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Wanted: Trunk Rack Strips 30/31
Quite a regular
Joined:
2019/7/5 3:41
From Glenwood MD
Posts: 43
I need a set (5) of trunk rack strips for a 30 or 31 Standard 8. They are made out of stamped steel and were originally woodgrained. I'm only interested in straight, rust-free examples. I already have a set that look like they fell off the back of a truck going down the highway, and need something that will be a tight fit and finish.

Posted on: 10/18 3:08:56
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Re: 8th series sidemount hardware
Quite a regular
Joined:
2019/7/5 3:41
From Glenwood MD
Posts: 43
No, if the sidemount arm were to be placed with the plate on the exterior of the splasher, it would sit on it. You'd still see it. I couldn't imagine the Packard engineers would've designed it that way. Perhaps the plate fits between the bracket and the splasher?

Posted on: 10/17 2:53:28
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Re: 8th series sidemount hardware
Quite a regular
Joined:
2019/7/5 3:41
From Glenwood MD
Posts: 43
See plate in the attached file.

I think I figured it out. The service parts manual has a listing for a part 147892 -- Side Wheel Carrier Bracket Frame Reinforcement and lists the quantity as "2". I believe the plates mount on the inside of the frame and give extra rigidity to the mounting point.

Attach file:



jpg  sidemount plate.jpg (63.11 KB)
198445_5f8624b2ea6c4.jpg 640X853 px

Posted on: 10/13 15:08:19
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Re: 8th series sidemount hardware
Quite a regular
Joined:
2019/7/5 3:41
From Glenwood MD
Posts: 43
I'll take a picture of it and post it; there is a plate that must interface with the works as the bolt holes are a clear match. Perhaps it was a factory installed shim to line up the spare in the well?

Posted on: 10/13 3:57:41
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8th series sidemount hardware
Quite a regular
Joined:
2019/7/5 3:41
From Glenwood MD
Posts: 43
Hi Folks -- I've been working on installing my rear fenders, splash aprons and running boards on my 31 sedan. My question relates to hardware for the sidemounts. I have the spacer blocks that are about three inches thick and obviously fit between the frame and splash guards. I have the arm with a matching bolt pattern which obviously support the tire. But I also have a rectangular steel plate, about 1/8th thick, with matching bolt holes -- where does this go? Under the splash aprons or on the splash aprons as a place for the arm to bolt to?

Posted on: 10/11 10:26:40
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Re: Distributor Advance Springs
Quite a regular
Joined:
2019/7/5 3:41
From Glenwood MD
Posts: 43
Gentlemen: Thanks very much for the information and guidance.

Posted on: 10/11 3:31:53
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Distributor Advance Springs
Quite a regular
Joined:
2019/7/5 3:41
From Glenwood MD
Posts: 43
Does anyone have or know where I can find a pair of distributor advance springs for a 31 Standard 8?

Posted on: 10/4 5:12:25
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Re: Best way to start an engine after years of sitting
Quite a regular
Joined:
2019/7/5 3:41
From Glenwood MD
Posts: 43
Yes, a clean-out looked in order. I found PB Blaster and and toothbrush worked well to clean out the junk that the fingers couldn't reach. Be sure to clean out the drain holes leading back to the sump.

Posted on: 9/29 17:03:59
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Re: Best way to start an engine after years of sitting
Quite a regular
Joined:
2019/7/5 3:41
From Glenwood MD
Posts: 43
I did the start up procedure a year ago on a 31 Standard 8 after it had been sitting for 35 years. I put about two tablespoons of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let it work a week. With the plugs out, I used a hand crank (which is something I glad I did) to rotate everything then after about 1/2 turn, everything locked up. I figured it was stuck closed valve and everything stopped when the cam lobe came in contact with the stuck valve. Not wanting to tear everything apart, I found a youtube video advising on a 50/50 mixture of diesel fuel and ATF, filling the cylinders to the brim, and letting it sit for a couple weeks. Yep, it worked, everything was free after two weeks. Be sure to drain the sump before doing this as you'll use 2 gallons of this concoction which will drain into the sump.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QqXKzS1JVU

I then drained that, filled with fresh oil and handcranked about 100 times. I disconnected the oil pressure gauge while I handcranked the engine (with the plugs out). I was able to get a flow of oil at the connection, so I obviously was able to build pressure such that oil was reaching the rotating journals. Be sure to set timing, clean up all your ignition parts, gap the plugs and points, and clean/rebuild the carb. I used a vacuum tool to draw gasoline from the tank through the fuel pump, and handcranked some more to prime the carb. After massaging the carburetor a little, it fired up.

It'd be a good idea to pull the valve cover and confirm all the valves are moving as they should before hitting it with the torque of the starter. Clean all the junk out around the valves while you're in there.

Posted on: 9/15 4:04:19
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31 -- Fender welt
Quite a regular
Joined:
2019/7/5 3:41
From Glenwood MD
Posts: 43
Can anyone provide guidance on where fender beading/welt is applied on a 31 Sedan? Specifically:

1. is it fitted between the panel that covers the fuel tank and body;
2. For the rear fenders, does it terminate at the top of the splashers or does it continue down to the running boards;
3. Does the beading applied anywhere along the running boards ie between running board and splashers horizontally, or between running boards and front and rear fenders.
4. For the front, does it just go between the frames shelves and fenders? Anywhere else?
5. What's the correct size 1/4 or 3/16?

Posted on: 8/29 8:00:41
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