Just back from an hour's drive. Clutch is grabbing better and better. Almost normal. The engine is so powerful now that it has full throttle and the passing gear works, too.

I did hear some pinging at high revs, so I'm either advanced or retarded (that's not PC what you're thinking).

The Ace hardware had a little chrome cap for a 5/16" hex head. It's embossed. No one will ever see it under the carpet and under the floorboard transmission cover. But I'll keep looking for the original. I'm not pulling all that off until after the show on Sunday.

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We are all in rabid agreement. The vented breather screw goes right rear. The pillars, though they appear to be different heights are all about 1" tall. I have seen that cap and looked for it in the usual places for lost items but haven't found it yet. I know exactly what it looks like and now I know where it goes.

In the meantime the hole is out of the way of the gear oil tsunami, Ross. And in fact we took an actual test run. The clutch slipped a bit up hill, but as long as I don't bathe it in gear oil, it should go away. I parked it over clean paper and had lunch.

I lost a bet to my daughter and now have to take her for her free Starbux. There wasn't a single drop under the car. Thanks everyone.

Now we're ready to polish and then pick up my other SFO granddaughter at the airport tomorrow.

Thanks, Howard.
I have quite a menagerie in there.
The parts book calls for the hexhead screws listed above and lock washers only. Not sure where the copper washers came from. They look original but not listed. Also needed is a cap on the breather screw.
There's a bent metal piece that looks like a place for an ID tag.
As you can see, one of the longer 1-1/2" plain screws (far left) has more thread than needed, so I'll look for one that matches the other, 86 the copper, and look for a hex head breather cap. Put lock washers on all 6. The only pillar positions are the 2 rear and the middle driver's side where the leaky one is, so I'll move the breather to the rear passenger side. I know I could confirm it's the right place if I lift the cover off, gasket isn't leaking, so I don't want to cause any More trouble.

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I'm sure this is painful to watch.

There still was a leak from the transmission this morning, and since I'd tightened everything from the underside and there was a faint trail of oil from above, I decided to pull up the carpet and access the tranny from the top.

Lo and behold, I discovered a nice wet hexscrew with a hole in it holding the transmission cover.

It's obviously the source of oil below.

Why is this the only screw with a hole in the top?

Is it in the correct position on the cover or did I replace it incorrectly? (You know that's what I'm thinking.)

I found an older photo when we pulled the transmission to replace the clutch (which was been slipping due to oil leak). That was the first time I washed the clutch in 2013. That screw was in the same position, so it could have been the source of leaking oil back then. Argh.

Anyway I'm tempted to replace it with a screw that doesn't have a built-in leak hole.

Parts book lists 6 - 5/16-18 x 13/16 hexhead screws
2 - 5/16-18 x 1-1/2 screws
1 - breather screw for column shift cars (1803 included)
But where do they go?

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LEAKS: We set 5-3'x3' sheets of paper under the car to ID drips. We ran the car for an hour to work ing the Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer. The only serious drip after that was from the transmission. 3 plugs were not tight all the way. The gear oil must be able to work its way forward into the bell housing. We think it's under control now. There is a minor leak from the oil pump. And a drop from the pumpkin.

FUEL PUMP: We had a major fuel leak that looked like it was coming from the diaphragm. It was from the threads of the little air dome that needed tightening to stop it. In the meantime, I learned that the fuel pump that fell apart had a lifetime guarantee, so I will be returning it to Kanter.

DISTRIBUTOR: Ken at Auto Battery & Electric installed new bushings and a NOS breaker plate. The distributor had been rebuilt by another local place 3 years ago, but instead of drilling the hole for the grease in correct size bushings, they had installed 2 bushings half the height of the proper ones, to save time I guess. These apparently did not support the shaft sufficiently, so it was wobbly at the tune-up just before the trip to CA last month. Now it's not wobbly.

KICK-DOWN: I took bracket off the firewall, cleaned up the switch and repositioned it according to the manual. It took several tries to get everything right. My daughter Molly is now an expert at removing and replacing the bracket. I now have full throttle And kick-down into passing gear.

CLUTCH: Covered in oil. Once the distributor was in, I propped the clutch open,I marked each section of the clutch and sprayed it, rotated it and sprayed again. I went through 4 cans of brake cleaner before dirty fluid stopped coming out , then replaced the bell housing.

SHOW PREP: So now we just need to wash and vacuum, Lexol the seats, Meguiars show glaze on the body and chrome, and clean the engine for the pre-concours tour through some of Oregon's wine country on Saturday.

So we're in pretty good shape, special thanks to Howard, Dave, David, Feltz.

If you have ArmorAll, spray it on heavy and gently work around the rubber with a wooden skewer or tongue depressor. Easy does it or you'll have to buy a new one from Steele Rubber. That's your backup. The one in there is pre-war real rubber most likely.

I will ask John about the wood pieces. I didn't detach the rear piece with the copper washings from the bell housing.

There was so much oil under there, and it's far foward, from the fuel pump and the oil canister back to the overdrive, so I think it's multiple leaks.

There was no loss of oil on the entire trip down, but maybe a 1/2 quart on the 600 miles home. And the loss of brake fluid was high. That went somewhere. New Master and stoplight switch and fittings. So just have to chase each one down quickly. Thanks, Howard and David.

I would expect threads in the boy for fine-thread machine screws and tiny lock washers. Maybe check the Owner Registry for someone with your year and PM them the question.

Thanks, Don.

The last time I did this was http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... SC&type=&mode=0&start=414

The next post, 415, has a video. You can hear me breathing because the first time I didn't use an industrial mask or have the garage doors open. Big mistake.

But I want to get everything clean before I start sleuthing with my paper. And of course the clutch will slip as it did during the last part of my journey home, so it must be cleaned first.

QUESTION: Has anyone used Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak? Or their Oil Stop Leak?