He was correct. In the end, being a lone wolf is what did Packard in. Without other brands at various price points Packard was like other independents, a sitting duck.

Keep all the column shifter parts, the next owner will probably want to put that all back.

Those are from the Saginaw MI dealership, not the company itself.

Very, very good. This should be part of any engine rebuild. People rebuild an engine down to the the half-thousandth on everything, but don't rebuild these items. They are as worn out as the engine is! (cue analogy of showering and putting your stanky underwear back on).

May he rest in Peace. Certainly a storied Detroit name.

In terms of the contact leafs breaking off of the back of the switch consoles, I have been just replacing the whole unit, and rewiring the unit while I'm at it. I should get back on the micro switch replacement unit I was thinking about. It seemed like the need wasn't there at the time, only a few instances. But I've replaced two units in the past month. Might be time to do this now.

Mr. Pushbutton (John Lauter) weighing in, late. We have spoken in the past few days. I don't sell parts individually, based on past experience. I only do complete rebuilds/restorations/upgrades, and yes, I am actively doing them, more than ever. Everything in these units is 63 years old, the wiring is all going south (insulation) and they have all been monkeyed with by the unknowing.
Lubrication is a big thing: these were last lubricated at the AutoLite factory in 1956. There is a bronze bushing in the cap end of the motor with an oil wick, every one I encounter is dead dry. The thrust bearing is corroded together in half the units I disassemble. This adds additional drag/load on the motor, which adds unnecessary electrical load to the car, adding to the "unreliable" stories. This past year I have had the motor brush holders replicated in laser cut brass, and the special set screws in the actuator. I have begun having all steel pieces plated, which adds to the "newness" of the finished product.
Anyone seeking my services may reach me at 56packman@gmail.com

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Contact the gift shop at the Studebaker Museum in South Bend, give them your vehicle numbers and $45 each and they will send you your build sheet and shipping manifest.

Painters paint. Electrical techs wire. Wires were in the way of painting.
Plumbers work the same way, plumbers plumb. If there is a wall in the way of the pipes they need to replace, they take out a hammer and bash the wall open. Won’t ask if you want to cover furniture, just start bashing.

I would be concerned that the shop will not answer calls/emails.
The Torsion-Level system is fairly simple, from an electrical standpoint. Like everything else on the car, unless you have replaced the wiring harnesses you are relying on 63 year-old wiring.
The most essential thing for any shop to know is that the timing box send a GROUND to the solenoid, the pull-in coils are fed +12VDC internally, they are looking for a ground to activate.
You want a shop that is willing to study the wiring diagram, and accept and deal with the system the way it is made, not one that spends your money adapting it and dumbing it down to what they understand already.