Try pages 34-37 of the 140 160-180 Owners Manual in the literature archive.

Steve,
Howard covered it. Take it step by step and you’ll be in over drive.

The Studebaker-Packard museum has blueprints that Bruce might not have. You need part numbers. They will do a search for a fee.
E-mail abeckman@studebakermuseum.org Andrew Beckman (last contacted in 2018). Very helpful.

I’m sure all the above is true, however, my experience 15 years ago was contacting the PPG industrial finishes research dept and giving them the name and formula from my Ditzler paint chip for 1940 Black Hawk Gray. PPG bought Ditzler. They mixed the color using Envirobase, a water soluble paint to go over bonding metal primer and covered by clear urethane. The metallic for this color was finer and reduced in keeping with the original. The caveat is, the paint shop has to order the finish from an authorized PPG distributor with the formula proprietary.

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Packard’s International put out a judging guide specifying finishes for the engine compartment, etc. it would be great if they donated at least the parts they’ve done (mine is incomplete) to have it online. I think BigKev would have to ask first, esp if they finished it and still sell it.

Nice going, Kevin. Your car looks terrific.

I think Howard means me. Here was my post.

As others have said, the cooling system will work as designed. For parades and traffic jams in very hot weather, I installed a 6v fan. There are fans advertised as 6v, but they are 12v. They run, but not as they should. Mine is a Maradyne Electric Radiator Cooling Fan with a 6v 40amp Relay for fan control, plus an override switch to shut the fan off on a warm day and many stops, so the battery doesn't run down.
MP-166-K6 Radiator Fan 6v $155.
MFA104 Fan Mounting Kit 45.
LAW 89105 20 amp circuit breaker 16.50
COL 3031 Inline fuse holder 14.
BUSS AGC10 fuse 2.50
HAY 3653 Thermostatic adjustable fan control 55.
GM 12513020 seal material 30.

It’s here.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... ic_id=5878&order=ASC&status=&mode=0
Post 414-maybe 418. The video is gone, but there are pictures.

Yes, as OD suggests, oil from a leaky rear main seal can get on the clutch. My ‘40 has a ‘47 356 that had the same problem. I removed the clutch cover, braced the clutch pedal down with a block of wood, then got under and and sprayed brake cleaner between clutch and flywheel. That cleaned enough to drive from Portland to San Francisco. I sprayed it again to get back , the the shop packed in a new rear main seal. I think I covered this issue in the Duchess Project blog. Just wear a professional mask when you spray that stuff under the car.

My ‘40 column is taupe, dark gray brown