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Re: 39 120 dash instrument lighting
Home away from home
Joined:
2018/10/28 16:42
From Bruce, MI
Posts: 115
Check the size of your existing wiring. Prior owner on my 1928 use #14 wire for my feed to the ammeter (which can draw up to 25 amps). The wiring got so hot that the internal insulation melted and leached out between the cloth wiring.

At a high level: #14 is good for 15 amps, #12 20 amps, and #10 30 amps.

Posted on: 11/10 19:07:15
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Re: 39 120 dash instrument lighting
Home away from home
Joined:
2018/10/28 16:42
From Bruce, MI
Posts: 115
Once you have identified the offending wire(s), I would suggest adding a bit of additional protecting by putting some friction tape over the frayed wire. This could be done before or after the liquid tape. If you do it before the liquid tape, make sure you go beyond the tape edge with the liquid tape to ensure a good bond with the wire.

Best of luck.
Gar

Posted on: 11/10 6:55:14
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Re: 1940 Ignition Switch
Home away from home
Joined:
2018/10/28 16:42
From Bruce, MI
Posts: 115
Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions. I just purchased a NOS coil that is 'correct' for my car and have replaced the 'incorrect coil with the NOS.

I am now looking for the endcap that attaches to the armored cable from the ignition...

Posted on: 11/7 18:38:08
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Re: Tubed tires
Home away from home
Joined:
2018/10/28 16:42
From Bruce, MI
Posts: 115
I was going to replace the tires and tubes but all of the vintage tire manufactures that I contacted recommended that I go tubeless if possible.

I replaced all six tires on my 1940 Super 8 with tubeless 4" wide whitewall tires. Absolutely no issues. I had the entire wheel rim sandblasted and then powder coated with a black gloss at $40/rim. They look great and most importantly don't leak.

Best of luck

Posted on: 11/7 18:27:31
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Re: 1940 Ignition Switch
Home away from home
Joined:
2018/10/28 16:42
From Bruce, MI
Posts: 115
Joe/Wes- What is on the end of the cable? (left side of pic)

I assume in connects somehow to the coil?

MY cable is missing that part as well.

Posted on: 11/1 17:22:10
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Re: 1940 Ignition Switch
Home away from home
Joined:
2018/10/28 16:42
From Bruce, MI
Posts: 115
I drilled out the rivets and that did nothing to allow access to the inside of the switch. Any suggestions?

Posted on: 10/31 11:42:24
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Re: 1937 Six radiator fluid
Home away from home
Joined:
2018/10/28 16:42
From Bruce, MI
Posts: 115
I would also add to make sure you don't buy the antifreeze for modern cars, as some of the additives are significantly DIFFERENT.

Posted on: 10/30 9:39:15
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Re: stop light connector for 1928 Packard 533
Home away from home
Joined:
2018/10/28 16:42
From Bruce, MI
Posts: 115
I am working on a source for have several of these switches made. If anyone is interested in getting one, let me know and I will increase my qty.

Posted on: 10/26 18:41:16
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1940 Ignition Switch
Home away from home
Joined:
2018/10/28 16:42
From Bruce, MI
Posts: 115
Hi my Ignition switch/coil wire is enclosed in an armor cable. I need to replace it and cannot figure out an easy way to open up my ignition switch as it is riveted shut. Is it safe to drill out the rivets to get access to the inside of the switch and the coil wire termination?

thanks

Posted on: 10/26 18:27:52
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Re: 526 sedan help pac5
Home away from home
Joined:
2018/10/28 16:42
From Bruce, MI
Posts: 115
I have a 28 533. My 1928 is supposed to have a CD777 generator but it has a CL1005 generator. The CL1005 is for a 1932 car.


There may be other ones that work but those two work for sure. I have seen one occasionally on ebay.

Gar

Posted on: 10/21 17:44:09
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