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Re: Question about a 48 Station Sedan at Barrett-Jackson
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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Isn't the dash hole for the indicator light fairly small in the 22nd series so maybe not too visible a difference if not used. Here is the official Packard notice when they made the mid 22nd production change.

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jpg  R11 OD.jpg (392.25 KB)
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Posted on: Today 10:19:54
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Re: After market A/C
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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Bad thing about swamp coolers is they won't work in the humid areas which probably encompasses 2/3 of the country. That is where refrigeration AC being able to remove the humidity is most appreciated. While they can bring the interior to a tolerable comfort level in a dry climate they won't work well even in dry areas if the windows in the car are closed and trying to keep excess hot air out. The ice type units do a better job but even then in a closed car it doesn't take long to turn the hot but dry interior into a hot and now muggy interior.

Posted on: Yesterday 12:07:04
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Re: After market A/C
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Chris, believe it or not that is the typical size of most of the hang on under dash units and maybe even a bit smaller than a couple of them. AC was in it's infancy and all kind of things were tried to package a universal add on refrigeration unit large enough to cool the entire car but small enough to fit in them.

A whole other category is the inexpensive evaporative units that were popular in desert areas -- some were a large square cube that sat on the hump and had to be filled with water or frozen ice containers and another was a round cylinder like object that hung on the side of the door and funneled cooled air thru the slightly lowered window. Those cylinders were also filled with water and a periodic rewetting of the evaporative pad was done by pulling a cord to rotate the pad thru the water tank. Let me tell you, unless it is Saturday night and you want a bath anyway one DOES NOT pull the cord fast to do the rewet while the car is going down the road at 60 mph.

Posted on: 1/18 18:00:31
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Re: 1955 Lower water hose wanted
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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Quote:

Packard wrote:
Is your Packard not with power steering ?.
Looks very good room around the water pump


My car does have power steering and Ultramatic. I was replacing the short hoses between pump and oil cooler and cooler and radiator but as far as fitting over the pump casting, the short hose diameter and fit issues are the same as the long hose you are working with. Obviously the cooler was not in position but I do not remember if I unbolted the pump and sat it aside. Just remember it was a job and the space was tight trying to lever the screwdriver.

Posted on: 1/13 8:08:43
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Re: 1955 Lower water hose wanted
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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I used silicone spray on both pump and inside hose surfaces when I did mine but liquid dishwashing soap would probably work too. It was tight and you do have to use some muscle getting it started. I started at sort of an angle and then worked around getting the hose onto the rough pump casting. As I recall, once a side was started then I also used a thin offset type screwdriver with the blade oriented as circled to sort of work around the hose and help get the hose pried over the lip and started on the casting.

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jpg  offset.jpg (76.47 KB)
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Posted on: 1/12 16:33:20
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Re: ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP
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From Fresno CA
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Whichever pump you decide on take note of it's output pressure and try to keep it in the range of the mechanical pump specs. 40 mechanical pumps are rated 4 to 4 3/4psi output. Airtex has two 6v pumps that have both been successfully used on Packards and can be wired for either positive or negative ground. Both are solenoid type pumps which the mechanical pump can pull thru when the electric is off and both have 5/16 hose connections. They should be able to install anywhere inline without issues. The Napa pump may well be one of the Airtex models but if not, Airtex pumps are found at many parts stores as well as online.

The E8902 is rated at 2.5 to 4.5 psi and the E8011 at 5-9 psi. If you are mounting near the tank and will be pushing gas the distance up to and thru the mechanical pump as well as a filter before it reaches the carb then the 5-9psi pump will be satisfactory but if you are eliminating the mechanical or mounting near the carb then the smaller pressure pump might be better. Important thing with pressure is not have an output so great that the carb float valve will be unable to stop flow.

It is suggested the pump be supplied with a separately fused line and controlled by an on/off switch so the pump can be used only when needed.

Posted on: 1/12 12:58:39
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Re: How many seats has got a 1947 Sedan Clipper officially?
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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Here are a couple of references listing the passenger capacity. The first is out of the 41-47 Clipper parts manual, Body I section. That lists the chassis type and body designation part of the vehicle number for all Clippers.

The second reference is from the Oct, 1945 Vol 19 #10 Service Counselor which contains the complete mechanical specs for the 46-47 21st series models. Note that the body number shown in that list is for the 46 models but if you refer to the chart in the Body I section you will find the 47 model year designation.

If you do not have printed copies of the literature you can download both items from this website.

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jpg  Body I .jpg (249.94 KB)
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jpg  Service Counselor.jpg (259.33 KB)
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Posted on: 1/12 9:23:52
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Re: 1937 Chandler 1AC
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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Here is a thread from the AACA forum regarding the carbs. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/278174-1 ... with-chandler-grove-carb/

I didn't see a kit listing at Daytona http://www.daytonaparts.com but maybe worth a call to see what they say. One of the AACA posters who is also a carb rebuilder (I believe he is the same shop you already mentioned) said dual barrel models of the carbs were on some Fords. If yours is a single barrel then maybe out of luck if none of the parts will interchange but if a dual, possibly one of the Ford parts guys could help. I believe I remember some Packard owners being on various forums with similar issues and received advice similar to that O_D just gave and ultimately decided to replace them.

Posted on: 1/11 19:53:57
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Re: Brake and Clutch pedal "Thump"
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The arm seals serve a dual purpose. When the pedal is up the large portion is pressed against the toe board holes to seal out wind and odors from the engine compt and the second purpose is the bellows portion do act as sort of a shock absorber to slow and cushion the abrupt stop of the pedal against the metal.

They do install as you describe. The metal plates at the end of the arms which hold the rubber pedal pads are attached to the arms with one bolt. Those plates are removed and when off and carpet is pulled back the floor toe plate with holes the arms go thru can be removed. On some cars, in order to pull the carpet back to access the screws holding the toe plate the accelerator also needs to be removed.

Once arms are clear, the seals are pushed on with the small end down. I would suggest you clean the arms well and then use some silicone spray or dish washing liquid as a lubricant before pushing the seals down the arm. On later years at least, that small end rests against a flattened platform like area on the pedal arm. Once installed the toe plate is replaced and seals should push down slightly taking the pedal with them and provide a solid seal to the plate.

I believe some have mentioned that Steele's items are fairly soft rubber and IMO, they do not seem to last very long before the rubber cracks at the bellows and the pieces separate. After that experience on mine I wound up making a mold using a deteriorated set as a pattern to get the approx shape and thickness. Kept the original flat rubber end of a broken seal for the top and replaced the middle bellows portion with an expandable flexible urethane foam product which bonded to the other piece to provide a stronger yet still slightly compressible center.

Posted on: 1/9 15:49:11
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Re: Looking to buy 47 Master Brake Cylinder
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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Wes, if you buy the repro master from Kanter be sure to order the two different size copper washers also. Mine were in bad shape to be reused and at the time (and maybe still), they normally don't come as part of the master. They are sizes not commonly used today so I found hard to source locally. Required trips to several different parts stores to match and find them both.

Posted on: 1/9 10:04:08
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