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   All Posts (Mark Graber)


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Re: Brake pedal removal / help appreciated!
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2011/11/28 20:57
From Palmer, AK
Posts: 381
Jason,
My '47 is a different design, but if you haven't already, I would take a look at the Part Diagram Plate #63 in the Parts list on this site. Doesn't show very clearly, but might give you some clues until someone else chimes in. From the diagram, it looks to me that the zerk end should have a c-clip or something to hold that end in place. I see the parts list calls for 1.30655 "retaining ring".
Good luck,
Mark

Posted on: 9/2 20:56:17
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Re: Brake adjustment
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2011/11/28 20:57
From Palmer, AK
Posts: 381
I had to walk away from this project for a while. Meantime, I obtained four NOS drums and had the shoes arced using the Speedwell Garage method. Thanks Ross, my machinist says it worked great! I also procured a couple of NOS anchor pins to try out.

However, much to my disappointment, my adjustment problems continue. No matter which method I use, either Ross's or a feeler gauge, I cannot get the secondary shoe equalized. I get drag at the bottom of the shoe, and clearance at the top. The anchor pin reaches maximum throw without moving the top of shoe close enough to the drum. The problem is at all four brakes.

I purchased the shoes from Max and I suppose it is possible, but very unlikely that I have the wrong shoes.

Guidance and ideas from you guys would be much appreciated.

Mark

Posted on: 7/9 17:54:37
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Re: Brake adjustment
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Joined:
2011/11/28 20:57
From Palmer, AK
Posts: 381
Thanks for the interest guys. No skimping here - if you ever looked at my stack of parts and labor bills...the shoes are brand new, bonded not riveted, so a shim is not an option as far as I know.

Have you guys ever tried to find a place to arc your shoes? I called nearly a dozen shops, AACA club friends, etc. Seems almost nobody does that anymore, especially up here. Internet search reveals widespread difficulty finding that service. Apparently, modern drum brake users replace the drum and brake shoes as a pre-arced set or let the shoes "wear in", with frequent adjustments till they do.

I might be able to find a shop in the lower 48 and ship all 4 sets of drums and shoes down there and back. Don't ask about shipping costs.

For folks in my situation, my research found several recommendations to "wear in" the shoes, which is the approach I am going with.

The other three wheels center up nicely, with less clearance at the middle of the shoe, as I would expect. So, I'm going to try a new anchor pin for the problem wheel and see if that works.

Thanks for the interest and input fellas.

Mark

Posted on: 6/2 17:14:19
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Brake adjustment
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Joined:
2011/11/28 20:57
From Palmer, AK
Posts: 381
Hi everybody,
I am trying to finish a brake job on my '47 custom super. I am at the final adjustment phase and I am having trouble centering the shoes. I've read Ross's advice and consulted the manual and Motor's.

Here's the problem. I've started with the right front wheel. I keep ending up rotating the anchor pin screw 90 degrees forward. At this point there is a lot of clearance at the top of the shoe and none at the bottom of the secondary shoe.

Am I right n thinking that the eccentric screw is at its maximum effective position to move the top of the shoe toward the drum?

I could not find anyone to arc the shoes and they are undersize, but even so, shouldn't I be able to get the clearance equalized between the top and bottom of the shoe?

Wondering if the eccentric has worn such that it no longer will push the top of the shoe far enough?

Suggestions/guidance much appreciated.
Mark

Posted on: 5/31 10:38:41
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Re: arcing brake shoes
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2011/11/28 20:57
From Palmer, AK
Posts: 381
Thanks OD for sharing your knowledge. You know what they say about the internet.
Shoes are not riveted, so will have to arc them. Appreciate the help,
Mark

Posted on: 4/28 17:25:37
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arcing brake shoes
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2011/11/28 20:57
From Palmer, AK
Posts: 381
First time doing a brake job and wondering about arcing the shoes. I've read that the shoes should make contact at their center first, and then the shoe flexes to make full contact at both ends of the shoe. That tells me that the arc of the shoe results in a smaller circle than the drum.

When I hold one end of a new shoe against the drum, there is a resulting gap of .035-.040 at the other end of the shoe. Is that acceptable such that the shoe will wear in? I've read about a method of using sandpaper adhered to the inside of the drum and sanding the shoe accordingly. Don't want to try this unless I have to.

What do you guys think? Thanks, Mark

Posted on: 4/28 15:57:35
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Re: axle shim material
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Joined:
2011/11/28 20:57
From Palmer, AK
Posts: 381
Thanks Howard and Ross,

I am working on a 47 custom super that uses shims as shown in photo, lower right. Ross, you are right I need to decrease thickness, but right now I have a single .030 shim that yields and end play of just over .007 - the high end of the recommended range. So, I planned on making several shims and stacking them, shooting for a thickness of .028.

Howard, your idea of sandwiching between Masonite is brilliant.

Ross, am sending you a PM.


Thanks guys.

Attach file:



png  AXLE .png (291.36 KB)
4217_5cb38bf92dd39.png 640X480 px

Posted on: 4/14 12:37:29
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axle shim material
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Joined:
2011/11/28 20:57
From Palmer, AK
Posts: 381
I am attempting to make some rear axle shims from brass sheets. Trying to keep things flat and unbent. Do you folks have any tips? So far, I am thinking of using contact cement or something, and glue the sheet to thin plywood. Then I could drill and file without bending the shim stock. How would you guys do this?
Thanks,
Mark

Posted on: 4/14 10:43:40
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Re: '47 356 modern thermostat
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Joined:
2011/11/28 20:57
From Palmer, AK
Posts: 381
Howard, you are infallible....91 DOES fit. Long story, chalk this up to numbers confusion at the parts desk. I'll try and get the x-ref expanded to include 21st series 356. Napa's database is incorrect.
Thanks,
Mark

Posted on: 2018/9/11 17:08
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'47 356 modern thermostat
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Joined:
2011/11/28 20:57
From Palmer, AK
Posts: 381
Hi Guys,
I would like to try a modern pellet type thermostat, with the standard temperature range, for my '47 custom super (356).

Our parts x-ref for the 48-50 356 lists Napa #91 but it has a flange that is too small. Napa's online search for a '47 356 is incorrect - parts 530060 and 530080 are also too small.

Max has the pellet style, but in a high temp version.

Have any of you folks found a standard range in a pellet style?


Thanks,
Mark

Posted on: 2018/9/11 15:21
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