Fred - that is the 40-47 style requiring the longer manifold studs and the cross clamps. you would have to sell him the intake with it to work, as the intake has the raised portion to coordinate with the later manifold clamps.

Remi - I no longer have a 37-39 available.

Engine is long since sold and gone to the right owner/home/car. In fact, I delivered it to his garage door....planets just happen to align on that day.
NO, no others on the radar at present. Post your specific needs/issues and with any luck (which you will need for 385 stuff), someone might be able to help.

DAF

Have good used 10-24C 36-120 carburetor on the shelf. Used, but not warped. ready for you (or whomever) to rebuild, nothing frozen or busted.

DAF

OK, been to storage, Have intake/exhaust combo, 36-120, also carburetor as noted on other post. flackmaster@sbcglobal.net pictures on my phone... 214-549-1250

you are probably turning the brass cover over the fastener. the tool pictured is about what I made, which is necessary to turn the "bolt" under the cover. small snap ring pliers just distort. This is one of those jobs...

I've had some occasional luck turning the switch from the backside A LITTLE BIT to break the threads loose, then with a homemade tool.

Maybe.

Consider this part of your 37-120 initiation ritual.

DAF

There is no set screw in the knob. its the brass skin over the captive "nut" bezel that is the problem. Snap ring pliers are about as close to the proper tool as your gonna get. its those two access points where you are targeting magic potions. and the backside of the dash if you can see/get to the backside.

Not easy, often stuck, which is why bobJ even drafted remaking the knob/bezel/shaft. Wish he did. He'd sell about 2 a year, no doubt making millions$$$. I'm asked for replacement knobs ALL the time....Once I had a tool made better than snap ring pliers, crude, but it worked, just cut a slice in a piece of cheap steel, ground it and bent two tips. Used it a couple times, lent it out and never saw it again...


DAF

sidemount trim, 1938-39 Henney.

i will supply the short trim piece after the back of the hood and the ornament. You need the center hood stainless, I definitely do NOT have.
As for the pivot, i think you can remove the ball studs and use your rod with a pin clip? i will look again for the vertical rod....

Have found a friend with the center hood stainless moulding...call me tomorrow...

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agree with Howard...most likely headlight relay to lower amperage going through headlight switch.

Rock - I can answer, sort of. negative on using Vintiques wheels, unless you want to fabricate some sort of hubcap. As you are resto-rodding, there are a couple, limited, options for wheels, depending on axles and front suspension setups you choose. Call me at your convenience, evenings best.

DAF