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Re: 1928 driveshaft diameter
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Joined:
2012/10/10 21:02
From Gig Harbor, Wa
Posts: 130
My machinist stated he could not bore out the trunions as they were too hard. He did not state the hardness but said a file could not even scratch the surfaces. When asked if the trunion pin could be replaced he noted that unless it was then heat treated it would wear out quickly. I have decided that I will take the best of both assemblies and put together one driveshaft to use. If I then have further issues later, I will go for fabricating a new driveshaft with modern UJoints.

Still curious about the different diameter between the Australian and US shafts.

Posted on: 6/30 10:23:40
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1928 driveshaft diameter
Home away from home
Joined:
2012/10/10 21:02
From Gig Harbor, Wa
Posts: 130
Had quite a shock when my machinist told me that the components of the U-joints were hardened and he could not drill out and sleeve the trunions. Since I have an Australian parts car of same year and model I decided to see what those components looked like. Sure enough there was less slop in the trunion bearings but the shaft trunions were more worn than my originals. Looking to use the best of both to assemble one unit, I found something strange. The left hand drive shaft is one diameter from end to end but the Australian shaft is larger diameter for most of the middle and tapers to the same diameter as the US one. As such, I cannot remove the trunion bearing plate from the shaft as I can with the US model. Did the Australian car have a different year shaft and U-joint assembly or were there different diameters based on some other reason such as rear end gearing, etc. Anyone know what is going on?

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jpg  trunion1.jpg (91.85 KB)
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jpg  trunion 2.jpg (92.84 KB)
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jpg  trunion3.jpg (84.59 KB)
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Posted on: 6/28 15:05:13
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1928 radiator cap bale too tall
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Joined:
2012/10/10 21:02
From Gig Harbor, Wa
Posts: 130
Does anyone know how to reduce the gap between the radiator cap and the spring steel bale so it fits tightly when raised over the radiator cap? I tried to compress the height of the bale in a vise but it would not compress. Did they have different sizes of bales? The one for the gas cap works great.

Posted on: 6/23 20:05:24
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Re: 1928 526 battery/starter issue
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Joined:
2012/10/10 21:02
From Gig Harbor, Wa
Posts: 130
I had the starter tested and the battery tested. Both were good. Went back to the battery cable ground post and cleaned the frame where it connected and reattached. Everything worked great. Starter turned the motor over fine. It was just a poor ground. Had enough to spin the starter but not good enough to start the car(throw the bendix gear into the flywheel). Now on to the next issue, missing drive shaft universal joint gasket bushings.

Posted on: 6/23 6:54:11
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1928 526 battery/starter issue
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Joined:
2012/10/10 21:02
From Gig Harbor, Wa
Posts: 130
Purchased a 6 volt 50 amp hour Optima battery for my 6 cyl. When the engine was rebuilt, it was started with the same starter but 7 years ago. Not sure what battery he used. Have not started the motor since then but rotate the crankshaft by hand every month. Now the starter spins but the bendix gear will not spin out to engage the flywheel. I cleaned and re-lubricated the spiral gear and shaft but still will not spin out.

Is the issue the 50 AH battery or the starter? Handbook calls out for a 6v 100AH battery. If starter, what can I do to get the bendix to engage.

Posted on: 6/18 17:45:35
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Re: 1928 wiring distribution question
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Joined:
2012/10/10 21:02
From Gig Harbor, Wa
Posts: 130
Yes, it is the box where the battery to starter switch cable exits into the engine compartment.

You have also answered my other query of what size circuit breaker to install in the light system. I am not going to use the vibrating C/B as I so not trust it so will use a self resetting breaker instead. I will get a 30 amp module.

Posted on: 5/29 20:07:46
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1928 wiring distribution question
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Joined:
2012/10/10 21:02
From Gig Harbor, Wa
Posts: 130
Can anyone provide me with a photo of the box located inside the frame of a 1928 car where the big wires from the battery come into the engine compartment?

Posted on: 5/26 9:52:48
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Aftermarket circuit breaker for my 1928 526
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Joined:
2012/10/10 21:02
From Gig Harbor, Wa
Posts: 130
Still going to run at 6 volts but do not trust the old stock circuit breaker. Want to get an auto reset breaker but do not know what amperage to get for my 6 cyl with stock lights and bulbs. Any help?

Posted on: 5/21 20:01:53
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Re: 533 Chassis Oiler
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Joined:
2012/10/10 21:02
From Gig Harbor, Wa
Posts: 130
I am in the process of replacing all of my 1928 526 Bijur lubrication components. I have cleaned or purchased new metering cartridges. I have replaced all of the lines with new copper and had the tank rebuilt. One issue was the soldered Tee fittings. I could not get them soldered right so I replaced those joints with brass compression fittings. Just waiting on 5 more half barrel compression sleeves from Bruce Blevins to complete the restoration.

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jpg  bijur1.jpg (120.60 KB)
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jpg  bijur2.jpg (116.24 KB)
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Posted on: 5/18 8:37:40
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Re: Modern lubrication suggestions
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Joined:
2012/10/10 21:02
From Gig Harbor, Wa
Posts: 130
SAE160 is very stiff. I cannot find it at most shops. I use sae90 in my rear end. Would it be too thin for the transmission?

Posted on: 4/1 13:13:30
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