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I'm changing the motor in my 48 Coupe, not sure the model, but it's a club coupe, 327 with a 3 speed. got a few questions.

I've changed a few motors and transmissions over the years, and once pulled and reinstalled a 3 speed out of my 54 Packard hearse laying on my back on gravel with no jack. But - this one is quite a different animal.

First problem is, there is not enough room to pull the transmission back due to the x crossmenber. I did get it out, over my pit, using a transmission jack, but it didn't come out straight, and I had to angle the engine down so much the oil pan was laying on the tie rod when it finally made it out. There is no way it's going back that way. Can I assume it must go in as a unit with the motor? That would seem to be quite an inefficient way to replace the clutch.

Second problem is, the spring holding the arm with the throwout bearing is connected to the collar on the front of the transmission. I managed to get it off after the transmission was out a little bit, but I'm sure that isn't what is intended. Putting it back is probably going to take a little more knowledge than I have right now. It may becomne obvious when I have it all out on the floor, but if you have any hints, please send them along. This can't be new territory for most of you Packard veterans. (I'm a wayward MOPAR guy, but I sure like this thing!)

Just for grins, I'll pass along my experience calling the parts houses today, looking for pan and manifold gasket sets. First one thought I was saying Acura. Took a while to get her to understand Packard. Her - "Who makes it?" Me - "Packard". Her, "No, what company makes it? What is it a model of". Me - "Packard Motor Company, they made them over 50 years." Her - "I can't find that in my computer". Me - "I guess we're done, huh?".

Next one - "How do you spell that?". Me - "PACKARD". After a lot of time in the computer, he says "I'll go back and get the books." I think, great, we might get somewhere. Him - "OK, I'm finding something now. Is it AMC?" "Nope, older." Him "I find Pacer, is that it?" Me, "No that is that bubble looking POS they made in the 60's. I don't think we're going to find anything. Thanks."

Oh, if anyone has the fel pro or victor numbers for the manifold and pan gaskets, it might help. I'll probably just have to order it from Kanter or one of those, but with numbers I might find it locally.

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Yes, that is a very entertaining setup to service.

First, you remove the throwout bearing spring by removing the bottom cover of the bell housing. Then some long nose needle nose will do the job.

The drill for trans in and out is a two step: pull the trans out of the clutch till it is free. Now tilt the trans till the nose is hitting the top of the pilot hole in the bell housing and push it forward. Drop the tail of the trans down and remove it.

If you are changing engine and trans together then the easiest is to remove the radiator and splasher and cut the crossbrace on the radiator cradle. With a little finagling you can pull or install the whole unit with it hanging at a fairly steep angle.

It a very heavy motor (w/ trans, etc. ~1000 lbs) so make sure you have the proper lifting equipment to do it safely. It's been discussed on here many times so look back at the old posts. Hints and experiences.
It's easier to pull everything together, I did it myself('49), but as Ross notes, you have to disassemble.
You probably don't want to do that if your trying to get other motor back in quick but it may be quicker, I don't know. Depends on your skill and equipment. I get some helpers.

It's been too many years since I changed the clutch or rebuilt a trans in a 22/23rd series to recall exactly how I removed the trans, but for sure I did not have to pull the engine/trans assembly. I will look at the svc manual when i get a chance

At least I was 't overlooking something real basic. These tips help a lot. I don't recall having to do anything special on the 54, so I guess they changed things in later models.

As to gaskets, went to my old time machine shop, since he keeps all his old books and looked up gaskets. Not only found them, he had a set on the shelf, minus the head gasket, which I don't need. Fel pro FS7628S.

I have a skidloader with forks to pull and replace the motor, and a track loader to back that up if needed. What I'm missing is knowledge, and you guys are helping with that. Thanks.

Hi

What ails the engine in the car now? Are you going to rebuild it or have another 327 ready to install?

You came to the right place for advice, many have been through the process, documented their work in their project blogs. I suggest you also start a project blog in that section to post questions and show your progress, we all like to follow along. It also makes it easier to find responses to your questions later. Good luck.

Steve

It's stuck, which I can probably solve. But the block is also cracked. It's been welded about 8" horizontally just below the head, center, driver's side. Plus, below that, where the water jacket returns to the cylinders, it has a long crack that appears to have been JB welded. But it's obviously been leaking. A "new" long block that supposedly has around 29k miles makes me a lot happier. Got the pan off right now, appears to be correct mileage from looks.

Car was restored about 20 years ago, appears to have been a quality, frame off job, probably new floor, certainly no rust or dents. The guy knew nothing about cars, tried to drive it and a Studebaker with similar history, all the time. At every little problem he had to get a tow, hire a mechanic and got tired of it. 10 years ago he drove them into his barn and left them. Now in his 80's, put his farm up for sale recently, it sold right off and he just had an auction.

Motor, brakes and fuel system needed attention. Tank is in the radiator shop getting boiled and lined, found wheel cylinders at NAPA for $10 each, new hoses, shoes at Kantor and a motor from another forum member. Gasket set on the shelf at my local machine shop.

All that seems to be missing is time. And getting out the last broken manifold stud. I've taken out a couple dozen before, but the last one on this block has me baffled so far.

Still working my way to getting the motor out. I did a search on removing the radiator, which seems like a problem. Some said it will come out the top with the top brace in place, some said you have to remove it. Someone in this thread mentioned cutting it out of the way.

I can't seem to get the radiator out with it in place. The top outlet won't clear. If I remove the fan and lower hose, will I have enough room, or am I just making more work? It would seem that it was designed to come out straight up. Am I fighting a losing battle?

I'll have to say, the engineers on this should have had to spend some time in the field working on things before they got to design anything.

The radiator does come out without too much difficulty on the 22-23 series but it is heavy. Once the hood is lifted off and bolts undone it should tilt and move forward a small amount and then lift straight up. I believe the front end of the side inner fender panels are mounted to the sides of the cradle on the 22-23 series. If not, and they are mounted to the back of the cradle and radiator as 47s are those may need to loosen or possibly come off too. It would help to remove the fan for the additional clearance and lessen chance of damage but if you remove the belt, generally you can maneuver the lower hose connection in between a couple of fan blades and let the fan turn as you lift the radiator up. I would suggest a piece of heavy cardboard over the core for protection as you are maneuvering it around the water pump.

Thanks. I'll get on it tomorrow. Didn't seem to move enough to clear the top outlet, but I'll give it my best shot.

Gene