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Had car out today for first time an the driver side parking brake locked up. Jacked up car removed tire loosened up brake shoes with an old brake adjustment tool which I haven't used probably in 30 years. Beat on drum a bit with rubber hammer but couldn't get brake drum off. Brake cable freed up so did brake shoe. Not sure if this repair is permanent. Would like to inspect brake shoes and cylinders, is a mechanical puller of some type normally used to get the rear brake drums off? Don't remember having to use a puller on my old 50's cars.

Yes, you need to use a heavy duty puller designed to remove the rear brake drums. There are many, many threads with instructions and photos on the site but here's the first one I came up with.

Thanks for the info., looks like a big job. As my brake pedal only moves an inch or so before engaging the brakes maybe I don't need to check the back brakes now. The pedal feels very firm as well. My concern is why the parking brake locked up on the drive side and can it happen again? When the rear brake drum is removed should the rear bearing be replaced as well?

I wouldn't be surprised if there is some corrosion or rust in the sheath protecting the emergency cable between the frame mount and the backing plate. If there is some corrosion the cable could seize and not fully release one side. Another possibility is if the wire rope has started to deteriorate and a strand or two of wire has broken. It doesn't take much to unravel before a jam.

I don't think you can easily release the cable from the actuating lever inside the assy without removing the drum but if like the later cars, possibly you could unbolt the lower end of sheath from backing plate and take the upper end out of the frame bracket. Once sheath is free it should be able to slide up the cable so you can at least examine and lubricate the section of wire rope normally covered.

Removing a rear drum is a very simple job though it does require a good drum puller and some patience. As to the wheel bearings, were it me I'd check for evidence of a leaking outer seal and pull the backing plate and clean and inspect the wheel bearing. Rear wheel bearings as long as the axle shaft end-play is within spec and the lubrication of the bearing attended to usually last 100,000 miles, often much more. If the bearing is suspect, change it and also change the inner seal and then I'd check the opposite side bearing and seal as well.