Pgh ...
A friend of mine met Bruce at a Packard meeting in California and was able to get some help for me regarding missing parts... however, there were no blueprints for my 1924 Sport and as I understand it also none for other cars from the 1920s

Karl

The following image belongs to my first text and the following images. It shows how the relatively small wooden cross-section of the woodbow bends with age, or rather how it is bent by the current, relatively strong top weave.

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.....various convertible top rods

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........... 1927 Convertible top frame

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Hi Jesus
I've already responded to this topic via private message, but I don't have time to deal with it further. I hope you'll find answers to your questions and requests here in the forum. However, based on my own experience, I can't offer much hope that you'll find photos or measurements for the desired 1927/28 convertible top rods that would actually help you recreate this convertible top. Replicating a convertible top rod requires not only special craftsmanship—which I assume you have—but also special tools and machines for shaping and connecting the profile rods. Particular problems in reproducing this rod, however, lie in the technique of folding the individual rod sections. All parts must be assembled according to the principle of parallel displacement for the respective vehicle dimensions, so that all metal/wooden arches are in the intended position at the rear when the convertible top is folded. The first photo shows the rods of my 1924 Sport Phaeton exactly as they should NOT be. Someone simply guy shortened it so that the top can be placed on the windshield frame. The result shows that this top does not belong to my 1924 Sport Phaeton, but to a 1925/26 touring model. The idea of simply shortening now all the rear rods to lengthen the two front ones ….accordingly results in the top no longer folding... it remains half-open. The principle of parallel displacement is disrupted and no longer works. In addition, the bent ends of the individual rods must assume exactly the position in which they tension the top fabric and simultaneously "lock" themselves in this position through counterpressure. Even a 10 mm difference in length between the rods is enough for the top to not work. So I think... if you can't get original rods as a sample, it will be very, very difficult to reproduce the rods. I couldn't have found anyone here in Germany who would even take on this work and at a reasonable price…
For over two years, I searched the internet for photos and information to gather enough information about the individual designs of the various Packard models. Since I had already recreated several convertible top designs for different vehicles, I was only looking for the specific design features that I needed to consider when creating the basic design. My solution to the problem of the required length of the individual frame rods was to drill a hole every 10 mm in the center of a section of the rods, allowing me to move the bolts inch by inch to find the right position where all the rod sections fit together perfectly, as shown in the last photo. However, this meant that the frame actually had to be built twice. The drilled rods are merely examples. For my convertible top, I chose a slightly stronger profile into which I could also press-fit bronze bearing bushings.
This makes it easier to move the custom-made hinge pins. I designed the metal bows as a T-profile, with the upright section disappearing into a groove in the wooden bow above. Visually, this isn't a problem, as the inside of the wooden bows is already covered with the single-layer original fabric of the stronger convertible top fabric. This preserves the original appearance and prevents the wooden bows from sagging, which often occurs later. I'm adding a few more pictures that I gathered from the internet. There are also two of a convertible top from a 1927 Phaeton. I hope all this helps.

Karl

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I had no choice to install this design instead of the oil drain plug. It's the optimal, lowest point for a dipstick. Furthermore, the components used were ideal without any rework. Regarding the "petrol tap opening"... my now notoriously poor English forces me to translate everything with the Google Translator... and there, "petrol tap opening" is translated as "petrol tap opening"... which in my language means "fuel tap." So, I don't know what "petrol tap opening" means. I only know petcocks as the eight brass taps on my engine's cylinder head.

Soldering the components with silver solder serves my goal of ensuring a "bullet-proof" connection between all parts and avoiding visually large transitions during the nickel plating process after this part is finished on my lathe.

It is certainly sufficient to use the well-known, good, oil-resistant thread sealants. And the nickel plating is simply a matter of aesthetics for me. By the way: After attaching the lower cover plates between the engine and the frame, only a piece of the standpipe and the cap are visible.

Karl

Hello...
Here's the photo you requested. Since the assembly is mounted directly on the oil drain plug, the slight elevation created by the adapter nut ensures that no significant residual oil remains in the oil pan. The plate mounted centrally below the oil pump should be removed after a certain period of time anyway, so that the accumulated residue can drain away.

Not...
The entire assembly consists of simple components that are available at any well-stocked plumbing store. The components are quite easy to identify in the photo. I connect the components permanently and securely by coating the threads and contact surfaces with silver solder and then screwing them together while heating. I cut a short thread into the dipstick. I drill/cut a thread of the same size into the cap and screw the dipstick in. I then solder it with silver solder. The 3-4 mm thick cap of the cap is sufficient to securely and tightly hold the dipstick in place. The slot I milled into the lid, as described above, accommodates the toggle, which I also secured with silver solder at a depth of approximately 2 mm. I don't think this construction requires a more detailed description or sizing.

I've included some links here that show where you can find these parts. The better fittings may not be in stock at HD in the US, but I´m sure they are available at well-stocked plumbing stores.

homedepot.com/s/brass%20plumbing%20fittings

google.com/search?sca_esv=55be52598c2605ca&q=messing+vernickelt+t+st%C3%BCck+sanit%C3%A4r+fittings+vernickelt&uds=AOm0WdE2fekQnsyfYEw8JPYozOKzRRbFMNp8JeIQTZ9B9srRc5UQIl0glr3ZXqspMLnat4Eda48dvAtKw1BGSoVEKaajGnvpOXE7j2uQvtz0b2OXML9pU1f8D_siuC6n1tcfoDAZMptC9D8-egJGc06D3bBaiMKeZSw0nld5ygtSTpd-0dpRQD5v1ozSEiE9hzR5jYFV8gmtDR2tzMi3-roJ7OTdz-Idd451uzh3IlPJ2AB7PlgsJB0&udm=2&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjM54TB2ruNAxVqKFkFHX06JL0QxKsJegUIkwEQAQ&ictx=0&biw=1536&bih=712&dpr=1.25

amazon.com/-/de/s?k=brass+nickel+plumbing+fittings+3%2F4&page=2&xpid=ia3BTStOjzOd2&__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=37MG722S0QGZB&qid=1748077105&sprefix=brass+nickel+plumbing+fittings+3%2F4+%2Caps%2C175&ref=sr_pg_2

Karl

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A few days ago I came across this discussion on the subject of oil dipstick. I also wanted to be able to measure the oil level in my 1924 Sport 136 and came up with this solution. I found all the components for this in a hardware store in the plumbing department. They are made of brass and here in Germany they are all sold in inches. I think I even found the connection to the oil pan with a suitable thread. Or I made it fit on my lathe... I soldered the parts to the screwed connections with silver solder and then screwed them together while soldering heat. At the end of the horizontal pipe there is now a matching plug which serves now as a drain plug. The hat was a matching cap into which I milled a slot and soldered in a suitably manufactured 3mm brass plate to help with turning. I then polished everything and had it nickel-plated.

Karl

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Hello Ken.
Thank you for your appreciative words. Unfortunately, there isn't anyone, and there probably won't be anyone, to whom I can pass on my knowledge. I wouldn't be able to find the time to impart my knowledge to anyone, either. Such a situation would require a considerable investment of time, and this time would hinder and delay the current work on the 1924 Sport. Besides, I probably wouldn't have the nerve or patience for it anymore. However, I see that as a father of a young family, you have a great opportunity to work on your Packard with your kids, teaching them craftsmanship in a completely natural way and having an interesting and fun task together. I wish you and your young family many trouble-free trips and continued success and progress in the ongoing refurbishment of this "black monster".

Karl

Many thanks to my two commenters. The relatively high number of clicks shows that others are interested in my work, too. Reason enough, then, to continue this blog. It's certainly becoming increasingly difficult and time-consuming for me to translate back and forth to describe my work and explain certain things in the pictures. But time is short, especially when "friends" keep persuading me to "take a look" at their car... like I just did with a Jaguar XK140 that was hard to shift gears and whose engine was sputtering. That quick look has now turned into four days, and there will be a few more to come, because the result was that the bracket for the hydraulic clutch master cylinder broke off the frame. The idiot who retrofitted it had "glued" the bracket to a partially rusted frame with just three spot welds. I'll probably have to remove the carburettors too. Anyone familiar with the XK140 knows what a tedious job that is. Perhaps the float needles have been dry for too long because the Jaguar has only been driven once in recent years. Or too much rust from the tank has accumulated in the float chambers, making the cylinders overfilled with fuel.
This leaves me with less and less time for other things. If I want to finish my 1924 Sport in the foreseeable future.
Nevertheless, I'm always happy to receive a comment on my blog.

Karl

.... fan blades mounted on blade support with 4mm stainless steel semi-circular hollow rivets.

Karl

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