The article says 1956 Packard taillamps.

How about Pat, Trish, and Ann?????

PackardV8,
"I've refilled my Lexmark #16 black cartridge up to 3hree times before it becomes no longer receptive to refilling. How do i reset the sensor on the cartridge???? I was not aware that any sensor existed to reset.

I do a lot of dumpster diving so i have a good collection of used Lexmark #16 cartridges. But after about the 3-rd time of refilling thay just don't work good. Is that because i didn't know to reset a sensor???"

Earlier printers were not equipped with the necessary electronics to monitor the levels of the ink cartridges. Most printers made within the last several years have sensors built into the cartridges so the printer can monitor the ink levels and display them either on the printer itself, or on a "pop-up" when the user initiates a print job. When the cartridge reaches the empty state, the printer will stop printing until the empty cartridge is replaced with one containing ink. The sensors are not like a fuel gauge float, but are electronic in nature and are "locked" when the tank is empty. Most reliable remanufacturers have the capability to reset the sensor, and there are some devices available on the Internet that will do so as well. Some companies actually circumvented the sensors and counted the number of pages printed, in order to monitor ink levels. This practice resulted in at least one major class action suit which ended up costing that company several hundred million dollars. If you refill your own tanks, I recommend that you try to not let them get past the 1/2 mark before refilling. That way, you will never let the sensor lock out.
As far as your 3 refill problem, I surmise that the quality becomes unacceptable after the third refill. If your cartridge has the built in printhead (i.e. tiny rows of holes on what appears to be a brass or copper strip), the abrasive nature of the ink actually erodes away the precise size of the nozzles and you get a faulty spray pattern. Most respectable remanufacturers will quality test the cartridge before completely refilling it. The company that I have used in the past actually advises that 3 to 5 refills is the usuable life of the cartridge.
John

PackardV8,
I retired almost 3 years ago after spending well over 25 years in the IT world. I took a part time position at a local Office Depot just to keep up with technology and to make a few extra $ to support my Packard. From experience, I can tell you that no manufacturer has an edge over the others on print costs. The bottom line is that pretty much all inks end up costing the consumer about the same per Ml, and pretty close to the same cost per page of print. The only way you can get ahead of the game is to use a laser printer, which generally has a lower cost per copy than inkjet, or purchase cartridges that are either combo packs or bear the XL designation (have more ink in the cartridge than regular ones do). There are some places that refill cartridges, but the electronic sensor needs to be reset as well, so be careful where you go. There are also some bulk ink units available for certain older printers that can substantially reduce your cost per page, but unless you use it on a regular basis, you end up with ink drying out.
My advice is to pick up a used, or inexpensive new, laser printer and use it for the shop.
Just my .02 worth,
John

BTW, we carry a small HP laser that regularly goes on sale for under $100 (sometimes as low as $69), and IIRC, the toner runs about $70 and is good for several hundred pages, at least.

That would be Kevin Smith's DOGMA!!!

Hank,
Glad to see you back in the garage. By the way, that's quite a collection of "wall warts" and plugs that you have there (picture IMG_0658.jpg)! Reminds me of the light switch scene in Christmas Vacation.......

If this wasn't happening before the tune up, then I would seriously consider the replacement parts. My first thought would be to check the point gap and distributor for wobble. If the points are set a tad "wide" the gap will increase as the components heat up and expand, thus possibly causing a miss. You could reinstall the old condenser to see if that is the culprit as well. Also, check the new rotor to see if there is a resistor built in that could be causing the miss. Lastly, I would examine the distributor cap to see if it is cracked or shorting. I have had new caps with faulty "casting" connections that caused internal arcing after the engine heated up.
If you know someone with an older "scope", they should be able to hook it up and see what the spark pattern looks like and pinpoint the location of the miss.
HTH,
John

If the extractor is still brittle, you may be able to shatter it with a few well placed hits using a sharp center punch and hefty hammer.......or possibly drill some smaller holes into the remains of the bolt/stud around the edge of the extractor to loosen it up.
John

if the engine is out of the car, you should be able to find a machine shop with an EDM. They can use it to remove the metal around the extractor and the broken bolt as well. I have no idea what they will charge for this process, but I'll bet it's a lot less than a new motor.
HTH,
John

Many years ago, when I was "turning wrenches" for a living, I found that the most common use for a dial indicator (in the auto repair business) was for checking/setting the backlash for the rear end ring and pinion setup. It can also be used to check for bends in items like pushrods, throttle shafts, etc., but that's usually easier done by rolling them on a piece of glass.
John