Kevin

I used POR-15 on Brand-X’s exhaust manifold. That’s about 20 years ago, and other than a little dulling that part doesn’t have any rust. The coating was marketed as a high temperature paint that would give the appearance of cast iron. It surely looks like a freshly sand blasted exhaust manifold, but I don’t know about calling it paint. The consistency was close to room temperature butter, and you could brush it out forever. IIRC I was stippling more than flowing the coating on. I used a small tinner’s brush, and was quite surprised how infrequently I had to go back to the jar for more product. It reminded me of aluminum based anti-seize where just the slightest amount results in your fingers turning silver. I’m based in Phoenix AZ, so perhaps the lack of rust is just the way it is, and the POR-15 didn’t have anything to do with the longevity. I’ve used other POR-15 products that once you open the container you better use it all, because the atmospheric moisture begins the curing, but this high temperature coating doesn’t seem to cure in the can. I just went-out to the garage and opened the can, and 20 years later, it was just as I had remembered . . . warm butter, but today a bit of separation of whatever the vehicle is (looks like an oil). It almost looks like the debris you find on magnets in differentials or automatic transmissions. If I ever have the opportunity I’ll use on the Packards.

I went onto the POR website and couldn’t tell whether what they sell today is the same product that I bought 20 years ago. I did run into a product Calyx Manifold Restoration Paint Dressing that looks like the stuff. They talk about applying with a tooth brush or with a gloved covered finger. The price is about $20 for a 3 oz jar, or roughly ½ the price of POR . . . assuming a 3 oz jar is a lifetime supply.

dp

I use this switch on my ’48 . . . mounted just forward of the battery. It disconnects the ground (+).

delcity.net/store/Eaton-Bussmann-Heavy!Duty-Disconnect-Switch/p_4873.h_169051

Specs are:
2000A, 20% duty cycle, 5 sec duration per event
400 A continuous

Lately it has become quite expensive. I'm not sure I would be eager at the current price, but functions quite well. Features a bit of spring loading in both the ON, or OFF positions. Remember this type of switch rarely MAKES or BREAKS with a load applied, so the contacts should last 'forever' . . . at least the life of the switch.

dp

Seems Amazon has sets of Grade 8 thick washers also.

From experience I can add that the light switch circuit breaker can be R&R’d with the switch installed. By the way, the technical data that I’ve come across on this type of breaker suggests a typical circuit breaker has about a fifty-cycle life if repeatedly overloaded. The information didn’t add was the electrical state of the breaker after failure . . . I suspect the circuit is opened. A quick check could be made with a test light. The breaker should have power on both poles, if however, power appears on only one pole the breaker has failed, which would appear very much like a switch failure.

PS. I bet the aforementioned cycle life is voltage dependent . . . lower is better.

dp

I must admit I’ve assumed the shape is elliptical, but once the dimensions are determined I will supply a table of X,Y coordinates for the profile of one quadrant based on aa ¼ inch grid . . . in that way a knife guide template could be made locally.
dp

Tristar500

See
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=256349&

If not equipped with a by-pass loop, vane pumps should be powered at all times . . . quite acceptable if the mechanical pump is removed.

Impulse/solenoid type pumps may be used to prime/clear vapor lock with a mechanical pump installed. Otherwise, they may be unpowered during normal engine operation . . . no by-pass loop required.

dp

The 'ropes' in my '54 are about 32"long and approximately 1 1/2" diameter. The material appears to be something like crepe paper, with an over braid of lacing cord. One end is wound with a string, but I think that was adding later to stop the fraying. See photos

dp

Attach file:

---

  DSCF1001.JPG (706.16 KB)


  DSCF1010.JPG (634.20 KB)

Bill B

I re-read your question and have concluded you might have a short key. There’s nothing wrong with that if the shorter length avoids the curved surface in the axle produced by the key cutter. I would test fit the key as far inward (toward the differential) as it can go, but not too far to have an interference fit with the curved surface. Then measure the distance from the key to the shoulder on the axle near the thread. Once you re-assemble the drum/hub you have an appreciation on what the maximum gap might be between the hub and the end of the key.

dp

Bill B

IIRC the key is dressed, or may be dressed to have a curved surface on one side of one end. If your key has such a feature that faces towards inward meaning toward center line of the axle shaft and the toward the differential.

The hub has key way slot that is broached such that the full length is rectangular (constant geometry). The axle was machined with a key cutter, and has a rectangular entry near the axle nut thread. However as the cutter approaches the bearing area the procession of the cutter advancement is paused. This area of the keyway slot will have a circular surface of the same diameter as the cutter.

Take a look at your axle and determine:
1.) Does the axle have such keyway cutter geometry?
2.) Does the key have a ground end that matches the axle geometry?

If you answer ‘yes’ to both questions then of the eight ways the key could be installed only one is correct!

If you don’t have a key with the ground curved surface then you will be required to make one or use a shorter key. The worst thing you can do is attempt to force a square key into the curved portion of the slot, so if you are using a square key make sure the end at the axle nut tread seats properly, and the total length does not allow interference at the radius formed by the cutter. I believe in either case, the key is held captive by the cutter curved surface, and the washer at the nut. If a shorter key is used the captive characteristic is not defeated. Remember if the key is a bit outboard the torque on the rear axle nut will push the key flush to the outboard surface of the hub. If you use a shorter key you might consider putting a slight chamfer on the surface that may contact the curved feature.

I suspect a ‘best practice’ would be install the key and hub and put about 1/2 of the required torque, and then remove the nut and washer and inspect. The key should not be proud to the hub.

dp

53 Cavalier

My experience with Carter carburetors is if there is a drilled, or drilled and tapped, hole that intersects a shaft, then that hole is the preferred location to apply shaft lubrication/oil. For an equivalent shaft the WDO dust cover has oiling instructions cast into the cover. The holes in the WDO do not have felt inserts, so I would not expect to see them in a WCFB. I other worlds lubricating the carburetor throttle shaft is on the 500 mile maintenance schedule.

Bye the way, and just as a reminder, the float level for Daytona float valve equipped carburetors is adjusted by adding/subtracting gaskets between the valve body and the carburetor casting. The tang on the float should touch the center of the Daytona valve.

dp