hph

See the 6 part Weber State presentation on universal joints.


https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=weber+state+university+universal+joint+repair&mid=867BFD15D883D1662255867BFD15D883D1662255&FORM=VIRE


Edit: Sorry that link didn't work . . . seems it goes to a Weber Grill site. A search for the text "weber state university universal joint repair" works.

dp

hph

Does service data indicate the end cover wear tolerance, or a lapping procedure to restore the cover finish?

dp

Dhart1977
A Carter 502S is a carburetor intended for a Hudson, with 1.187 main venturi diameter, and 1.25 throttle plate diameter. The 502 does have anti-percolation valves, but no starter switch or distributor vacuum port.

A Carter 644S is a carburetor intended for a Packard, with 1.125 (smaller) main venturi diameter, and 1.25 (equal) throttle plate diameter. The 644 does have anti-percolation valves, and both a starter switch and distributor vacuum port.

The diameter of the primary venturi is the same for both carburetors (11/32 inch). The external linkage differs between the two items.

Implication: Based on the larger main venturi size the Hudson carburetor would likely have a higher CFM rating. The distributor vacuum could be connected directly to the intake manifold, while an auxiliary starter switch would suffice. External linkage may (emphasis on vague) be swapped. The entire throttle shaft would need to be swapped, and that’s an overhaul step that I for one avoid. New linkage from the firewall to the carburetor would likely solve the incompatibility.

With the difference in the main venturi size avoid a comparison between the jet/rod sizes. At any given airflow a larger main venturi will result in less airflow through the primary venturi, and thus less suction on the discharge nozzle. To achieve the same fuel flow with less suction the main jet / metering rod flow area must increase. The Hudson 502 main jet is 0.086 inch diameter, with a power step rod diameter of 0.044 inch. The Packard 644 main jet is 0.0846 inch diameter, with a power step rod diameter of 0.045 inch. Resulting in a Hudson fuel flow area 0.00858 in**2, and a Packard fuel flow area 0.00806 in**2 (both on the power step). The difference in fuel flow area is to accommodate (likely at constant air/fuel ratio) the main venturi size change . . . a 502 equipped engine will not likely run any ‘richer’ or ‘leaner’ than the same engine with a 644 installed.

dp

With respect to our difficulty of removing rear axle hubs:

The tire kicking wisdom among the Brand X crowd is to loosen the axle nut to next to nothing and drive the car around the block. The claim is the hub will loosen during the short drive. The Brand X rear axle design is quite similar, that is tapered & keyed, albeit a much smaller in size when compared to Packard size(s).

I bought a ‘rubber’ elbow from Home Depot’s plumbing department. The plan is/was to clamp the elbow onto/around the hub and fill with penetrating oil up to the height of the axle . . . square key ‘up’ just in-case there’s a direct path for the fluid. I haven’t tried it yet, but will in the future. My plan was to try the penetrating oil trick many hours before the barbarism of the hub puller. Once wetted with oil some care would be needed if ‘open flame’ heat is subsequently applied. Perhaps the process should be wet, wait, and then drive around the block (nut reinstalled with minimum torque) before the puller is used.

I suspect we have all been influenced by our professional experiences . . . a fraction of my experience was to avoid anything that could Brinell a bearing. Since most of the force generated by the hammer blow is ultimately reacted at the bearing Brinelling damage a distinct possibility. I suspect the useful life to the bearing would be reduced, but after 75 years no one would ever know, or likely care, if a bearing failure is premature. In work we were especially obsessed with bearing damage during transportation of our product, and would frequently remind each other how the ‘metal never forgets’ . . . even in the back of a truck on the way to a New York airport . . . those roads being noted for ‘pot holes’ the size of national parks.

From a bearing durability stand-point a hub puller that had a provision for a hex socket that would be used with a modern impact wrench, in my mind, would be superior to the ‘hammer only’ puller design, especially if the current bearings are intended to be packed and reused.

dp

Hph, see KPack’s project blog (page 64, post 633) for a file that covers many of the details of servicing the rear axle.

See: Re: KPack [Project Blogs] - Packard Motor Car Information (packardinfo.com)

Additions to the supplement that were identified during Kevin’s project were:

1. A note to lubricate the inner seal with gear oil, especially if a new seal is being installed.
2. A note to lubricate the outer seal with either gear oil or bearing grease, especially if a new seal is being installed.
3. A note on the addition of a series of center punch marks if a loose fit is encountered between the outer bearing race and the axle housing bore.

The pinion seal may be replaced in situ. The key element is returning the pinion bearing preload back to the level is was prior to the seal replacement, while is done by placing the pinion nut in the same position, relative to the pinion gear, at the conclusion of the procedure.

See: Re: 1953 Clipper Ultramatic pinion nut size [Post-War (1946-54)] - Packard Motor Car Information (packardinfo.com)

dp

Corey

I’ve looked at several installed -142 and -229 springs, and the difference between the two is not obvious. I do have a thermally damaged 644S air horn complete with all of the giggly bits associated with the choke, unloader and high idle components. Available for donation, PM if interested.

dp

I did jump to the conclusion that the product in post #1 was designed for a 12 volt negative ground system, and the wiring features a singular negative ground lead. With two turn signals and a brake light that would be three wires plus a common ground. I think I see five wires, red, green, yellow, black, and white, so the bar may also have a running light connection . . . still a common ground, which if it is indeed a 12V-, polarity sensitive LED accessory, it would be difficult to install on a 6 volt positive ground system without additional circuitry (switched positive). I see on William Grosz’s solution both the positive and negative leads are available, which would be suitable for either polarity.

All of that aside, Craig, how long is this light bar?

dp

Likely yes, there may be issues at 6 volts. I've been successful with single LEDs on 6 volts, but not arrays. I have been looking at optically isolated ICs that can switch up to 3A on the load side, with only 5-10 mA required on the 6 volt input side. See Panasonic AQV252G. The plan is/was to let the 6 volt bulb circuit trigger the IC thus completing the 12 volt side circuit. A simple 6+ to 12- converter would be used to power the LEDs.

dp

CCR

I notice that fast idle cam springs 61-142 and 61-229 are found on many Packard WDOs. Actually there are very few part numbers for these springs across the entire WDO product line, all applications. I’ve got a 643S which should have a 61-229 spring and a 644S that should have a 61-142 spring. I also have a ‘parts carb’ from a Hudson that might still have a serviceable 61-142 spring. I’ll take a good look at the two Packard carbs to see if the springs appear to be interchangeable . . . likely something is different, but other than spring rate I’m at a loss to predict why one spring would need to be different. Surely it scratched some itch, but it’s not clear to me what that might be. The cam itself, part number 181-110S, is used in both the 643S and 644S carburetors. If the Hudson 61-142 looks serviceable I’m willing to donate to the cause. Give me a day or two to photograph and determine the details and whether the Hudson spring is OK.

dp

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a centered tapped 12 volt automotive battery, but the idea of using two Optima 6 volt units is definitely one way to make one. There is some advice in this site about using two batteries in series, that is; 1) the same type i.e. group number are used, and 2) the two batteries are roughly the same age. If the battery box in your ’51 is the same as used in a ’54 Cavalier, then two Optima’s will fit just fine. . . however you’ll need to fabricate a ‘custom’ hold-down.

The comments about 6 volt positive ground systems working adequately are well founded. Perhaps you can let us know what you are trying to accomplish by switching to 12 volt positive ground while retaining the 6 volt power to the starter motor . . . and perhaps other un-identified systems, such as the OEM radio. If the voltage swap is only to run an AC, then we’ve got at least one example (my ’54) that is a 6+ car that has an AC installed. I suggest you search this site on ‘air condition’, and review the thread titled ‘Aftermarket Air Conditioning’. So far, we’ve kicked-around mounting brackets, suitability of using a 12 volt clutch coil, but have left the subject of the evaporator fans alone . . . at least up to this point.

dp