...and since it's Dec 3rd....

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I thought some reminders of how to set up your Packard Showroom for the holidays are in order. This will convince Kevin to put up "The Lights". It just so happens that the 1940 calendar lines up with 2019.

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All,
Chris gave me permission to show some of the repair of his 39 Six Stewart Warner speedometer.

This unit was a good example of needing cleaning and lubrication. Very good original unit.

Cleaning: Removing the old, crusty gear grease and bearing oil is always a given. What most people are not aware of is the tendency of the spinning magnet (cylindrical in the case of Chris' Stewart Warner) to attract metal debris (see photo). If large or thick enough, the debris then begins to contact the speed cup, whose shaft is directly connected to the speed pointer (or in older cars the rotating speed indicator, ala pre-30's Packards and other makes). The contact of the rotating debris then clutches with and drags the pointer to either full scale or bouncing.
As I stated prior in this post thread, hardened grease and oil can also cause needle bounce. Notice the before photo of the dirty mainshaft oil wick. Also, all the tan areas on the frame are the dried residue of oil and grease.

Lubricating: I use silicone based grease and oil so that the final unit should last longer than any of us. Not only does this make the needle pointer more steady, but makes the unit quieter and puts a much lower load on the drive cable and transmission driven gear, for long lasting service.

I hope this helps to explain the process.
Pat

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But, if you can get your hands on a transmission/ overdrive assembly, it CAN be installed in your car.

I did so on my 39 and worth every busted knuckle, dollar and minute to complete the job.

You will be able to pull the inner wound cable out from the speedometer end. They're designed to be replaceable.

Hey all,
Yes, I (39SixSedanMan, aka Pat) have a speedometer/tachometer repair shop (Bill's Speedometer Shop in Ohio). Too many aliases!

I do not wish to use the forum for advertising; this website and forum are my hobby space and so, I am happy to offer as much advice and assistance as I can here.

Pat

Happy to help. As a general rule, many a needy speedometer have been diagnosed as cable problems. THe owner replaces the cable with a new, strong cable which masks the problem for perhaps a few hundred miles.

Meanwhile, the already aching speedometer is growing worse, possibly damaging delicate components. Soon, the next cable snaps.

Punchline: if you ever notice your needle bouncing, the culprit is usually the speedometer itself. If every squealing, definitely the speedometer and disconnect the cable immediately to avoid more damage.

Pat

For what it's worth, I've found most of the vintage heater motors (Delco, Stewart Warner and several others) are typically repairable and serviceable. They typically contain socketed bushing type bearings with felt oil reservoirs. Light cleaning and thin oil is typically that is needed mechanically. Electrically, I've usually soldered new wiring from the winding to the external connection.

Good Luck.

I'll try to post a photo example of the necessary internal worm lubrication also.

For the 37 and many other years, the decorative outer bezel can be removed by gently unbending the bezel edge (see previously posted photo of area just below the red circled mounting tab). The bezel sandwiches and centers the glass and outer metal mask (behind numbers) in the case of most AC, Stewart Warner, Auto Lite and King Seeley units of the 30's and 40's.

For some units, the next step is to remove the two frame to enclosure screws on the backside of the unit. This will allow you to remove the mechanism without having to disturb the pointer or the small faceplate. This will allow access to the removable worm gears and delicate odometer(s).

Pat

I cant see how you'd be able to do it in the dash. There should be 4 nuts holding it in place (if I recall the 37s correctly. The attached photo highlights the mounting and magnet shaft lube location.
I hope this helps.
Par

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