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Hi Everyone - after nearly 5 years of ownership of my 1948 Packard 22nd Series I have just realised that I have a rather large hole under the hood of my car. This hole is behind the battery location so looking upwards with the front right hand wheel removed I can see the side of the battery - the hole is about 12" long and about 6" high so if I ever take her out for a run in the rain water and any dirt therein will enter the engine compartment. There are some small holes on the edge of the hole possibly for self-tapping screws to secure a small panel to cover the hole.

The latter is a simple job, my question is what was this hole for ?

Best regards from the UK

Michael

Apparently there was a concern about the battery experiencing higher temperatures as it was relocated from under the front seat to the engine compartment with the advent of the Clipper body type, the opening was for cooling. There may have been a thin rubber seal around the opening to somewhat seal it, others will know.

Thanks for that info.

So do I leave the hole as it is and put up with any water/dirt getting into the engine bay or has the passage of time meant it has proved to be safe to close off the hole to keep everything water/dirt tight ?

Cheers Michael

Why not use the holes for the sheet metal screws to fasten a little rubber lip seal against the battery to keep road dirt from entering the engine compartment? I'm reasonably sure that's the way it was originally. I would not close the opening.

No that would not work - my car is RHD and despite being fitted with the correct "American" style long thin and high battery originally (which would have covered the hole) -very early on in it's life that would have been discarded and the traditional "British" style battery put in as the "American" style would not be available in Rhodesia where the car began it's life.

The original long thin shaped battery tray now has a different tray over it to accommodate the U.K style battery which being less in height does NOT cover the hole or indeed sit snugly up against the hole as the original would have done.

Any more thoughts on this welcome.

Cheers Michael

PHOTOS ADDED 1) SHOWS VIEW FROM WHEEL ARCH THE OTHERS ARE SHOTS FROM ABOVE LOOKING DOWN ONTO THE BATTERY - YOU CAN SEE THE REMNANTS OF THE OLD TRAY AND THE TRAY OVER THE TO WITH THE BATTERY INSITU.

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As O_D mentioned, if you have the long battery it is easy to replace the rubber seal for that stock look. Whether the opening is needed for the original purpose is open to debate. I believe some using small Optima batteries have elected to cover the hole with a sheet metal panel. With your situation that might be the option if you want to eliminate the opening.

If anyone does want to do the seal, finding the proper sized original L shaped rubber in a small quantity proved to be easier said than done. I elected to do mine using readily available U shaped rubber edge trim. Was able to buy that in a 10' length which was enough for the opening and to do both sides upper panel seals to bottom panel splashers. By cutting off one side of the U the resulting L shape remaining was 1/8 thick with 1" x 3/4" legs so within a gnats whisker of being the correct size.

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Looks to me the original "long" battery tray is below the smaller one in the photo. There's ample airflow so just make a sheet metal or rubber "patch" as the opening has a detent where it installs. Clip on, if you don't want holes.

So HH56 - Is the panel with the hole for battery ventilation directly above the lower fender splasher that you recommend removing to get better access for the battery tray removal ?

Where did you get the "u" shaped rubber edge trim?

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The upper panel goes to the tray level and the lower panel from that point downward to the frame. I had the fender off when doing mine but by removing the tire and both panels it is almost as accessible. You can reach all the bolts to the battery tray from the wheel side but it still takes a bit of back and forth and twisting to maneuver the tray out from between the brake tubing and clutch spring. Without removing at least the bottom panel and trying to do everything from inside the engine compt I'm not sure you can slide and tilt enough to clear the clutch adjust spring sticking thru on the rear and the brake tube which lies over the front leg of tray.

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McMaster-Carr

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