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Board index » All Posts (joedags)




Packard clock faceplate
#1
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Joe D'Agostino
I am having my Packard clock repaired for the 8th time and am seriously thinking of having it converted to quartz but my question involves the color of the faceplate. Please see the pictures attached.
The clock has a gold faceplate with a minute hand that has a platinum center but the rest of the instrument cluster is all in platinum.

Can anyone tell me if this is incorrect?

Would Packard have shipped the factory clock with a gold faceplate when the other parts of the instruments were platinum?
I would think that everything would have been platinum from the factory and my guess is that the clock was replaced along the way with another clock that had the gold faceplate but retained the original platinum minute hand.

Now that the clock is out of the car (for the 8th or 10th time), I would like to get the right faceplate to match the original.

How can I determine what it looked like originally?

This is the 1949 Deluxe Club Sedan #2301.

Thank you

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jpg  Packard clock faceplate.jpg (35.38 KB)
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jpg  Packard instrument cluster.jpg (41.78 KB)
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Posted on: 2023/10/15 19:55
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Re: 6 volt battery
#2
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Joe D'Agostino
Did you jump your car from another 6 volt car? Or a 12 volt car? I thought we could damage components when jumping from 12 volts?

Posted on: 2020/7/21 20:46
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Re: Oil pressure and mult-viscosity oil.
#3
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Joe D'Agostino
Packard oil suggestion

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Posted on: 2019/11/18 22:24
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Re: Oil pressure and mult-viscosity oil.
#4
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Joe D'Agostino
Please note that Packard originally recommended 20 W oil for our cars. Please see the picture here.
If the engine is in reasonably good shape, it would be best to stay as close to the original viscosity as possible.

When the engine is hot, the oil flows best to all the components. So many experts recommend to stay as close to the viscosity at full temperature as the original oil.
It is oil flow (movement) that gives the best lubrication.
See the graph here that shows viscosity comparisons of straight weight oil to multi-viscosity.

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Posted on: 2019/11/18 22:22
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Re: Change of radiator core affecting cooling performance in 1949, 23rd series
#5
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Joe D'Agostino
I was able to get the alternator built into a generator housing so that I don't lose the look of the original equipment but now at idle, I get excellent charging. I am maintaining 7 to 8 volts on the battery at idle even with the headlights on high beam.
The pusher fan works much, much better than before since it is getting plenty of juice at idle.
The lights no longer dim at idle.
The company (Gener-nator) also built me a delco-remy look alike voltage regulator to mount on the firewall to keep the original look (even though the voltage regulation is actually being done inside the alternator).

I realize that I have moved away from the original car circuitry which was a difficult decision but for safety and other performance reasons, I believe it was a good decision.

Pictures are listed here

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Posted on: 2019/9/23 20:49
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Re: Change of radiator core affecting cooling performance in 1949, 23rd series
#6
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Joe D'Agostino
David,

That is quite an extensive analysis that you put together. Thank you!

I still have yet to read it all in detail but it looks rather thorough.

As for the results with the 6 volt pusher fan. I am getting good results. If the car heats up at idle, the 6 volt fan holds the temperature and the temperature creep does stop when it is on. (No increase in temperature once I turn it on)

The only challenge is that the 6 volt fan does not run very fast at idle since the generator is not putting out much current and I am mostly drawing down the battery (since RPMs are low). I can alleviate this somewhat by increasing engine speed in neutral.

I am looking seriously at having the generator converted to an alternator (but still keep the generator housing) so that I can still deliver 20 to 30 amps at idle and have the pusher fan run fast.

A few companies offer this option for older cars.

I need the fan to run fast at idle and the alternator seems to be a good solution for this. Of course, I want to keep the car looking as original as I can so the generator housing and voltage regulator housing will stay there in appearance but will be functioning differently.

Posted on: 2019/8/7 20:47
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Re: Change of radiator core affecting cooling performance in 1949, 23rd series
#7
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Just can't stay away

Joe D'Agostino
JW,

You are right. I think I may have found an older Packard 5 blade fan from an early 50's car that had A/C. The supplier told me that the bolt hole spacing is correct but the hub center hole is smaller than what I need. So I am going to try to have the machine shop open up the center hole in that fan and it should not hit the bolt holes.
The machine shop claims that they can open up the center hole and not lose the balance of the fan.

Posted on: 2019/8/3 6:20
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Re: Change of radiator core affecting cooling performance in 1949, 23rd series
#8
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Just can't stay away

Joe D'Agostino
Thank you.

I have had the engine rebuilt, new water distribution tube, new radiator, new water pump, new (and correct) 160 deg thermostat, new (and correct) exhaust system, distributor tested and fixed, vacuum advance fixed, etc.

So I should be very close to solving it.

Posted on: 2019/8/2 10:52
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Re: Change of radiator core affecting cooling performance in 1949, 23rd series
#9
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Just can't stay away

Joe D'Agostino
I realize that this is an older post but I want to work to complete the story. After many discussions with experienced radiator people, I am coming to the conclusion that the differences in the radiator are not as significant as I thought and that since the problem mostly seems to be at idle, better air flow at idle seems like it will help.
So I have decided to go with a larger fan and then retrofit a shroud to capture as much of the radiator into the airstream at idle as I can. I will report back once I have the fan and shroud fitted
I am going to try to have the local machine shop modify a 6 blade fan shown here in the picture by opening up the 5/8 inch center hole to fit on the water pump hub (which is 1 ? inches).
We cannot use an adaptor because the fan cannot be moved any closer to the radiator so it seems one solution is to try to have the fan mount directly on the existing hub.

Here is one very good comment from one of the experienced radiator experts on differences between the original radiator and the new one:

I too would have made the radiator in the flat fin design with a larger (more elliptical tube) in a staggered pattern. I would have suggested a fin density to 10 or even 11 fins per vertical inch.
PS: Measuring 11fpi in a serpentine core is not quite the same as 10 or 11 fpi in a flat tube and fin. Flat tube and fin core have holes that are punched and then flared. The flaring provides substantially more contact area between the tube wall and the fin that the serpentine where contact is the radius at the apex of the v shape. The serpentine has far less labor involved in the construction which is why it is so prevalent. It also has a shorter life as fins can separate from the v vs the flat tube where the fin is "press fit" into the hole
.

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Posted on: 2019/7/30 20:27
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Re: Bushings for Brake and Clutch pedals on 23rd series
#10
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Joe D'Agostino
Great inputs everyone! Thank you

Posted on: 2019/7/9 19:22
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