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Re: Cylinder and piston wear
#11
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Ken_P
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Thanks to all! The crack is external, about two inches long, on the drivers side of the block between cylinders four and five. There is a picture below. It weeps water cold.

How do I measure for worn valve guides? Is it lateral motion of a valve placed in the guide, measured with a dial indicator, or is it diameter of the valve guide? I also have one valve guide (#2 exhaust) that is raised up quite a bit. I was planning on just pushing it back down. Interestingly enough, this was not one of my broken valve springs. Any thoughts on what to drive it back down with? In the absence of the special Packard tool, I was planning on using a hardwood dowel or brass drift punch, to avoid mushrooming the guide.

EDIT: The valve guide is not clipped; it is raised up.

My generic engine overhaul book just got here today, so I'll read up some more before I finish my inspections.

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Posted on: 2014/10/1 17:26
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?start=0&topic_id=6550&order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: Cylinder and piston wear
#12
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Owen_Dyneto
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The crack is characteristic of those caused by freezing, i.e. lack of sufficient antifreeze.

You can measure the valve guides with a split-ball type of bore gauge which is then measured with a micrometer - I'll give a picture of one, also recognize the wear can be bell-shaped, more at the extremes than the center. You can also get an approximation of guide wear by inserting a NEW valve (thus no stem wear) and rocking it back and forth against a dial indicator. Exhaust valve guides have a tough environment to live in, I'd replace any that are even slightly suspect. Valve guides are driven in with a valve guide driver, KD-815 (2nd from left, with broken tip) is NLA, also shown are some others that I've made and used. You can have one turned from mild steel - the small bore that fits inside the guide should be 11/32nds and the first step MUST be smaller than the OD of the guide. Hammer should probably be a 4#.

Chilling new guides in dry ice make installation a snap. If the lifters are still in place, remove the old ones by driving down part way and then snapping them off with a cold chisel (much easier than it sounds, they are very brittle) and then continue driving the remainder down and out. As best I can tell from your photo the seats look pretty good and nice and narrow, if they are all like that, just a hand-lapping with valve grinding compound should do the trick.

This might be a useful primer for you:http://www.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=862

Note the Starrett gauge pictured is NOT the correct size for Packard valve guide measurement.

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Posted on: 2014/10/1 17:49
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