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   All Posts (pepepackard)


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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
Quite a regular
Joined:
2009/11/9 1:25
From Melbourne Victoria Australia
Posts: 45
Hello Kevin,
Make sure you tighten the manifold to the block first, the three hotbox bolts should be loose when you do so. I have learned this form experience, I am unsure why this is the correct sequence however the Packard maintenance manual describes this sequence and it works.
Regards Fred

Posted on: 5/23 2:04:52
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Re: 37 115 Gas tank sending unit
Quite a regular
Joined:
2009/11/9 1:25
From Melbourne Victoria Australia
Posts: 45
Hello Ramcuda,
Haven't had any recent emails.
Regards Fred

Posted on: 5/21 2:27:25
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Re: 37 115 Gas tank sending unit
Quite a regular
Joined:
2009/11/9 1:25
From Melbourne Victoria Australia
Posts: 45
Hello Larry,
That looks exactly like mine, it also sank when saturated with fuel, I used a brass float from a carby to fix it.
Regards Pepe.

Posted on: 5/7 2:39:51
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Re: 37 115 Gas tank sending unit
Quite a regular
Joined:
2009/11/9 1:25
From Melbourne Victoria Australia
Posts: 45
Hi Ramcuda,
Will send an image of the unit with the cork float, I think it was originally lacquer coated.
Regards Pepe.

Posted on: 5/6 2:13:33
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Re: 37 115 Gas tank sending unit
Quite a regular
Joined:
2009/11/9 1:25
From Melbourne Victoria Australia
Posts: 45
Hello Ramcuda,
I have a used sender unit from a 1937 115, you can have it for the same cost as the freight, that is half the total of freight from Australia to USA.If you are interested I can send you images of it. It has a cork float I would recommend you replace with a modern brass or plastic float.
Regards Pepe Packard

Posted on: 5/4 2:39:55
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
Quite a regular
Joined:
2009/11/9 1:25
From Melbourne Victoria Australia
Posts: 45
Hello Ken,
Sorry for the delay in responding had a few technical problems with the system.The hot box should also be machined to ensure a good seal. I also used graphite powder on the surfaces that move.
If you need any parts for your 120c I may be able to assist,the mail system at the moment is via snail and not cheap, however I think I have the Torrington needle bearing for the king pins and other bits that you may need. So if David Flack can't help you out with the parts I may be able to.
Regards Fred

Posted on: 4/21 2:30:56
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
Quite a regular
Joined:
2009/11/9 1:25
From Melbourne Victoria Australia
Posts: 45
Hello Ken,
Glad to heart your 1937 120c is progressing well, a word of advice from someone that has learned the hard way when it comes to the manifold gasket.Make sure that the three bolts that hold the two manifolds together are loose(finger tight)when you bolt the manifold onto the bloc. Tighten the bolts on the block first and then the (hot box) three bolts.
Regards Pepe Packard Down Under.

Posted on: 4/18 2:38:34
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Re: WANTED exhaust manifold for 37 6cylinder
Quite a regular
Joined:
2009/11/9 1:25
From Melbourne Victoria Australia
Posts: 45
Hello Ramcuda,
Do you want the manifold that has lugs for the bolts on the ends or the later one that does not. I have both available for sale, they are located in victoria Australia. Freight costs be cheap. Let me know if you are interested and I will give you a total cost.
Regards Pepe Packard.

Posted on: 2/10 0:36:20
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Re: Argh still overheating 49
Quite a regular
Joined:
2009/11/9 1:25
From Melbourne Victoria Australia
Posts: 45
Hello PackardusOctovus,

Welcome to the overheating club, I finally overcome the problem by installing a six bladed fan from a 302cid Ford V8 engine from the 1970's. Had to enlarge the center hole slightly> I also fitted a shroud from a Isuzu pickup.Finally I fitted the radiator with a return overflow bottle and radiator neck.
Now the problem is getting the engine warm enough to use the heater.
Hope this is helpful.
Regards Pepepackard.

Posted on: 2019/6/18 2:45
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Re: 327ci mystery
Quite a regular
Joined:
2009/11/9 1:25
From Melbourne Victoria Australia
Posts: 45
Hello Packard DAN,

A tip from one who has been there and done that.Firstly check the exhaust manifold is not bowed, use a straight edge and set of feeler gauges. Have the manifold machined to ensure that it is straight. If possible have it linished to remove any milling marks as they will act like a dreadnaught file and destroy the gasket. Make sure that the bolts that hold the manifold together are loose and there is clearance around the studs that secure the manifold to the block. Bolt the manifold to the block first and tighten the bolts. Then tighten the bolts that hold the two manifolds(intake and exhaust)together. It may help to use graphite powder on the exhaust manifold surface to allow it to move under operating temperatures.This is described in the service manual and found it works best.
Regards Pepepackard.

Posted on: 2019/6/18 2:29
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