Scott-beautiful car, keep those disc wheels on her!
A fellow in the CCCA (Classic Car Club of America) has manufactured a retro-fit distributor plate for the northeast distributor, adapting it to use very inexpensive, readily available points from your local NAPA. No, it isn't original, but at $300 a set (which I have seen with my own eyes) and the relative scarcity of the original points the new plate makes a lot of sense. You would still have your old plate and points should you ever want to put them back.

when the arm of the compensator control box (AKA--brain box, black box, delay switch) is in its center detent nothing should be happening. Nothing, no noise, no clicks. It is a spring-loaded bi-directional switch that is open when at its center detent. With the power on and the adjustible link-arm form the torsion bar disconnected, and you disconnect the orange and blue wires from the control box (the orange and white wires that go to the solenoids, not the limit switches on the leveler gear box) and hold the control lever either side of center (for the period of the time delay, 5-9 seconds)you should hear the relay inside the control box click. That indicates that the time delay and relay for that direction works. It should be sending a ground to the terminal on the solenoid via either the blue or orange wires.
I going to go out on a limb and suggest that you have a compound problem, a fried motor and some kind of control system problem, perhaps the control box. About 20 years ago I fixed a '56 Clipper with a fried motor for a guy. Took the motor off and took it to a good starter/alternator place, they understood what it was and what needed done. One week later we had the car going up and down.
It was music to his ears (at least that's what he said)

have you tried testing for 12V at the motor terminals when the solenoid is grounded?

Did you try to (very, very briefly) touch a "hot" 12V wire to the motor terminals? again, as Randy said do not run the motor for more than a fraction of a second this way--you are defeating the limit switches when you do this Just run te motor long enough to tell that it works, no more.

when you say "I do know the solenoids, stop light switch and toggle switch work" do you mean:

1)when you take a lead hooked to ground and touch the small stud-connector on the front of each solenoid that you can hear/feel it click? and there is no action in the T/L motor?

2) that the stop light switch is sending power to the T/L control switch when you are NOT depressing the brake?

3) which in turn is successfully sending that power to the timing box under the car when the switch is turned on?

Have you tested/inspected the 30 amp AGC fuse in the in-line holder that supplies the motor current to the solenoids? easy to test, just put a test light from ground to the bus bar between the two solenoids

Kev--take those new wheel cylinders apart and clean all of the anticorrosion goo off of the parts inside. Use lacquer thinner on the metal parts, denatured alcohol on the rubber parts. I like to hit the raw wheel cylinder casings with a rattle can of gray or silver paint(or black if thats all that's handy), masking off the inner bore. Put the cylinders back together by coating all of the parts with the fluid that you intend to run the system on--dot 5,4,3 whatever.

Welcome to the forum Stu, looks like a fine Patrician. There are a lot of good minds on board here re: the V-8 Packards and a lot of combined knowledge. I have a lot of pushbutton control and torsion level control system experience and talk a number of people down from the air for the cost of their phone call, or email. We all stick together.

If you decide to go the Sanden compressor route you could use a Mark V unit from classic air under the IP--pretty tidy and it works!

We started this discussion, sort of--last week

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=2501&topic_id=398&#forumpost2501

No, unfortunately I don't. The 1954 system is completely different from the 1955-'56 system. "54 uses a rotary compressor, the manufacturer of which I do not know, even though Dwight Heinmuller told me last week!
I guess step one is to determine what brand of compressor you have.

Here is an outfit that rebuilds the Lehigh V-93 compressor

http://classicautoair.com/factoryford.htm


other then this, the Lehigh company/product is all but invisable on the web. I was once told that those compressors were heavily used in deli type meat refigeration showcases, more so than cars. Other than Packard the only car I am aware of that used these units was Rolls Royce.