I don't understand how calling the junknet is somehow political.

Attached is a photo of a controller I made up. Push the button and the transistor turns on. Push it again and the transistor turns off. It runs on 6 volts.

The transistor runs to 85/86 on a relay that carries a 40 amp load. I bought the parts on junkbay because Radio Shack stores are gone. I tried about nine different circuits from the junknet until I found one that works. The transistor part I added myself. I forgot that I have the old Radio Shack do it yourself circuits book around here someplace.

I have been trying for months to get stone delivered. Everything on the junknet and junklist is a scam. Even the listing in the printed yellow pages is no help. I have driven to places and found a vacant lot. I don't call it the junknet for nothing. I tried to find a dump truck for rent and those sites are scams.

Think about that.

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Some people have no sense of humor.

What's wrong with calling it the junknet, junktube, or junkbay?

I bought something at junk-Mart. So what?

I bought something at junk-Depot. Big deal.

I'm old enough to remember the New York Central Railroad.

How about this one? I don't go to junkdonalds or junk-in-the-box.

Drop the zero from those two 38 Su8 and add a lot of dedication maybe something could happen, but not in my lifetime.

That looks like a radio noise suppressor.

There are two cheap ways to test those things. One is buy a multi-meter with the capacitance testing function. I have a KAL (poor man's Sun) 3001 which cost $30 bucks on junkbay. Another is to test the resistance and use a chart that gives the capacitance for the reading in Ohms.

Bottom line for these condensers is if you look in the specifications, they give the capacitance in micro farads (.18-.28) and you can put any old electrolytic capacitor from junkbay in there to make the car run. The purpose of the thing is to absorb the voltage spike from the collapsing magnetic field in the primary windings when the points open. Not the best method, but it was cheap.

I suppose the can types sold for the distributor are somewhat heavier duty than those used for a radio or TV.

That 38 Su8 looks like a case where they stopped paying the bills and the car was pushed outside. Great parts car especially in the block isn't cracked.

4.36 is the standard ratio. Glad to see my memory is holding up in my old age despite some of the medical malpractice I have been subjected to.

There isn't one. You can use judgement or check the ASTM guidelines on the junknet and use that. Run them snug and tighten using a short wrench as came in the tool kit. I have some of those wrenches floating around here and they are 4 1/4 inches long. It's a fine thread as well which increases the clamping force. For the timing cover you need to ensure the gasket is being squeezed enough not to leak.

Looking at the housing from the front the number should be stamped on the flange lower right.

Keep in mind the unit for the Eight is not the same as the Su8 and Twelve. However, the gears for the Eight are interchangeable for 33-36. 4.36 standard 4.69 and 4.07 optional.

Check Lubriplate site. They have a dealer locator. Number 4 gear oil is non-EP 90 weight.

90 weight gear oil is ISO 150 in case you need that number.

They show mail order dealers as well in case you don't want to use junkazon.

That car was built with a single tail light, brake, and reverse light combo on the drivers side. A lot of people add a second light by cutting the standard light stantion, turning it 180 degrees and welding it. Sometimes because they want turn signals, other times because think it looks cool, or because they think it is safer. For the latter I would add one of those brighter modern lights that can be removed for display if safety is the higher priority. The same goes for turn signals given the taillight is miniscule.

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