Is the door striker assembly interchangable between years?
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Just can't stay away
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Hello everybody,
I have a 1955 400 with a broken door striker assembly on the passenger side. The nylon insert is cracked and the metal corner piece that keeps the nylon piece in place broke off. The parts book lists different part numbers for 55 and 56. Group 30.341. Was the 56 striker assembly an improved part over the 55 and will a 56 striker work on a 55? From pictures I've seen, the 56 design eliminated the nylon teeth that catch the door. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Brian
Posted on: 2019/5/14 16:08
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Re: Rear Stabilizer Rod Eye Bushing Replacement
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Graphite...good idea. I have some that I use on my door locks. Thank you. Thanks everyone for helping me with this repair. I can't wait to see if this repair makes any difference in the ride and handling. It will definitely get rid of the rattle. One set of the inner bushings was completely gone, metal on metal. Next job is the axle seals and pinion seal. Thank you all again.
Brian
Posted on: 2018/2/4 13:56
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Re: Rear Stabilizer Rod Eye Bushing Replacement
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Thank you Owen for that simple yet effective repair. I was way overthinking this whole thing and your solution made me think, "Why didn't I think of that?" The ole K.I.S.S "Keep It Simple" rule strikes again. I purchased my bushings from Max Merritt. Not sure of their composition. Should I grease the bushings with a thin film of chassis lube inside and out during assembly to avoid squeaks or will that only collect dirt and lead to an early demise?
Brian
Posted on: 2018/2/2 19:19
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Rear Stabilizer Rod Eye Bushing Replacement
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Hello everyone,
I need to replace the rear stabilizer rod eye bushings (Group 13.11648 p/n 445340) on my '55 400. The outboard ones are simple, it's the inboard ones that have me scratching my head. Once I have removed the pins that go through the rod eye and install new bushings, what would I use to replace the pins that will be destroyed during removal? The clearances are to tight for nut and bolt substitutions. Is welding an option or will the heat generated from welding melt the new bushings and what about the next time the bushings need replacing? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Brian
Posted on: 2018/2/2 14:31
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Re: 55 Patrician Conked Out While Idling, Won't Start
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I played your you tube video several times and it sounds more like a fuel issue than ignition. Since no black smoke was coming out the tail pipes it didn't flood like when floats sink and flood the engine, stalling it. It's possible your needle and seat on the primary float are stuck in the closed position, not allowing fuel to enter the float chamber. Once the engine burned the fuel in the float bowls it stumbled and stalled. Look down the carb and pump the linkage a couple times. Is gas squirting into the carb? If not, first try tapping the top of the carb where the fuel line connects to it. This will usually unstick the needle and seat valve and allow fuel to enter the float bowl chamber. Crank the engine a few times and if it starts, great. If not, recheck to see if gas is squirting into the carb. If not squirting, disconnect the fuel line at the fuel filter and have someone crank the engine while you hold a soda can to capture the fuel coming out the line. If fuel comes out the fuel line but isn't squirting in the carb then you need to do more than tap the carb. NO, don't tap harder, take the car to the mechanics as suggested earlier. Beautiful car by the way.
Posted on: 2017/3/11 21:00
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Re: Battery replacement
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Sorry, no update yet. This spring when I do replace the battery and make it look 1955, I will update this post.
Posted on: 2017/2/27 0:20
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Re: Oil filter canister lines
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Thanks for that information Howard. Something I forgot to mention was that I performed an oil pressure test with and with out the restricted fitting and there was no change in pressure. I took the reading by removing the oil pressure sending unit and installed a gauge. Both readings were 48 at idle and 60 at high RPM. I have the Oldsmobile oil pump installed. I think I will bend some new lines and remove the restrictive fitting. If I blow the gaskets on the filter housing I will put the restricted fitting back in. Thank you again. Brian
Posted on: 2016/11/7 17:47
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Oil filter canister lines
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Just can't stay away
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Hello Everyone,
A while back I noticed my lines to and from the oil filter canister are reversed. The supply line runs from the cylinder head to the bottom of the canister and the return line runs from the top of the canister to the fitting next to the oil filler tube. This current set up means the oil filter is filtering the oil from the inside out. Probably not very efficient. My real concern about this setup is that when you shut down the engine and the oil drains back into the engine it back flushes the filter back into the engine. Not good. I am going to bend some new lines to get the oil flowing in the right direction. One of the 90 degree fittings on the filter housing has a restriction built in. Is this restriction necessary or was it someone's attempt to create more back pressure and stop the oil starvation Packard was dealing with or is it to reduce the pressure in the filter canister? As you can see, this restriction really cuts down on the amount of oil flowing into the filter. Attach file: (9.64 KB)
Posted on: 2016/11/7 15:32
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Re: Battery replacement
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I researched those designer batteries and they are almost 3 times as much as a standard battery. I have a hard time justifying that money so I will go with a Napa battery and put the savings towards the battery covers. I found one web sight, "Tar Topper" but they don't have one that will fit a group 60 or 64 battery. I will try and contact Gary Osko for the covers and Kanters for the hold down. Thanks again everyone. Brian
Posted on: 2016/11/5 15:55
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