Wow! You fellows are terrific. Really quick and helpful. One gives me specific part numbers and one says run it! I like that.
Actually, I may need to cleanup the threads and go for it. As a beginner, I don't want to let something slide when it should be repaired properly.
Thanks for the input, everyone.
Ed

I appreciate the explanation. The piece I am having trouble with is the piece you described as the 'mount stub', on the front of the engine.

I'm going to try to attach a pic... wish me luck

That knob or stub is actually pressed into the divider plate that bolts to the front of the engine. Unless I can repair that damage, I need to replace that plate.

Any ideas on a repair or replacement piece?

As for the picture, it is at the bottom but does not show in a preview... hope you can see it.

Just noticed, the pic is upside down. You can see the metal is breaking away at the side of the bolt hole.

Thanks,
Ed

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I'm doing some cleanup on my 288 s8, and have a couple of questions...

First, about that front motor mount. Seems with an engine that heavy there would be a hefty motor mount or side mounts. Is that mount really up to the task? I know, it's been there for 70 years, let it go Ed.

When I was painting the engine I noticed the 'bull' or 'stub' or the part that the mount bolts to on the front of the engine. The part that is moulded into that plate on the front of the engine... that piece is failing, breaking. Are those available anywhere? And what is that piece called?

Wow! Thanks for the interest.

This was supposed to be a quick inexpensive project until I started and commented 'ya, since I'm doing this, I might as well...'. You know you've lost control when those words escape.

I had been working on a 34 chev Pu, fit the doors and could actually get inside, when I recognized I would never be comfortable in it. Not enough distance between firewall and back of cab, even with a seat having no padding in back. Bummer. Legit set for months before deciding I want the truck, but need to lengthen the cab. Really gonna have to up my game with a welder to take that on.

I had the rear shell/bucket of a 24 Overland, Cowl for a Model T, a frame laying out back, had recently picked up a running 1950 Packard engine and OD trans. How much could it take? Ignorance is bliss, explains my smile. I'd never done anything like that before. But building an open roadster body would result in some experience with bodywork.

I started with the body, extending the lower edge of the bucket and building a framework on the inside. I propped up the T cowl and decided there would not be enough room fo a trans and peddles. I had a 34 chev Pu cowl, way to big and wrong taper in the quarters to match the bucket. My venture into bodywork began... had to narrow it, shorten it and change the taper, then fabricate the splice between the chev and overland parts. As I said, ignorance is bliss. Finally wrapped that up to some extent and moved into storage and started on the frame.

In the meantime I picked up a trailer load of parts, front/rear axles and suspension, flathead V8, trans, radiator, two complete sets of tires n wheels, one set of wires and one set of wide 5's, all for 37 ford. The brakes had been upgraded to 1940, hydraulic brakes. Sold off the V8, trans, radiator, wire wheels n tires. Totally paid off the purchase and still had the axles, suspension, and wide 5 wheels and other bits n pieces.

The frame was an early T truck frame, straight rails. Z'ed the frame, front n rear. Actually, lots more time figuring what, how much, where, how, to make changes. I don't remember if I had mentioned, I've never done any of this before. Spending as much on tools as car parts. A part of Z'ing the frame was to fabricate the cross bracing to work with the axles n suspension, and get the right stance, estimating how much the suspension will settled with that engine n trans in place. Then boxed the frame and bolted the axles n suspension in place. Alright, progress,

I set the engine on the frame, checking for stance and fit. Looking good, Fabricate mounts. What's with the front mount on that engine? Never seen such a thing, but it must work! Tried to remove the engine with mounts... back to the drawing board... got that sorted out, over time.

Ultimately, just a couple of weeks ago, I was able to put the body on the frame, with the engine and added the radiator shell, '27 whippet. Looks great, No, wait, too much sticking out the back.

Brings us to where I am now, just beginning to put the frame back together.

Wow, 18 months of labor condensed to one rambling, meandering story. Hope not to boring, but still smiling, remember, ignorance is bliss.

Hope this isn't too long. Thanks again for the interest.

Ed

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Thanks for all the feedback and discussion, everyone. I appreciate it.

Yes, I'm installing this package in a narrow frame with insufficient space for the clutch linkage... I know, poor planning. Its like how many ways are there to shoot yourself in the foot? No matter the number you think, the answer is 'MORE'. I thinking I'm checking out most of them...

I'm building an open roadster, kind of a T Bucket kind of a thing. Except, want it more comfortable than any I've seen, longer and a little wider, incorporate some of the old hot rod ideas, cowl steering, Duvall windshield, wide 5 wheels, etc.

Its like, when you go to a car show, you can't have more power, shinier paint, more chrome, or make more noise. Most, don't recognize the craftsmanship that goes into any of these rides, especially those that are a real restoration. You've got to have something distinct without being weird. So this little ride will be that, not a hot rod, maybe a cool rod. Should scoot along well, be fun and interesting, and not too expensive... If you don't consider the time it has taken to build it.

OK, so now, maybe I can contribute something to this group of Packard experts, if anyone is interested. I've explained my need for the Hydraulic Throw Out Bearing. I have found at least one source for that piece. McCloud sells a bearing for it. I haven't installed peddles or hydraulic fluid, but if it works as sold, it will work right out of the box.

I think Tilton also sells one that will work, but opted for the McCloud product. Both will work with the stock 3 fingered Pressure Plate.

Thanks for listening to my rambling, and again, all of the feedback.

Rusty

I am in the process of resurrecting a 1950 288 w/OD. Prior to installation, Id like to replace the clutch/pressure plate and due to clearance (non-stock), I'd like to upgrade to a hydraulic throw-out bearing.

It has a 10" clutch and the pressure plate has the '3 fingers' for the throw-out bearing to ride on.

I understand there are pressure plates that have a diaphragm movement rather than the 3-finger movement. Apparently, to make this work, I need the diaphragm variety.

Does anyone have any numbers and sources.

Thanks for any ideas. I'm not trying to make a hot rod, just a distinctive ride. Where better to start than Packard.

Ed...

An earlier reply didn't take, so I'll try it again...

Yeah, this fine old machine resides in my back yard. That video was taken before I found it, so I had nothing to do with that posting!

The tracks are a Conversion kit you could buy in the late 30's. It is the only machine I know of, with that kit, and I've never spoken with anyone that has seen one.

When I purchased it, the radiator wasn't connected. I was able to connect it up and install the original fanblade. Of course the first problem was when the original fanbelt came apart. Most of you, at this site will know the effort to put a new fanbelt on it. That pump probably hadn't been rotated since nearly new. As a friend commented, "you will use a gallon of penetrating oil, heat all of the parts, pound and pry on it, and it still won't move"... He was almost right, I was successful in adjusting the tension on the new belt, but it took more than a week...

The number that is stamped on the engine, on the passenger side, is *U18463*. It still has the brass tag, with a vehicle number U18491A. When I registered it on this site, I showed it as a '22. When I tried to put in '24, it wanted to show it as an 8 cylinder engine.

Now I've taken over this link, and I really didn't intend to do that. However, to the query asking if I would sell it, I have sent a PM.

Oh, yeah, the picture:

Thanks for the patience.

Ed....

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I have an early 20's single six, actually an entire driveline. It makes a pretty cool old farm machine, but it might be available to a restoration project. It starts and runs, shifts, all of that.

Ed...

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