The gaskets I've seen make a provision for the little bleed hole at the front of the block at both ends of the gasket so it can be installed either way; both gaskets illustrated in post #1 show that. If in doubt, just visually check it. As to which side up, I was taught that the gasket is best installed with the edge folds of the flanges facing the head, the thought being that if damage occurs to the surface it's a lot easier to re-surface a head than to deck and block.

Just ground the Field terminal of the regulator and rev the engine modestly while watching the ammeter. If it shows a charge, the problem is the regulator. If it doesn't, the problem is the generator.

Just a hunch but it looks like the door check strap retainer used for many years.

Perhaps you'll find this useful, from a vintage AC spark plug catalog.

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The change in external door handle attachment was an early 22nd Series running change. See page 32 of Bob Neal's book for more information.

Apparently this jack was also used. Sorry I missed this page first time. Again, image from the book used her with permission from the author.

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I've not yet heard a good plausible explanation for why the early 1940 cars don't have a theft-proof number. Of the data I've accumulated, the last 1939 number is 517170 so one would think 1940 would begin just beyond that. The range of known (to me) 1940 numbers is from 521052 thru 541112 with 1941 commencing about 542XXX. Hence it would appear that about 78,000 of the 98,020 1940 cars were built without an antitheft number.

Adding a bit further to the curiosity, some 1940 cars without the antitheft number have the opening and closing brackets, and others don't.

Don, only 1938 used a decal, and only for Detroit production. The Canadian-built 1938 Packards continued to use a metal plate.

An example. My 8-ply rated 7.00 x 17 bias ply have a rating of 1560 lbs at 40 psi each for a total of 6240 lbs. Naked car weight is 4640 and with gas, oil, water and 2 passengers is probably about 5300 lbs. Experience has shown that a cold inflation pressure of 36-37 psi is best for this set of circumstances.

From the Reedy & Shaub book on Packard's jacks and tools, and used with permission of the authors.

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A 6.5 x 20 would be a bias ply tire. I'm not aware of what pressures Packard might have recommended.

One approach would be to get a recommendation from the tire manufacturer.

Another approach would be to compare the vehicle weight including gas, oil, water and a typical passenger and baggage load to the maximum weight carrying capacity of the 4 tires, as marked on the tire. As the two weights approach each other, the inflation pressure should approach the maximum pressure needed to bear that load. That information should be molded into the tire sidewall.

As mileage accumulates, check the tread wear pattern for signs of under- or overinflation and adjust pressure accordingly.