"Might it be tinned copper which you mistook for aluminum."

I Could have jumped to conclusions as wiring was not magnetic

Thanks, hope you are right as I am not a fan of AL wiring.

I was surprised to find the wiring behind the dash is aluminum.

I don't know if I asked this on another thread but are the backlit #s on the gauges, clock, and speedometer radioactive? My little bulbs do not seem to do much in the way of illumination.

What is the size of these little bulbs on the prewar Packards?

I experienced the same. Apparently there was some attempt at defusing the bulb light through the red lens. Softening the white material with a damp Q-tip and gently picking away a portion of the material will give you the brightness you desire.

A Question I have is the numbers on the back of the speedometer dial appear to be some material that once was activated by the lower bulb in the speedometer.

Was this some radioactive material??. My numbers do not seem to illuminate above a low glow?

While you are back there with the speedometer out, relace insulation on the rat's nest of wires back there. I see why these things burn up so often.

Thanks, Good advice. Bigger the better and no one will see behind the dash.

More good stuff.
20 AMP was in line but blown.
Replaced with 20 AMP fuse.
Will go deeper.

Thanks a lot. You were dead on. Frayed wire and problem bulb. 20 AMP blown fuse in line. What should proper fuse rating be?

Crushed old insulation off, removed spring on bulb socket and insulated at the socket and 6 inches back with heat shrink insulation.

Wiring behind dash is a rat's nest. Like to do the rest of the wiring restoration. Why this thing did not burn up decades ago?.

How much trouble is it to remove the left dash to gain access to the rat's nest?.

Can anyone post a photo of the rear of the speedometer assembly? Hate to remove this thing again to locate the bulb sockets...

Replacing light bulbs in sockets in back of the dash. When instrument panel lights are turned on, They show dimly for about 5 seconds and then begin flashing in 1-second intervals as if a relay is operating in the circuit. What is going on?

Replace the condenser and carry a spare. My 39 120 has AGAIN the same symptoms and last time it was the condenser . Anyone have any ideas on why a car would be using up condensers ?

What all sheet metal has to be removed to take out the radiator on a 39 120 ?

I am starting to realize I may have to remove the "plate" from the rear of the dash - with the dash in place; a task I don't relish . My knuckles are just healing up from my struggles with mirrors and neck cramps in dealing with the fuel gauge.