clutch back together from zero...First the bellhousing on motor, then flywheel, then clutch fork, then!!! disk and pressure plate! I went through about 4 together and apart cycles before I got it right, but now it is together....Also broke two pressure plate to flywheel bolts by over-tightening and had to take the flywheel back off and drill out the bolts on the drill press. Had a few set backs, but still got things together.
Starting to look like something! Have to clean the dust of the engine and take some beauty shots


Wow, and looking back to one year ago...

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The brake Fluid on my 2009 car gets changed every 2 years according to the normal Service plan! I do think that is on the safe side, but every 2-3 years brake fluid should be something that gets changed. We change Oil all The time. Why not brake fluid? Prevents rust and brake fade if you boil you brakes. (When water gets in The brake Fluid, The boiling point lowers.)

Haha Amen. But there is nothing to discuss!i

You might find some old shop that does alternators and generator service. You can give them your gen and regulator, or buy a new regulator from them for ~50 bucks, and they should have a bench where they can test run your gen and regulator as a system. They will know how to bend and gap everything to get the right cut off and on voltages.
Sorry I can't be of more help, but sometimes giving the parts to an expert is worth the time/cost.

Most everywhere I have heard and read that OD's should get 90w GL1 old fashioned gear oil. That is what I got for my 53 with OD.
Some use SAE85W-140 Valvoline High Perf Gear Oil, but I plan on staying with the 'oldfashioned stuff'