Attach file:

---

Louver Springs.pdf Size: 117.02 KB; Hits: 78

Thank you for the information on the numbering system.
That will help Colin.

Success. We have solved the mystery. You will see more panels with this number as you expose them. So now you know your vin number. I believe that all vin numbers in 38 and 39 added 200 to the start. The roster keeps can confirm. Also in 37, all 1 numbers were stamped on the Patent Plate with I. So if both are correct, your patent plate would read

I032-219

Send me a PM and we will trade restoration problems and solutions.

Hope this loads the pics.

Attach file:

---

  (21.85 KB)


  (32.64 KB)

Hi,
This will be a great project. I own a 37 Packard Formal 12 that I am restoring slowly. We will need to connect to exchange restoration information
I want to show you how you can determine the VIN number with 90% certainty. It is hidden from view, but found in a few places besides the VIN Plate (sticker?) on the firewall.
Because you have most of the original upholstery, hopefully it will reveal your answer. When Packard made the senior cars, they had parts made for them throughout the factory and by others. Because they didn't make many formals, they made very few of the parts. When they made the part, they wrote on the back the following. The body number first and then the vin number. Sometimes they would write the body number first and later the vin number. In your case, it would be 320xx. In your and my formal, 32 was for 1032 body number. The last three would be the VIN number without starting at 200.
These numbers were written on the back of seats, door kick panels and door panels. Here are two examples. Let us know what you find.
Craig

Hi,
You say you have tail pipe supports. Can you please check to see if you have one for a 1937 Twelve? It should be straight on the top so it bolts to the rear of the frame and holds the exhaust pipe at an angle at the bottom.

And when will you be arriving to set up?

Thank you,
37Crazy

I had the exact same problem on a brand new exhaust system. I finally got out the hacksaw and cut right through the weld 80% through. I made the cut on the side that needed to close up. If you run feeler gauges around the bolted up flange that leaks (make sure you have both ends bolted), you will see which side is the widest. That is your hinge side (the part you don't cut). I bolted the pipe backup on both ends and measured the new gap. Pulled it out, set the gap and welded it with a MIG. I bolted it up and now no problems with it leaking. The other end is another story.

I don't think anybody can answer the date ranges, but can a 34 dated pan go on a 38. NO.. The 38 and 39 hood was shortened by moving the engine forward over the frame. The pan was redesigned with a depression to clear the frame. So was the oil pump.

Hope that helps.

A Twelve guy!