Disclaimer: I'm not qualified. I've made every mistake. I'm learning, BUT

1. I set up my firing order and distributor according the the visual in the manual. I had no idea why the car wouldn't run. Turns out the manual shows the firing order positions on the distributor Clockwise. The engine turns Counterclockwise. On my 356 Super 8, the No. 1 cylinder/spark plug position is at around 7 o'oclk on the distributor and the rotor proceeds counterclockwise.

2. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but since in every two revolutions of the engine, only one has the No. 1 cylinder at TDC, I determined the position by taking out the No. 1 spark plug, sticking a piece of tape on the fan blade to keep track of one revolution, sticking a piece of doweling in the hole, marking the depth, and turning the engine (I think I did it by the fan blade, but may have hit the starter button with the key off) until the tape came up again for one revolution, then measured the depth with the doweling again. The intake valve is under the spark plug hole, so when the intake valve is closed for the compression, the dowel goes deeper. The deeper measurement identifies the compression stroke and your at TDC.
I'm probably missing some key info here, but that's what I did.

3. My engine quit under load (going up hill) on acceleration because the floats in the carb were not set correctly and I couldn't imagine that being the problem because one of the very best carb rebuilders in the country had just rebuilt it. They fixed it.

4. The distributor is secured by 2 cap screws, the rearward one on the right is kind of hidden by the grease cup. If that isn't tight, when the vacuum advance tugs at the distributor plate, it won't have the desired effect.

Just trying to think of other stupid things I've done.

5. The slit at the bottom of the distributor shaft connects with the oil pump. If the oil pump was removed and replaced, the rotating seat at the bottom could be 180 degrees off. If so, the engine will run Very rough, but that doesn't sound like your problem.

You can try my homie ways, but the best advice is to follow Ross' video step by step.

I have pix of the above if needed for understanding.

You might check with David Flack, David Moe, John Ulrich for one to restore.
Keep checking eBay.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-532 ... tion+Model+Pa+By+C.m+Hall

https://www.ebay.com/itm/113791880459

Otherwise there are reproductions from the usual suspects.

I chickened out. I'm shipping the car by Passport Transport from Portland to Maryland. Moving creates just too many things to deal with. I'm having a couple of transmission issues that will need addressing when I get settled. Plus the co-vid. Shipping is about half the cost of driving given hotel, meals, and gas for a 3,000 mi trip. But I'm still tempted. I'll be looking for some long drives and tours once I'm on the East Coast.

Thanks, everyone, for egging me on. I appreciate the support had I decided to just go.

The springs did not address the sag on my. door handles. Did the new springs eliminate sag on the front ones?

You could check the parts book and see if the latches are the same, like if the parts count is 4 or only 2, as in 2 for front and 2 for back.

Post a picture of your backdoor latch. I'll see if I can find some photos. Mine were taken apart and new handle guides installed. Still didn't solve the sag btw.

Whoever wrote the Packards International Judging Guide would know for sure. I understand it's difficult to write descriptions that are not ambiguous. A photograph would have been far better to have in the judging guide.

But there are plenty of experts here. There may even be a few original 1940s with dry air cleaners. The guys who judge cars for national shows for PI and PAC, AACA, CCCA, the A&P and the FBI should know.

Again, a picture is worth a thousand words. Much better than attempting to write a description that requires a patent attorney.

Thanks, BDC. I was thinking of taking the Lincoln Hwy or Route 66. But now, with all the issues of moving, I'm thinking I'll ship the car. The hobby will have a lot of East Coast activity next year and then there's the Henry Joy tour, Hershey, Amelia Island. I'll have plenty of driving opportunities.

If I drove from here it would be the first week of October. I'm packing and it's not a lot of fun.

The only time I shipped the car was in the early '80s up from California. Red somebody was the trucker. I think he mainly ran north and south on I-5.

I had a very informative conversation with Paul Gilger who was the tour guide for the Lincoln Highway Convoy Tour in 2019. With the issues he raised especially cross the Rockies, Nevada and Utah, no cell coverage and possible hours between passing cars, I questioned taking this trip alone and with only one vehicle.

Another friend brought up all the issues with Co-vid I'd have to deal with...motel rooms, food, etc. My age and other conditions would mean a 1-way trip to the ER if I caught it.

So now I'm thinking about shipping the Duchess from Portland OR to Potomac MD. Any recommendations on a reliable company or method? I have a POD of my furnishings leaving on July 7.

Check the Steele Rubber online catalog.
https://www.steelerubber.com/search?ye ... &style=2-door-convertible

If it's a dry air cleaner, it goes "on the air cleaner facing the right side of the car."

A picture is worth a thousand words.

On '33-'36 senior cars with a dry air cleaner, the right edge of the decal was placed near the center of the middle section of the air cleaner facing the front of the car.

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1940-1947 with oil bath air cleaner.
"Top of air cleaner, left side, center of decal on screw center, nearly touching beveled edge. "

Here are a couple of interpretations of the above official engine compartment judging details, which are confusing. How do you place a decal on "top" AND on the "left side?" One picture would have been worth a thousand words.

All 3 engine compartments including my own, show evidence of an intent to place the decal correctly. I like it on the side wall of the air cleaner lid of the silver car, but this same engine has the oil filter decal on the side wall of the oil filter, which is incorrect. It should be on the lid of the oil filter.

Unfortunately the modern reproductions for the oil filter are a clear plastic label which will not flatten on the lid like the previous reproductions which were decals. The new labels work on the side wall, but not on the specified location on the lid.

Since the rules are not clear for placement and no photo is provided, I'd say no one should be docked for having it in either of these two positions.

I put mine on the left side of the top of the air cleaner lid (#3) as did the owner of the yellow car. The owner of the silver car placed it on the left side wall of the lid, which one could consider as the top of the air cleaner.

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