Re: Hand spotlight project
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Well I cracked mine open today. No complications, three screws and the hanger and it comes right apart. Must have been rewired at some point because it was a rubberized cord shielding.
Bulb seems to say M94, which upon search confuses me. The GE M94 on Amazon here seems to look right and is a sealed beam but the specs don’t seem right. 100w 13volts? BigKev is this the 12v you used? I’m worried that it won’t work right, or bright I should say, with the car still on 6v. Attach file: 53E1CA51-79BB-4856-B25F-4A25E2A34690.jpeg (4,729.77 KB) 32B24A89-170E-4856-81CE-F50ED2BAA4E5.jpeg (3,439.96 KB) A0D6C060-49FE-4234-973F-D7E58C8AA2C7.jpeg (3,113.14 KB)
Posted on: 3/24 13:57
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Re: Interior Light bezel and glass lens
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Good catch, frosted was the right word. Though I will say some that I’ve seen condition wise I might describe as opaque!
Posted on: 2/17 12:35
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Interior Light bezel and glass lens
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I have what I think is an interior light chrome bezel and lens from a Packard which came along with parts for my 22nd series engine project. I haven’t been able to identify it, does anyone know what model/year this may be from? Most I’ve seen are flat glass, older seem to be a frosted glass, haven’t seen any that have this clear but ribbed/beveled style. It’s surprisingly tough to find pictures of all the dome lights!
I’ve posted here because it’s about parts generally, and if it’s not something I need I’d be open to selling it. I posted it to FB with some other pieces to identify and some people have already asked about buying it, but I’m honestly hesitant to sell without knowing exactly what it is. Hopefully folks here understand that concept more than the FB world. Attach file: 31F79EAB-3C6E-4CFF-A383-54753BE58241.jpeg (932.42 KB) 617C3D65-8843-4ED9-9DE0-9FC0E461A4B1.jpeg (681.12 KB)
Posted on: 2/17 11:46
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Re: Another Spark Question
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Well, can’t thank you all enough! I retarded the timing a couple times and it’s starting up reliably again… better than before considering I rewired and replaced most of the ignition system. The only remaining issue is that the horn relay is clearly shorting out, when I turn it goes wild, which is actually a very effective method of getting people to move out of your way! That will get addressed after the auto body fixes the rear… and maybe I’ll regrease the distributor via that cup.
I do have a delco distributor in the basement that came with the parts haul and replacement engine. If those are preferable maybe I’ll fix up that one for the big swap instead of using the Autolite on mine.
Posted on: 2/5 17:53
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Re: Another Spark Question
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Ok great that means this one right should be circled in red? I appreciate the help, all this stuff is fairly “on the fly” so I get in my head about trying it or not, but after reading some other posts I’m pretty convinced part of the start issues is being too advanced. Well that and all the cracks and issues with the block and now probably manifolds. Maybe if the manifold is cracked I’ll rename her to The Cracken, until I get the new engine and goodies in at least!
Posted on: 2/4 18:43
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Re: Another Spark Question
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So I got the car started and in the driveway thankfully. It’s still hard starting but I swapped out the condenser again with a known good one, and set the point gap closer to .018. Started getting spark again and eventually it fired. I may have a manifold leak somewhere because it’s starting like it’s sucking air, and benefitting from pumps of the throttle to squirt fluid in. I also think my timing is advanced for its condition, it seems like the engine is hitting compression strokes when trying to start and then not turning over smoothly.
Can someone remind me what to loosen to rotate the distributor (Autolite 4502b) to retard the timing just slightly and see if starting improves? I think my brother did it last time and I don’t want to throw the whole thing off by loosening the wrong thing and trying to turn it.
Posted on: 2/4 16:35
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Re: Another Spark Question
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Limited time again today, but still no spark. I briefly could try out the meter and got some strange results. It seemed to show continuity with the points both open and closed. Maybe it was user error on the new meter as I’ve not used one myself before. Also the condenser installed was showing nothing on the 20 setting. Hopefully I’ll get some more time for troubleshooting tomorrow.
Posted on: 2/2 17:48
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Re: Another Spark Question
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Thanks Ernie, that’s interesting about the weights. I’m a bit afraid of further exploratory surgery into the dizzy… but I might try to check it out or at least look for evidence.
I couldn’t get out to the car in daylight today, but the meter did arrive and I tested some things I swapped. Interesting results. My condenser was toast almost completely. My king lead was showing continuity on the wire itself but the fold over connectors had nothing. Hopefully this increases the chances that when I put the fully charged battery in it’ll spark away. Anyone want to place a bet?
Posted on: 2/1 17:48
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Re: Another Spark Question
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I appreciate the support.
I have the right size battery cables. My theory right now is that I jostled something, either a delicate wire, points, something, in the distributor while trying to work through my no-start problem. Essentially it has been cranking more upon start up(I partially attributed to the northern winter), but otherwise working (this is my daily driver). The car was rear-ended and is going to get a $$ repair at an auto body thanks to the insurance company of the car that hit it while parked. I drove it 70 miles (only the trunk and valence were really damaged), parked it Saturday before last, and had to deliver it to the repair shop on a Monday... of course it was bitter cold that Monday morning and it didn't like that at all. It was firing some, but not enough to start up. I gave up so I could get my son to school and go to work, then tried again later when it was somewhat warmer but even after some troubleshooting around flooding/fouled plugs/choke/battery, no luck. It was almost starting a few times but never stayed alive... up until I pulled the distributor cap to inspect and knock off some corrosion from the points. From then on I've had zero firing and that's when I started really looking if I had spark, and removed just about anything electrical, replaced whatever I could buy quickly or had NOS, except still with no spark. Car is on the street so it limits easy work, also my timing light is stuck in the trunk which is jammed shut from the impact. I do have two batteries now, one is kept charged while I troubleshoot with the other until I'm not confident in it's reserve... then it goes up the three flights to the charger on my porch and the other one goes in. Starter for sure is not 100%, as are many other things...but I'm still skeptical that it's causing the no-start. I think the cold was just too much that Monday, and I think part of my problem was fuel delivery. In hindsight, I wish my first troubleshoot (other than the battery swap) was to pull the fuel filter from the glass bowl, then spray out the screen from the carb and any other cleaning I could have managed there. It just seems like too much of a coincidence that it was stumbling right up until I had to fiddle with the distributor. I have tried verifying timing using the static timing process from Ross' video (or parts of it I can do without my multimeter which arrives today). Tomorrow I hope to do some continuity checks, throw in new plugs from the stockpile even though mine are only 6mo old, and actually make sure the ignition parts are all functioning, and another round of battery swapping. One question I had was around the point gap. My feelers are only .016 and .018, manual calls for .017 I believe. Would it be better to go with .018? Also, the points have the spring and ribbon which connect to the condenser screw contact...does the order I put the condenser contact and those ribbons under that screw (which is impossible to get a screwdriver on btw) make a difference? Thanks
Posted on: 1/31 12:39
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