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Apology
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2013/6/15 12:16
From Torrance, Ca
Posts: 61
I bet you don't see that title. but

A few months back, I was contacted via this site for information
about my conversion to disc brakes.. I had not been in a great mood
and I had asked the Man to contact me directly so I did not have to
long into this site.. When he again contacted me through here
I told him to not contact me again...
That was not polite and was very rude. I want to Apologize to the
gentleman.

If he still needs assistance and can forgive me, I would be more
then happy to assist if I can.
I know that is lives in the Santa Monica area, and I live in Torrance..
Again I hope you will forgive me and except my Apology

Posted on: 5/26 21:25:20
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Reverse Lens
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2013/6/15 12:16
From Torrance, Ca
Posts: 61
Hi all
Been awhile since I've been on here..
But as I'm looking at finishing my upgrade to my 56 (the 400)
I remember seeing a add for New repos of the reverse light lens
but I could not find any info on the net about it.
Does anyone ever remember seeing such an add?
This is the lower clear plastic lens...
Best
Dave

Posted on: 5/26 21:03:40
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Re: Torsion Level Suspension 1956 400
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2013/6/15 12:16
From Torrance, Ca
Posts: 61
Hi Steve.
Girimes is a good source.
but when you say not working, what do you mean?
They system is touchy since its mostly electrical
and the wiring is now agent.
I'd take it to a automotive electrical shop first
have the motor checked, then the switch.. both sit inside the
X box frame. Not likely that the torsion bars came lose or broke
but even the electrical service can tell...
and don't forget the switch under the dash... old, I'd replace it
All the best

Posted on: 3/15 4:42:48
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Re: Monroe steering
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2013/6/15 12:16
From Torrance, Ca
Posts: 61
Thanks for the assist
Best

Posted on: 2017/11/6 17:05
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Monroe steering
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2013/6/15 12:16
From Torrance, Ca
Posts: 61
Hello All

Does anyone have a source for the dust boots for the slave cylinder
on the 56 Packard? Also the end grommet

Best

Posted on: 2017/11/6 9:00
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Re: Disc brake install
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2013/6/15 12:16
From Torrance, Ca
Posts: 61
Hello All
OK, here it goes. It's the best I could do, to give the most info and make
it a little easier for others.
Installing Ford Front Disc brakes on a 1956 Packard, Senior
I just finished the “Paul’s” install of Ford disc brakes on my 1956 The 400.

Let me start with the parts list first
1. The spindle from a 1972 - 1979 Ford F100\F150
2. The (Splash shield) and bolts.
3. From Ebay buy a pair of Front rotor (get one for a
1973 Galaxie 500. they are 5 x 5” where the Truck would be
5 x 5.5”
4 Off Ebay Timken bearings, set 12, set 13, and seals #6815 Timken, National
5. Calipers, pads, and assorted mounting brackets, spindle dust caps
6 King Pin set (Moog)
All these can be bought on Ebay although I did buy the calipers and pads
at a local parts store
7 If you are planning to replace the spindle lock nut kit, don’t use a
Doman #05919 not the correct one…


This is what makes this a good way to install Disc Brakes, all parts
right off the shelf.

You will need have some machine work done
The machine shop will slightly enlarge the bore in the steering knuckle
the will also install new bushing, and make sure they cut a new key way
What I did was install the King Pin, then screwed in the end caps,
then I took a punch and put it in the locking keep hole and hit it pretty
hard. When I pulled the pin out there was a very faint mark on the Pin
I put the edge of a piece of tape at that mark and wrapped it around
the Pin. Next I took a eye view of the the mark and the whole to make sure
the width of the cut.
My machinist forgot to do this part, so I did that at home
Now for the suspension. As we know that Torsion bar is dangerous
and since not many of us has the Packard tool I devised my own method
of keeping the torsion arm in place
I had the car jacked up about 18” at the bumper. I then took two
jack stands and placed on either side of the lower A arm. I then took a
1” galvanized pipe and placed it under the Torsion arm held up by the jack stands I then lowered the. (I would use a schedule 80 black pipe, about 20” long)
car, this cause the arm to stay in place and the A arm come free.
The rest was just removing the steering Knuckle, I did it with the
drum in place as I could not move the locking pin. I undid the upper
bolt first, that allowed the knuckle to be brought our and down onto the
floor. Then I undid the lower bolt. The A arm is held by 4 bolts on the
cross member.. watch out when you take them out, and keep them right there.
The upper control arm is ver easy.
If you decide to do this, you will probably want to clean the lower and upper
control arm, just make sure that you install the lower control arm on the
correct side of the car, they look the same but are different. It took me about 3 hrs for the removal and install.
If I did not mention this, I had a spare Packard 400 and I dismantled it
so I took the upper and lower control arms and cleaned, acid washed
primed and painted all those parts. Those are now on my car.

Pictures
1. is the Sway bar, the 2 support brackets, the 2 clips that hold the rubber
bushing to the lower A arm and a splash shield.
2. Is the left front spindle from the 79 F150 with the Packard steering knuckle
attached.
3 The drop light gives a good view of the 2 jack stands, with the 1” pipe
holding up the Torsion arm, and that (mid) piece has fallen away.
4. Shows the Packard drum laying out from the car. still attached on the
bottom to the steering knuckle
5. is the lower control arm, with the jack stands and the 1” pipe
6. Is looking through the upper control arm opening. shows the shock
mount
7. The upper control arm laying on some cardboard
8. The spindle mounted to the upper and lower control arms
the the jack stands are not supporting the Torsion arm now.
9. Splash shield mounted
10. Rotor installed
11 Caliper and pads installed

Addendum:
The upper control Arm Bolt head is 1”
the nut is also 1”
The locking bolt head is 5\8
These are fully threaded as is the steering knuckle
The lower bolt head is 1 1\4”
the nut is 1 1\8”
The lower control Arm to cross member is 11\16 both head and nut.
Rotor studs are 1\2” 20 same as Packard

the splash guard bolts are 1\2 heads

Total cost for me,
spindle $50
Machine work $325.00
New King Pin set (moog) $67
Pads (wagner Z50) $18
Calipers $25
Bearings (Timken) $30
Wheel bearing seal $7.00
New spindle lock nut kit $15.00

and about 7 hrs labor (Mine)

I'm going to place pictures in another post...there is about 10 or so

Attach file:



jpg  IMG_3774.JPG (505.16 KB)
11385_599d90df83bbf.jpg 2048X1536 px

Posted on: 2017/8/23 7:28
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Re: Disc brake install
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2013/6/15 12:16
From Torrance, Ca
Posts: 61
I wonder if I could impose on at least one of you Packard men
to check my search for compatible parts for the Disc brake conversion

I'll be posting my pictures and information tomorrow. This is just to
help others

The biggest problem with this conversion is the Rotor. the F150
is a 5 x 5.5 bolt pattern. The Packard is 5 x 5.

Now using Timken wheel bearing, the outer are Set 12, Inner set 13.

I found that a few Ford cars used the same Timken sets, and are also
5 x 5 bolt pattern.

If we can lock this down, then we don't have to go through either
drilling new bolt pattern or going with wheel adapters... I don't like
either of those choice.

I found that of the Fords that use both the inner and outer Timken
are the 1973 Ford Galaxie 500..
75 Ford Thunderbird
and about 80 others, that show but if you can at least confirm that
the Galaxy is a 5x5 and uses both of the Timken bearing set, then we
have it made...
If you could email me direct at
Sanddoc@gmail.com
I've made a mistake when I thought the 79 Continental was a match...
(Note)
Thanks..

Posted on: 2017/8/15 13:01
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Disc brake install
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2013/6/15 12:16
From Torrance, Ca
Posts: 61
Hello

I just finished my install of Ford Disc brakes on my 56. This is
what Paul did, but I have not found any detailed info. If anyone is
interested, I would post what I did, the parts needed and
and cost.
Also I do have a few pictures if I can upload them..
Let me know if you think it's worth the time.
Best

thanks for your reply and interest
I was going to post the the pictures and "article" today
but decided to wait until I have some paint work finished
I'm only going to show the driver side when I do post this.
which should be by Wednesday the 16.
Again thanks

Posted on: 2017/8/11 17:54
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Re: Fender skirts
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2013/6/15 12:16
From Torrance, Ca
Posts: 61
OK
Thanks guys...

I thought it was black, while I was doing some sanding I did not
see any "Heather" color

The skirts I pulled all the staples.. I'll check out other site
for the fabric..

Posted on: 2017/7/20 14:31
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Fender skirts
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2013/6/15 12:16
From Torrance, Ca
Posts: 61
Hi All

On the 56 400, what was used between the body and the skirt
for cushioning?
What is being used now and what method of attaching to the skirt is
used.

Also when I first bought my car, it had been painted all black, yes
even the engine compartment in most places but not all. My question
is what color was the sheet metal pan covering the space between
the radiator and the grill, same a the body or black?

thanks

Posted on: 2017/7/20 9:53
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