Another suspect I didn't mention in my previous post is toe-in you should have about an eight inch of toe in measured at the rim, be sure to check for rim run out before measure. Again simple enough, a tape measure and a few minutes.
Dick

Front end shimmy can be caused by several different things, several that have been mentioned. You may try swapping front and rear wheels to see a change. another place to look would be at the caster on your axle which I would expect to be be 2-3 degrees positive. Positive caster is what causes your wheels to come back to center when you turn. If you don't have enough positive caster when you steer back to center your wheels will easily go beyond center then back and forth trying to find that center. You may have to slow almost to a stop to stop the shimmy. You can put several hundred pounds in the rear of the car lowering the rear which increases the positive caster slightly. Easy test, no cost, no wrenches.
Dick

If I could add to Ross's reply, although there is no rear seal as you might exspect there is a rear main cap seal which consists of two wooden sticks one on each side of the cap which prevents oil from leaking around the sides of the cap. mine was m missing these sticks and leaked a bit. you can easily unbolt the cap and clean the slinger area and drain slot in cap then install the cap and sticks. also the crank slinger has an area behind it that is sort of threaded which causes any oil that travels beyond the slinger to travel back to the slinger and not back toward the flywheel.
Dick

One more thing to help is to remove the light weight cross member under the bell housing, it's just four bolts and it gives you more wiggle room. I would also clean and check the oil pump pick up basket while the pan is down. the screens are often in poor codition. If you need one Max Merritt has exchanges.
Dick

37 is similar to yours I believe, It is not a simple job and due to poor advice I did it twice. If I can help anyone thru what I learned I am happy to try.
Dick

No, the running board is flat between ridges you want full cotact. Call me 603-8830230

Follow directions on can, adhesive on both sides can be sprayed or brushed. I brushed, let dry until you can touch lightly with the back of your hand without sticking. then go to work. It's best to do it at 70 to 75 degrees. Sorry for the long story but there is a lot to understand to get good results.

The date code is a little sticker on the cover about 1" long it had the product code which is 5 then year of production followed by day of year. Mine read 519214 which is 2019, 214 day of the year. I bought it on amazon from Rochford Supply for $55.00. If it has a bad date code they will take it back and replace it, they did for me. To be a little clearer. the 3/4" boards go the length of the running board. All the information I'm giving you was obtained by finding a knowledgable person at Weldwood. The cans at big box stores have no date codes, Good luck

I just finished this on my '36 . First don't use counter top adhesive. After my first failure I called Weldwood and found some critical points. Use welwood landau top and trim #70798-00233 it has a 240 degree release the other stuff is 140 which is no good in the sun. It has a 1 year shelf life. I found it at a big box store and they remove all date codes on the cover so don't buy it, it's critical. When you do this make a roller 3 " in diameter and 3/4" wide. Start on the body side and roll the mat using 25 psi. into each valley. As you go clamp each valley with a 3/4" square board working across and it will line up perfect. leave clamped for 72 hours. This is a two man job to hold the mat of the glue as you go. There are other glues and methods but this worked great for me.

Thanks again Owen for your quick reply
Dick