Obviously LUBBERS, the lot of ya!!! 'know you're just funnin, but we're talking ocean-going sailboats of size, that don't maneuver in small spaces; a reliable inboard is essential kit!
Chris

Crin,

Agree with Owen_Dyneto that the 'correct' move here is to have your current carb either rebuilt and/or properly adjusted. Just as a side-bar here, I had a carb off a sailboat engine years ago, and it was giving me grief. I found out it was made by Tillitson in Ireland, and Acklands/Grainger carried the parts for them. I went down to the store thinking I would 'know' my carb when I saw it in the book and there were literally dozens of them, all 'looking' identical but all varying by a number or two. They had been spec'ed on everything from chainsaws to snowmobiles, and every one of them had different specifications, delivery rates and applications. AND, of all the units in the guy's book, mine was a 'marine' anomaly and wasn't available!!! Long story short, I ended up phoning the factory in Ireland and the guy told me in a thick Irish accent to 'get it over to him', which I did and received it back completely rebuilt, WITH an extra rebuild kit for future, and NO CHARGE!!! Blew me away - but the moral of the story is just because they look the same....

Quote:
No kidding John!!! If I thought it would help, I'd do a set of dingle balls all the way around with rabbit's feet instead. LOL

Re Leeedy', sorry about the misspell, I'm usually more observant than that! Thanks for your suggestions - I'll keep looking and re Hershey's, let me tell you, THAT is on my bucket list! Long ways away from me, being on the Canadian west coast, but I will make it down there someday, I hope.

And Packards1, thanks - that sounds like what I am looking for, I'll check it out. Chris

Hi Leedy,

Not to hijack this post, but I have been on the lookout for a 'nice' original Packard key fob. Couple of yours look cool - are any for sale? If not, know where I might find? (any of the Ebay stuff seems like cheap repro merch to me; not interested)
Thanks for your time. Chris

Crin,
If it were me, I'd take the NOS piece any day over repro'd gaskets, especially when it comes to a head gasket. Chris

Thank you Mal. Wow, gorgeous car Steve! Very nice chrome.
I scrolled down through the pictures until coming upon the arouseful-blousefull... most distracting!! Chris

Crin,

Couple of things... re the gasket, not sure who would sell just the head gasket, as I see them in rebuild kits but don't know if they'll sell you just the single gasket. Have you checked with the 'regular' suppliers... Kanter's, Max Merritt, etc.???
Also, in reasoning this through, unless the car has been sitting for an extended period without being run, I would think it unlikely that you would suddenly get sticking valves in 3 cylinders?? Plus the 'foam' in the rad would seem to point to a head gasket. Big ENOUGH job, but like you say, I think I'd rather mess with that than having to tie into valve issues. Hope you can get it sorted and get her back on the road and still enjoy some of the summer!

Hey Crin

The specialty machine shop that rebuilt my motor sent me away with instructions to torque the head nuts to 63 FOOT POUNDS. I think I have been doing 65. They even said one torque after the first heat cycle would suffice and it wasn't until a knowledgeable member on here advised me to do it 3 times before installing the motor, a couple of weeks apart, then after 1 heat cycle, then 50 miles then 200 miles. Now Dave is saying 'until they no longer move' and that sounds like very good advice as well. Re you mentioning acorn nuts/washers, those heads would have normally (I believe) come with standard open end nuts, so bottoming out would not be an issue. In wanting to dress my six up a bit I opted for polished stainless acorn nuts. They cam with quite-thick washers (also polished stainless) which definitely lift the nuts up off the head a bit and allow some torque room. Any way you could remove an inner nut and measure what you have for clearance and then bottom a nut out on a bolt in a vise and compare clearances?? Also, very recently, someone posted Packard's torque-pattern sequence for the sixes and the eights - t'would be a good guide to follow, yes/no?? Chris

Hi Crin,
I went through this with my 6 cylinder and it turned out to be the head gasket. I am not a mechanic, but the way you describe the 2 cylinders with bad compression and say you can hear 'puffing' through the carburetor makes me wonder if that is your problem. I did not have oil in my antifreeze or vice versa, but compression was leaking from one cylinder on the compression stroke, through to the cylinder with open valves beside it and back out the intake. When you say there are very few miles on the engine, I would sure think that would be a good place to start. Initially, I thought the head just needed retorqued once, after one heat cycle, but as Dave (Owen_Dyneto) stipulates, the head nuts must be chased until they no longer need torquing. I'm willing to bet there are lots of Packard heads out there that are not at 'max-torque'! Chris

Yeah, congratulations, Steve! How 'bout a couple of pics????