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Re: 1956 Clipper Custom Engine Paint and Other Questions
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2008/10/28 6:22
From Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 618
On my '55 Caribbean there were a few spots on the engine that needed some paint help. I sent them a bolt to have them match the color and they mixed me up a quart of engine single phase enamel paint. It cost $70 to match the color and then of course the cost of the paint.

Posted on: 9/1 11:58:35
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Marston,  
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Re: 1941 SUN VISOR 120 Sedan
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2008/10/28 6:22
From Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 618
I couldn't agree with you more. A friend, of a friend, of a friend was asking. It turns out the that car is a 120 4 door touring sedan, body # 1492-7119) on the tag if I recall and was sold in Waco Texas.

Posted on: 9/1 11:50:48
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Marston,  
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1941 SUN VISOR 120 Sedan
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2008/10/28 6:22
From Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 618
Was it possible to get sun visors on pre war Packards? Or is there an after market for them?

Posted on: 9/1 9:30:32
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Marston,  
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Re: Steering wheel restoration
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2008/10/28 6:22
From Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 618
I would call a firm (or 2) that restores SW's and ask them what they can do to cure the problem.

Also, there are paints that are formulated for plastics, which I'm assuming would be a little flexible, that might work out OK.

Posted on: 8/28 23:47:49
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Marston,  
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Re: Valve adjustment - 1936 std 8
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2008/10/28 6:22
From Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 618
Re-reading my post, #9, I see that I left the word "COLD" out. The first sentence should read as:

"I would remove both valve covers while the engine IS COLD and check the valve clearances.

Read the rest of #9 for suggestions and info on clearances.

Posted on: 8/3 15:24:03
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Marston,  
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Re: Valve adjustment - 1936 std 8
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2008/10/28 6:22
From Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 618
I would remove both valve covers while the engine and check the valve clearances. Since the gap will close about 0.001 to 0.002 when the engine is hot. This should tell you if there are any major issues. If 5 & 6 don't have any gap you know what your problem may be.

After ensuring that every valve has a ballpark correct clearance, run a compression check. If 5 & 6 are still bad, then you'll need to pull the head and examine their valves & seat. You can use Prussian Blue to get a good feel on how well they should be sealing.

If the compression check is A-OK, fire her up and recheck while running and readjust as necessary.

Good Luck & Keep us posted

Posted on: 7/31 0:30:30
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Marston,  
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Re: fuel delivery? Ignition?
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2008/10/28 6:22
From Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 618
I had a '49 Chevy (around 1962)& I needed to replace the fuel pump. Bought a rebuilt one from Napa. Ran fine up top ~50 mph & it would bog down. Get below 50 and all was well (unless trying to accelerate. Checked everything I could think of (e.g. filter, etc). The cure another rebuilt pump.

On another Chevy (1971) would bog down at ~ 35 mph. Turned out to be a plugged exhaust system.

Posted on: 7/19 15:44:42
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Re: Torsion level wheel alignment
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2008/10/28 6:22
From Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 618
On your radio issue you may want to see my post on "Changing '55 to Negative Ground System" #18. We're completely happy with the install. It is a little costly (~$600 for the radio & Bluetooth option).

No negatives in switching to a negative ground. I haven't the leads on the amp gauge as I don't want the hassle of reaching up there for fear of messing up the wiring.

Posted on: 7/11 7:22:21
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Marston,  
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Ignition Switch on a '55 Caribbean
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2008/10/28 6:22
From Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 618
I'm having issues with the ignition switch. mainly getting the key to turn once it is inserted. I'm thinking this may be the problem. Can the switch cylinder be remove while the lock is installed? Also, how is the cylinder removed?

Posted on: 7/8 8:09:50
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Re: 1936 - standard 8 - spitting up through carb
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2008/10/28 6:22
From Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 618
You can also try Olsons Gasket in Oregon (360) 871-1207.

Posted on: 7/7 7:06:09
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