Thanks for finding that. My first thought is that the sequence was cost reduction>>service problem>>remedial action.

Yet, the vast majority of trans that have been through here over the years have the two steel washer and bronze washer combo and that is not usually a problem area.

Have never quite figured out which ones got the ball bearing thrust and which ones the thrust washers.

To get the turbines apart, hold the whole assembly in the air by the reactor shaft with one hand and give a fairly sharp blow downward on the outer rim.

What a bargain--a gorgeous (1956) 400 interior and a 55 400 thrown in for free. Someone snatch that up.

Just take a heavy hammer and beat them straight on a big rock. They are just mild steel and there is no benefit to replacing them. They got bent sometime in the past because someone bypassed the limit switches and ran the motor too far. That is why I am STRONGLY against manual override switches on TL cars--I just repaired a customer's car as a result of that foolishness 2 weeks ago.....

Clean the decayed rubber off of your switches and build up some epoxy way up onto the wires. They love to fatigue off just above the solder joint. Check for continuity.

Any old lithium grease will be just fine. The secret to a reliable and very quiet leveler is the ball bearing that locates the worm shaft in the upper housing. Condensation tended to collect there. Pop that little freeze plug out and excavate for the snap ring. I think the bearing is about $12 from NAPA and is worth every penny. Pack the bearing cavity and the worm area well with grease.

Your trans oil looks clean because all the mung has settled out. It is in there waiting for you.

There is no Type A anymore. Just dump in some Dexron--but not modern "power steering fluid".

That is just stunning. Would love to see some more pictures including the interior. Congratulations.

I will put in my plea early: do not restore it. Ever so carefully clean and polish it and do whatever is necessary to preserve it. Thoroughly go through every mechanical system so it is reliable to drive. It will be ever so much more valuable long term not to mention interesting if you can keep it largely as the factory built it. If you restore it, the car will be just another one on the show field and will be picked to bits instead of studied and enjoyed.

As Owen said, they are sealed bearings and the grease sealed inside was refined while Eisenhower was president. It has turned to something a bit like ear wax on a winters day so if you are doing a major service on the car I recommend new bearings. They are easy to come by as they were used on all manner of Ford products from '49 up.

Should pop back in just a few seconds and you should be able to hear the air going back in.

It is often helpful to take the cover off the can and loosen the cover plate screws on the power piston. Wiggle the piston about and cycle the unit a couple of times before re-tightening the screws. This will get your leather nicely centered and seated.

The good news is that your engine does not have a rear main seal. It relies on a slinger on the back of the crankshaft. That strip is just to seal between the clutch cover and the back of the pan.

Further to your other post: Since you have the fenders off and away why not just unbolt the front motor mount arch from the frame and jack the motor up an inch or two? That will ease getting to the pan bolts and clearing the steering.

All the toe plates were pierced for a clutch pedal. In Ultra cars a piece of that black insulation was glued over it. Just put a couple of layers of Noico over it and call it a day.

The V8 pan will bolt on but the dipstick does not come up at a usable place. Could possibly bend your own tube.

You will have to cut a floor brace to make access for your existing dipstick.

I find it easier to to do a good reseal job on the trans and then only check it every 5 years or so unless there is the sudden appearance of a puddle.