Car was on bring a trailer some time ago in the US, car then appeared at auction in the UK a few weeks ago along with a 48 Chrysler with the same owner, the Chrysler woody hardtop sold the Caribbean did not, car probably on its way back to the collector/dealer in Holland. Not a big market for such a basket case!

Dear Owen

Thanks for the very helpful note I will contact Daytona Parts.

Regards


Marcus

Thanks again.

The float is OK, though they say you should heat it and put it in water to test properly, no sign of liquid inside and it functions OK when the carb is open and on the car and starter is turning etc. I will contact the carburetor shop today see what they say. I have a Viton tipped needle in my 120 and that sometimes floods as well!
I will also check the bowl vent to see that it was not blocked.
Interestingly the one of the accelerator jets was blocked at the tip where the pipe feeds through a hole in the main discharge tube, very difficult to unblock as the tube is soldered into the body and had to be bent to get it out of the hole. Previous owner had reported poor acceleration and this may be the reason, car was proffesionally restored so it shows these things can get missed.
I have not checked the pressure and am unsure of the best way to do this I hear that some mech pumps do give too much, and regulators can be fitted, with the bowl exposed it gives surges of fuel which splash out!

thanks this is very helpful, but what is the best way to solve it ? would you recommend changing to a rubber tipped valve or lap the existing with a paste? typically it doesn't flood when the float chamber is exposed, is there any way of stopping the valve from rotating though I cant see why the manual says it should be inserted with the triangular corner bottom most, it seemed to rotate every time the float was moved?

My 1939 super 8 will not start. The carb will often flood gas through the drain pipe continuously as the engine is turned,with either the choke open or closed, or foot on gas pedal or off, makes no difference just floods, a lot of gas pours down the pipe for as long as the engine is turned.
I have checked the fuel level in the bowl it was slightly less than 5/8th and I have increased it to 5/8th, the float is fine and free. I have turned the car with the top of the carb off and the fuel level remains constant i.e. the needle seals off OK, the triangular needle is stainless steel tipped not rubber, the shop manual says the point of the triangle should face down, which it was with the top of the carb off but when you reassemble there is nothing to stop this from turning in its tube.
I have cleaned the carb out, all passages clear. The accelerator pump works and the leather is OK.
Why does the gas flood through the carb? I have also run the cars pressure adjustable aux electric pump with the carb open but on the car and again the fuel level stays at the correct level in the bowl. I only use the pump for filling the carb after the car has been standing for sometime.
The battery is a double 6V high output type that will crank for hours, the plugs are probably fouled now as well, but I must sort the flooding
Carb is an EE23 original restored some time ago ie correct for this car.
There is no silt in the tank and the gas line is filtered
Any suggestions gratefully received.

I will post some pictures as soon as get into it.
My oil pressure was quite low (I think the oil was a bit thin too, just changed to a classic 20 - 50 but not checked to see if pressure is better) and the canister was leaking and blowing oil over the engine compartment so what you say about bearings is very pertinent. Previous owner had recipts for over $200,000 to restore the car, so I would not skimp on matters of oil either.

regards


Marcus

Dear Jim / Owen

Many thanks for your help, the previous owners restoration bills listed the following on March 1999 "removed oil filter, cut apart and cleaned. Glass beaded filter can parts. Worked to convert to a spin on filter. Soldered end on the oil filter can, glass beaded and tested for leaks, re-soldered one end and ground it on, glass beaded again, pressure tested and worked on leaks in oil filter, resoldered, ground, glass beaded and cleaned oil filter, reassembled, pressure tested to 70 PSI, NO LEAKS"
There is a filter kit listed for $81.25 and a Fram filter.

There appears to be oil sloshing in the canister and there has been some leakage from the joint to the old cainster so I am assuming it is the O ring conversion and I will try and unscrew with caution.

thanks again.


Marcus

My L-8 ? oil filter was modified internally to take a new type spin on filter. But as I did not do the work or have ever had the unit apart, can anyone tell me how to open the original canister, It is 4" dia says inlet at one end and outlet/ front on the other. Does it split or is it threaded?
Any advice gratefully recieved before I destroy it, it also leaks slightly at this joint!

My engine seems to run with a low oil pressure at speed and when cold, it never indicates much over 40 psi which I think is just over half way up the guage. At idle it doesnt drop much under 30 either. I dont know what oil is in it and may change it so that I know it has a suitable classic grade 20 - 50.
The engine was rebuilt by a professional shop that has experience in these engines in 2000 and the car has only 500 miles since (approx).
The oil filter was "cut apart and cleaned and converted internally to a spin on filter", but leaks slightly at its joint around the circumferance in the middle of the filter unit.
Engine runs well generally.
I have not checked the regulator.
I would have expected it to to indicate at max pressure on start up and at speed.