Re: 1941 Packard 356 8 cylinder - Low Vacuum After Rebuild
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Quite a regular
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Update: The Manifold IS leaking.
I made an adapter with a tire stem, piece of a tin can and a silicone coupler with hose clamps so I could slightly pressurize the intake manifold. I then put about 5 PSI of air to it and sprayed the intake ports with soapy water and could see at least 3 of the 4 inlet connections blowing bubbles. I will R&R the manifolds and report back to see if that improves the situation...a good case of K.I.S.S right here :)
Posted on: 2021/9/12 23:41
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1941 Packard 356 8 cylinder - Low Vacuum After Rebuild
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Quite a regular
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Hi All,
I have a 1941 180 with a recently rebuilt 356 straight 8 cylinder that has hydraulic lifters (I believe, see attached picture) that I have never been able to get to idle smoothly or have acceptable vacuum. No matter what I have done with Carburetor or timing, I struggle to get 13 inches of vacuum at idle of ~570-600 RPM. I have been trying to find a major intake manifold leak that would explain this, but can't seem to find an obvious leak. I am now wondering if a valve train with a misaligned cam or without sufficient clearance (~.03 to .07") is to blame? From the build sheet, the following camshaft information was listed (note that engine builder was not Packard specific, but was a very sharp guy): Cam Lobe Separation: 110.38 Centerline set to: 107.25 I have done compression and leak down checks, and while they look a little low (101 psi avg with 97 on the lowest , 7% leak down avg on each cylinder, highest at 9%), I don't think that would explain the very low vacuum readings? cyl-Comp-Leak Down 1-102-6.3% 2-98-9.2% 3-100-7.9% 4-97-8.0% 5-101-6.6% 6-104-6.5% 7-103-5.3% 8-105-8.0% Average:101-7.2% Is there a way to check valve lash on an assembled engine? Everything I have read is checking and grinding valves to achieve the desired .03" to .07" clearance, but I haven't seen much on checking an already assembled engine.
Posted on: 2021/9/12 19:49
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1941 180 Fuel Line & Fitting Size
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Quite a regular
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Hi Guys,
Can anyone confirm the stock steel fuel line size? I am pretty sure it is 5/16" (measured O.D. of the line to be around 0.325") with flare type fittings. I am thinking 5/16" brake line *should* be the same? This would mean the fittings would be 1/2"-20, correct?
Posted on: 2018/1/28 21:09
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Re: 1941 180 Clutch Linkage Picture/Diagram
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Quite a regular
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Joe,
Thanks for The pictures - It looks like I am missing a spring as both areas I highlighted in my initial pic look like they have springs on them in your car. I hate to be a bother but can you confirm where they hook up on the other side - Do they just hook into a hole in the frame, or is there a bracket I am missing?
Posted on: 2018/1/9 19:26
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1941 180 Clutch Linkage Picture/Diagram
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Quite a regular
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Hi guys,
I am having a bit of trouble figuring out where the clutch return spring would go in the clutch linkage. I have attached a photo of the two areas I think it may hook up to on the linkage, but I am unsure where it would attach to on the car. Thanks in advance! Attach file: (247.22 KB)
Posted on: 2018/1/9 11:49
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Re: Oil in Intake Manifold
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Quite a regular
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So I pulled a vacuum on the vacuum pump side of the fuel/vacuum pump and it did not hold a vacuum, but, it wasn't a huge leak.
20-15 in-hg ~ 5 sec 15-10 in-hg ~ 15 sec 10-5 in-hg ~45 seconds 5-0 in-hg ~ 2 minutes I think i'm going to loop the vacuum pump for now and "collect more data". I did suck out some oily fuel from the bottom of the manifold, but it seemed to be more gas than oil. I guess I should also make sure the gas side of the pump isn't leaking oil into the fuel.
Posted on: 2017/12/19 23:00
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Re: Oil in Intake Manifold
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Quite a regular
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Thanks for the Reply Ross.
I actually doubt I have *that* much idle time on the car. Probably more like 5 hours. Idle time is mostly just because I still have body panels off of the car and other projects going on, so yet to really get it on the road. I think you might be on to something with the vacuum pump. It looked to be a fresh rebuild, but has been in a hot and dry environment for ~ 4 years, and on a shelf for who knows how long before that. I quickly took the tube from the fuel/vacuum pump to intake off and noticed some oil on the on the fuel/vacuum end of the tube. Nothing excessive, but I am assuming there should be *no* oil. I would guess a diagnostic test would be to pull a vacuum from the inlet and plug the outlet and make sure it holds (I am sure that there is a diagnostic test in some packard literature one of the gurus could post)?
Posted on: 2017/12/13 23:17
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Oil in Intake Manifold
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Quite a regular
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Hi All,
1941 super 8 with a fresh rebuild. Compression test seems to be good. cyl-(PSI) 1---100 2---95 3---98 4---92 5---95 6---95 7---100 8---100 I just changed all the spark plugs because they were all coated in oil and the car was misfiring. The car only has about 10 hours of run time, ~90% at idle. I do remember seeing some oil in the intake after a hot shutdown/restart with some oil smoke out the tailpipe, but in general the engine seems to run good with no obvious signs/smells of blow-by. I do have a PCV hooked up from where the draft tube used to connect, but there doesn't seem to be any obvious signs of excessive oil re-circulation via the PCV vent, and the event mentioned above was before the PCV was hooked up (I think). It could be possible this is in fact the cause, but I keep thinking of the amount of oil I remember seeing in the intake. Just wondering if there are any known causes unique to a super 8 that could cause oil getting into the intake manifold (i.e. a part left out during the rebuild, etc.) and cause plug fouling.
Posted on: 2017/12/13 19:46
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Re: Clutch Clevis Pin
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Quite a regular
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see attached pic. Simple enough when you see it together...
Posted on: 2017/9/10 23:17
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