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Board index » All Posts (billhawley)




Re: 1934 1100 Timing
#1
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bill Hawley
If I am interpreting the picture correctly, I'm looking in from the left side. Is that correct? If so, I do not have said bracket, nor for that matter do I see the timing marks on what I assume is the vibration damper. Also, is the 1933-1936 parts list a document that is available somewhere?

Posted on: 2023/6/23 19:18
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Re: 1934 1100 Timing
#2
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bill Hawley
Owen, I too would like to check the timing on my 1100 and am looking at this exchange. In the photos provided it looks like where he is looking at the timing marks is on the left side of the engine and that there is a bracket attached to those two bolts on the front of the engine that is used as the index point for the timing. My car does not have that bracket, which I am assuming is a problem? Any suggestions?
Thanks, Bill

Posted on: 2023/6/23 15:26
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Re: 1934 headlight mount and radiator
#3
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bill Hawley
Owen, on a prior inquiry I was asking about cleaning the inside of the radiator. I think you advised oxalic acid. Being unfamiliar with what that is I looked it up and its listed as a wood cleaner? Anyhow, I was wondering why you recommend that instead of something like CLR or Zep? Will those type of products damage the core?

Thanks Bill

Posted on: 2023/4/27 14:58
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Re: 1934 headlight mount and radiator
#4
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bill Hawley
Thanks for the information. Most helpful.

Bill

Posted on: 2023/4/5 13:05
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Re: 1934 headlight mount and radiator
#5
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bill Hawley
Thanks guys for the info. When you say heavy, do you have a guesstimate of how heavy? Is it something two guys can handle?
Also, does the post for the headlight support just sort of telescope out of the way?

Posted on: 2023/4/4 12:42
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1934 headlight mount and radiator
#6
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bill Hawley
The headlight support is attached to the radiator housing via three bolts...at least the cover/retainer plate is. If I pull those three bolts out it looks like the mounting post sits in a kind of rubber cradle. Do I have that right? I ask because I was planning to remove the radiator and not remove the whole headlight assembly. Does that make sense?
While I'm on the subject, it looks like the radiator and shell need to come out as a unit? Do I have that right? Also, it looks like the radiator/shell combination sits in a kind of cradle and is retained at the bottom with two studs that each sit in a rubber mount and are retained with pinned nuts. It is retained at the top with the two struts that go to the firewall. In addition there are the six headlight bolts, three on either side. Is there anything else?

Posted on: 2023/4/3 16:27
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1934 Radiator removal
#7
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bill Hawley
I have been chasing a problem with the car not cooling. I've forward and reverse flushed both the engine and the radiator at least two times each. I have taken the water pump off and it seems to be functioning correctly. I took the water jacket cover off. The cylinder bank looks OK. The water jacket cover is intact and unobstructed to all the holes. My guess is the radiator has some clogs in it, a by-product of using an ill advised cylinder head repair solution some time ago. Bottom line is that I think I need to take a hard look at doing something with the radiator. So...any suggestions of what to look out for or do?

Posted on: 2023/1/12 15:24
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Re: 1934 eight cooling system
#8
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bill Hawley
Well, patience and two weeks of soaking in liquid wrench paid off and I finally got the sylphon(?) valve out of the radiator. For some reason the shaft and the springs were fairly rusted. I've been cleaning them up and have cleaned up the exterior of the valve. I am curious as to how it actually works. I assume there is some sort of spring or something that expands as it gets hot? I lowered the exterior into boiling water and did not see the shaft move so I'm thinking it is not functioning. Is there any way to disassemble the valve to clean and repair it?

Posted on: 2022/10/9 13:22
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Re: 1934 eight cooling system
#9
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bill Hawley
Thank you guys for the responses. There are numerous questions and ideas posed here so I will comment or answer each one, hopefully:
1. I've tried to remove the sylphon but even after soaking the screws in liquid wrench every day for a couple of weeks, 5 of the screws won't budge. After seeing what it looks like on a separate post I'm not sure of the utility of taking it out at this point since I can just set the louvers open. It doesn't look like it has much to do with the flow in the radiator.
2. I did have a blown head gasket some time back and replaced it with a new one from Olsen. When I was removing the head I noticed a hair line crack on the top. I had it magnafluxed. The only evidence is on the top. I used JB weld in an attempt to stop any propagation, then rigged a test set up to pressurize the interior of the head (to a low value) and detected no gasses escaping. I also have no evidence of water in the oil or anything like that. I know its not optimum, but that's what I've got.
3. The flow tester info you sent Own is interesting. Thank you for that. I don't have a 55 gallon drum of a calibrated flow handle like shown in the picture but maybe I can rig something up.
4. Both hoses are stiff and do not collapse during operation.
5. I live 10 miles out of a small town that does not have a great deal of services and could not get the car to a radiator shop in any case.

I look through the radiator with a light and see that it has several tubes that run straight from top to bottom, although it seems they are of small diameter. Does that sound like the right core or is it possible this radiator has had the core replaced?

Posted on: 2022/10/3 13:20
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1934 eight cooling system
#10
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bill Hawley
It's bee a while since I posted because I generally work slowly and in spurts. Bottom line is that I can't get my car to not overheat. I've forward and back flushed the radiator and the engine separately twice. I've taken the water pump off and looked at it to see if it's intact. It is. It looks old but otherwise OK. I've removed the water jacket cover and inspected the passage. It's clear. Everything seems to be flowing. Water coming out the bottom hose is cooler than water entering the top hose. Temperatures along the water jacket cover seem pretty consistent.
Whenever I run the car, within about 10 minutes the water temperature gets to 200+ and I can hear it starting to hiss out of the overflow. The bellows device seems stuck so I have been operating the car with the louvers wide open.
I feel like it must be the radiator. I know you have advised me to not take the radiator out but I am running out of ideas. Should the water temperature in normal conditions be somewhere around 180 F?

Posted on: 2022/10/1 17:22
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