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All,

What is the best way to remove a rear brake drum that is stuck to the axle? I made a puller that fastens to the lug nuts and pushes on the end of the axle (similar to what is shown in a service manual), but even though it pushed VERY hard, there was no movement.

Should I apply heat?

The car is a '49 super 8.

John from KC

If the drum has not been removed for years you may be in for a long haul. Some have resorted to heat but without that much success. It really depends on the axle and how tight and how long the drum has been installed.

Not sure how big your puller might be but small ones don't do much. The usual procedure is to loosen the nut a few turns but keep it on the axle. Install the heavy duty puller and hit it with a heavy hammer. Give it several blows on the tightening arm and if it doesn't pop off walk away. Come back every now and then and give the thing another blow or two with the hammer and walk away again. It can take hours or days but eventually it gives way with a loud bang -- hence the reason for the nut staying on. Without the nut the drum can fly a considerable distance when it breaks free.

This is one of those topics that gets beat to death ( I'm trying a little humor here, because it's not easy.). See the following link:
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=9552&forum=2&post_id=101789#forumpost101789
Wes

John, if you're in the neighborhood (Riverside), you can borrow my dog-bone puller. You really need a heavy duty puller and hammer.

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When JD said hammer, He means the BIGGEST HAMMER you can get. My first hub, when it finally popped off (I did leave the nut on.) it sounded like a gun was fired and this is after I had beat on it for a long time and had just walk away from it.
Wes

I've used a pneumatic hammer with a 1" round head to remove drums from spindles. I would think, in this case, that combined with the specified puller and an occasional squirt of penetrating oil would help in removing the drum a little quicker. I apply the penetrating oil first, use the air hammer to help set a vibration into the stuck parts. Everyone has a favorite penetrant, and I nearly always use PB Blaster. Stinks to me, but hasn't failed yet.

Knowing what a bear it will likely be to remove the drums on my decrepit ride, I think I'll have to buy that puller sooner than later.

Good luck with the drum.

Warm regards!

This works pretty quickly because of increased leverage. It uses the same 3-prong puller, but banging on a dogbone with a BFH is pretty much a waste of time and effort, IMO. Remember Archimedes:

"Give me a lever long enough and I can move the earth."



Of course, this is an engineer's, not a mechanic's, solution.

Craig

Here's an ad from a 1947 Automotive Digest.
Wes

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JD

It is very kind of you to offer. I will accept asap!

The puller I made was a 5" bolt circle out of 1/4" plate. I welded a piece of 2 1/2" exhaust pipe to extend over the hub. I then made a 1/4" thick end to which I welded a 3/4" nut. I used a grade 8 bolt with an old universal joint spider cup for a bearing surface to push with. I greased the bolt.

I gave it all I could, but got no movement.

The 1/4" plates were bowing pretty badly.

See picture (if it works).

John from KC

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JD

It is very kind of you to offer. I will accept asap!

The puller I made was a 5" bolt circle out of 1/4" plate. I welded a piece of 2 1/2" exhaust pipe to extend over the hub. I then made a 1/4" thick end to which I welded a 3/4" nut. I used a grade 8 bolt with an old universal joint spider cup for a bearing surface to push with. I greased the bolt.

I gave it all I could, but got no movement.

The 1/4" plates were bowing pretty badly.

See picture (if it works).

John from KC

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