JW, great advise, did you install an adapter to go from 1/8" NPT directly to the fixed oil pressure gauge? Am going to drop the pan hopefully next week to insure that the oil pump screen is clear and that the screen assembly is connected to the pump suction.
Thanks, Bill

Thanks for the diagrams. The filter on my 356 is on the opposite side of the block. Opened and cleaned out the filter canister as it doesn't drain completely. Ran the engine with the top of filter canister off and the filter out. Not like modern cars, as the flow is very low. There are only two small feed holes in the stand pipe in the center of the filter and the feed to the filter itself is teed off the oil sending unit and is only 1/4" tubing.
Bill

I blew out the tube to the sending unit and put a screwdriver in it and it seemed clear. Do you know how far in the capillary tube goes in before it connects to main oiling system? Is there a place to get a diagram of the actual flow of oil through a 356 engine?
Bill

On my 1940-180 the tank is held up by the two straps only. However, had to pry it off the top a bit as the tank was stuck to the upper cradles anti squeak material. By the way, you have to disconnect the fuel line and electrical from the sending unit before dropping the tank. On my tank, the filler neck is part of the tank up to the area of the gas cap where rubber connector secured with hose clamps to the actual filler cap part. Just had to lower the tank with the floor jack and the filler neck pulled out of the rubber connector.

Oil pressure is good once car is running for a while. Do others with 356 engines experience this slow build in oil pressure, (one minute) ? Completely cleaned oil filter and blew out tubing to and from oil sending unit also to filter and return line to block. Changed oil and filter and the oil is amazingly staying almost clear, not dark brownish black like drained oil. Checked bottom pan through the drain hole with a long screwdriver and pan bottom seems clean and screwdriver did not have any sludge on it when removed. So system seems clean and pressure builds to 50 psi when rpm is around 1000-1500. When engine is hot and at idle (500 rpm) oil pressure is just below 40 psi. Could this mean the pump is weak and should be rebuilt? Would appreciate any information.
Thanks

Oil pressure is good once car is running for a while. Do others with 356 engines experience this slow build in oil pressure, (one minute) ? Completely cleaned oil filter and blew out tubing to and from oil sending unit also to filter and return line to block. Changed oil and filter and the oil is amazingly staying almost clear, not dark brownish black like drained oil. Checked bottom pan through the drain hole with a long screwdriver and pan bottom seems clean and screwdriver did not have any sludge on it when removed. So system seems clean and pressure builds to 50 psi when rpm is around 1000-1500. When engine is hot and at idle (500 rpm) oil pressure is just below 40 psi. Could this mean the pump is weak and should be rebuilt? Would appreciate any information.
Thanks

Oil pressure is good once car is running for a while. Do others with 356 engines experience this slow build in oil pressure, (one minute) ? Completely cleaned oil filter and blew out tubing to and from oil sending unit also to filter and return line to block. Changed oil and filter and the oil is amazingly staying almost clear, not dark brownish black like drained oil. Checked bottom pan through the drain hole with a long screwdriver and pan bottom seems clean and screwdriver did not have any sludge on it when removed. So system seems clean and pressure builds to 50 psi when rpm is around 1000-1500. When engine is hot and at idle (500 rpm) oil pressure is just below 40 psi. Could this mean the pump is weak and should be rebuilt? Would appreciate any information.
Thanks

Just did this on my 1940-180. Yes, the floor jack makes it a one man job. Lining up the filler neck with the rubber hose which connects it to filler cap and then pushing on the other side of the tank worked to slide the filler neck up into the hose on the filler cap. The hardest part of this job was cutting off the rusted clamps on the filler neck to get the tank out.

Howard,
Will keep on the look out for a cross reference for Packard radios and the radio mfg, will advise. Familiar with Nostalgia Air as I have large collection of 1930 and 40 wooden console and table top radios.
Bil

Howard, the model of my radio is PA333915. If you can't find the schematic, I could try and send you a picture of the one inside the radio cover if you want.
Bill