This post has probably fallen by the wayside as 'read and handled', and I DID get the brake spring figured out. But, try as I might, I cannot suss the clutch spring. Imploring anyone with a '39 Six to post a pic or two of theirs so I can reattach it properly. Really need your help! Thanks. Chris

Pat, I am presuming you have a 245 CID six. If so, I believe they were pretty much the same for quite a few model years. The hole (on mine, anyway) is on the driver's side beside the starter - about a 1 1/2" opening in the bell housing and there is a needle mounted on the inside. The timing marks are on the flywheel with TDC and about 10 or so degrees advance and retard marked on either side of that. Note: each tick = 2 degrees.

Re the need to be on the compression stroke - I am not sure; somebody that knows more about this than me will weigh in and clarify that, to be sure. Chris

Pat, not sure if your car is the same as mine, but if you have the hole in the bell housing with the needle to point to the timing marks, you should be able to crank the engine to wherever you want to get the pan off and then just go back to TDC when you're ready to put your distributor back in and you should be fine, no???

63 years, WOW, that is really something! Good luck with 'all-things-mechanical' on your inaugural cruise!

Pat, re Mal's tip on possibly raising the engine if the front mount rubber is excessively compressed, (which it probably will be unless it's obvious it has been recently replaced) and you have to raise the front of the engine, I would be careful not to 'overlift' it as the back motor mounts on the tranny are locked down and I wouldn't want to push the envelope on how much twist they would take before separating. Expensive to have redone too. I suppose you would probably hit the firewall with the head before you got too far, but a point worth considering nonetheless. Chris

Thanks to the pictures that Richard (Plugs1) posted, I was able to figure out my Brake return spring 100%. The clutch spring however, is a different matter. Maybe they're different from '39 to '40, but I spent hours trying to anticipate how the spring should be returning the pedal and could not see an obvious solution. I also discovered the clutch linkage was horribly worn with so much play in it, I am surprised I was actually able to effect disengagement. I eventually drilled out the holes and inserted some brass bushing stock and was able to get the assembly working with pretty much zero-play. I am really hoping someone with a '39 will help me out with the two attachment points of the clutch return spring. I did kind of install the spring in a somewhat 'jury rigged' manner, with one end around the actual pedal shaft and then led it back through a bit of a cavity in the body, hooking it to a hole in the frame. It does return the pedal but is obviously not right as when I depress the pedal I can hear it grating and 'pattoinging' on the sheet metal. Can anybody steer me straight here????

Thanks for weighing in Mal; I have to be honest - I don't know how to ascertain if I have a Borg & Beck clutch setup!?!?!?
Richard (Plugs1) - thanks a million for the pics. I will print them and take them with me when I go to the car today. I think by carefully matching up your contact points, I should be able to figure it out. Really appreciate you doing that. Just as a side note, in the last picture you posted, the 'bastard-stud' that I spent all the time on, can be seen. Whoever R&R'd your cross member left the nut off!!! Smart guy! You have no idea the time I spent both removing and then reattaching a lock washer and nut on that stud! I guess with all the attachment points on that support (I think there are about a dozen studs/bolts) it really wouldn't make any difference if it's there or not, but I am so stupid-fussy about stuff like that, I just can't make myself leave it!! LOL Thanks again, man. Chris

Thanks Howard,
Based on what you provided, I am guessing the spring with the longer tails and shorter spring body looks the most like the clutch return?? I got in there with a good light and looked all over and couldn't 'get happy' with hook points. I will check the base of the clutch pedal tomorrow and see if there is a tang at the base like the picture shows. Even if I can find one end on them, the opposite anchor point might become self evident by just feeding the spring back and looking around. So far, I haven't been able to make any obvious deductions. I am hoping someone might post a pick of the setup on their car??

When I was fighting with the cross-member of my '39 last fall, I ended up having to undo the brake/clutch shaft from the frame to be able to get at one nut. The assembly kind of came apart on me and in as much as I had been so careful about bagging and tagging all the parts as they came off, these two springs ended up on the floor and, for the life of me, I cannot figure out how they go back. Two questions: 1) which is for the brake and which is the clutch spring and, 2) can anyone advise me as to where/how they attach?? There is a 'U'-shaped bracket that actuates the clutch and it has a hole in the center, that may be one point of contact, not sure where the other end hooks to, or which springs which. A photo or parts explosion would be extremely helpful. Huge thanks to any willing to help.

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Thanks Guscha and RScott, for your kind comments. MUCH better day today - I got the cross member back out, turned the support bracket for the brake/clutch around and re-installed the cross-member with nary a swear word this morning. It's amazing what a fresh start can do!!! I have a very poor setup for working on the car; it's a tiny shed and I have the car up on stands, wheels off and am doing most of this stuff laying on the concrete looking up at the undercarriage of the car. I envy these guys with hoists!! I donned a headlight today and that helped immeasurably. All bolted up though, and was able to return the engine lift to it's owner and now just have to continue on putting it all back together. Thanks for abiding my ramblings... Couple of pics...

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