Painters paint. Electrical techs wire. Wires were in the way of painting.
Plumbers work the same way, plumbers plumb. If there is a wall in the way of the pipes they need to replace, they take out a hammer and bash the wall open. Won’t ask if you want to cover furniture, just start bashing.

I would be concerned that the shop will not answer calls/emails.
The Torsion-Level system is fairly simple, from an electrical standpoint. Like everything else on the car, unless you have replaced the wiring harnesses you are relying on 63 year-old wiring.
The most essential thing for any shop to know is that the timing box send a GROUND to the solenoid, the pull-in coils are fed +12VDC internally, they are looking for a ground to activate.
You want a shop that is willing to study the wiring diagram, and accept and deal with the system the way it is made, not one that spends your money adapting it and dumbing it down to what they understand already.

The Lincoln K series engine and chassis are neck and neck with Packard in my humble opinion. The are both downdraft, which makes them better than the Cadillac V-12 and V-16, at least to me. Very torquey, smooth engines, and the whole car is turned out beautifully.

We made these from the original blueprints, with the standard head size/detail, and with a larger head for rod caps that are damaged and need a new mating surface machined. American made!

https://www.classicandexotic.com/store ... -connecting-rod-bolt.aspx


https://www.classicandexotic.com/store ... rod-bolt-larger-head.aspx

Very high VN 5682-4666, would have been built in the last week of production. These are usually great cars, a lot of V8 problems were in the rear view mirror by now.


http://www.hessauctiongroup.com/auctions/76392/

We sure do eat well!

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Well, scratch that.

I'll be at Hershey next week, and will no doubt visit the PI tent. I'll ask about the book for you. It is an excellent thing for all clubs to do.

The threaded fittings can just stay in place, you loosen the two mounting bands that hold the body of the filter to the engine, then place a screwdriver into a slot at the bottom (or wherever the user orients the housing) and put a slight amount of pressure on the end with the fittings and the can comes off. It's held in place by an O-ring that press fits the filter end into the empty canister. Just a press fit.

Quote:

Well, you only have to buy this once, then the replacement cartridges are $6 each.

It's made in the USA, by real wage earning Americans, not Chinese labor. There are no more originals to be had, and if one is discovered NOS it can cost this much and be of dubious quality/liquid tight capability.

Let's put it this way-my boss isn't getting rich off of making this.