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Delco Remy Distributor 1110811
#1
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Ernie Vitucci
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Good Morning all...I need to change the condenser on this distributor for our 1949 288 Deluxe. I can see the screw that holds the condenser clamp, at the bottom, but I don't see how the wire detaches at the top of the distributor. It looks like it might go into a clamp but I'm not sure. What is the correct way to disconnect the wire? Thanks, Ernie

Posted on: 2017/1/4 12:14
Caretaker of the 1949-288 Deluxe Touring Sedan
'Miss Prudence' and the 1931 Model A Ford Tudor 'Miss Princess'
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Re: Delco Remy Distributor 1110811
#2
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fredkanter
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The wire goes to a binding post on the point set. Loosen the small nut and pull the wire up

Posted on: 2017/1/4 13:57
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Re: Delco Remy Distributor 1110811
#3
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Ernie Vitucci
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Thank you Fred...We have a NAPA store around the corner and they had a six volt condencer from Echlin, number RR174 that I installed and the old girl started right up! She is still missing on the second half of the throttle and back firing a bit...so I'll have to start to figure that out tomorrow. It could be the coil, I guess, but it is only about 3 years old. I guess the old girl is just grumpy...I'll have to speak softly and see what happens. Thanks, Ernie

Posted on: 2017/1/4 16:30
Caretaker of the 1949-288 Deluxe Touring Sedan
'Miss Prudence' and the 1931 Model A Ford Tudor 'Miss Princess'
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Re: Delco Remy Distributor 1110811
#4
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HH56
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I am curious if there are any specs listed for the RR174. Didn't see any on the Napa site other than it was listed as an alternator condenser.

Reason I ask is a wrong or failing condenser can contribute to point arcing and burning and an erratic spark. In the ign training manual Packard mentioned being sure to use the correct value for the car and coil and not to substitute other value condensers when dealing with burned points.

Did you happen to burnish your points after the condenser install. If not, then on the chance they were burned or oxidized suggest doing that and see if you still have the issues.

Posted on: 2017/1/4 17:09
Howard
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Re: Delco Remy Distributor 1110811
#5
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fredkanter
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"Missing on second half of throttle"??? Explain more??

Missing when standing still and accel is pushed down or missing when driving under load?? Suspects, point adjustment/burnt or bad dist cap??

Posted on: 2017/1/4 17:30
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Re: Delco Remy Distributor 1110811
#6
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Ernie Vitucci
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Good afternoon all...What I meant by missing on the second half was when the throttle is more than half depressed when moving fairly fast in second gear and then on the road at 45 mph or more.

I took the old girl to a far more skilled friend today and he put the distributor on a sun distributor machine and made some adjustments. Points were too close, the cam dwell angle was slightly off, the distributor cap and rotor were fine, a spring had come loose on a metering rod in the carburator, one spark plug had a piece of the insulator broken off, and the plug wires were for a more modern machine, they are not steel or coper wire. I received a new set for Christmas, so they will be going in tomorrow. The old girl is running much better, once the plug is replaced and the wires are changed, we'll see what we have left to do. I'll get a hold of Fred's guys on Monday and order a correct condenser...but at least NAPA had one that would get the old girl running....Thanks, Ernie

Posted on: 2017/1/5 19:15
Caretaker of the 1949-288 Deluxe Touring Sedan
'Miss Prudence' and the 1931 Model A Ford Tudor 'Miss Princess'
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Re: Delco Remy Distributor 1110811
#7
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Fish'n Jim
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Diagnosing points based vehicles is becoming a dying art. I'm sure everyone will have their own methods on here and I'll be rebuked, no doubt, but;
Of all the things mentioned, if she's "missing", I'd put the condenser and coil in last order. Usually, if those are bad, it won't start or be hard to.
A condenser can be checked with a meter, to see if it's in spec or not. I saw a recent article from an old timer master where he showed NOS condensers go bad on the shelf, and new ones often aren't good, so even if you change it could be faulty or not to spec. So check. The ones at the store may have sat a long time in today's market.
What I was taught;
Check plugs first. Then points, cap/rotor, and wires. We always changed the condenser with the points because it's a cheapie, and later you could even get new points sets with it built in, so you replace it all as one unit. I like to use the induction timing light and go around each cylinder and check to make sure it's sparking consistently before tearing apart. We had inline type back in the day when I started. Induction type came later. Often just one cylinder is the issue, like a loose wire, plug, etc..
Timing should also be checked after the points are adjusted. The idle speed has to be correct rpm.
Most places no longer have the distributor machines, so you're fortunate. I've been looking for one... Another dying art: adjusting/checking distributor timing centrifugal advance curves...
Over time, wear on the points cam lobes occur so the factory gap settings may not be ensuring the points close. I prefer to set on dwell. Cams aren't easy to replace if you can find one, or make one. At that point, it's a simple swop to change to a "pointless" electronic ignition which is independent of a mechanical cam follower, but has to be a 6V in this case.
And if the ignition all checks out, you get bigger internal engine problems.

Posted on: 2017/1/8 9:42
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Re: Delco Remy Distributor 1110811
#8
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fredkanter
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I don't buy the new "wisdom" that condensers on the shelf or brand new condensers are likely to be defective. We've sold over 10,000 of both types and cannot recall having any customer complaints.


As to checking everything in the ignition system and still having the problem, then the next step being internal engine diagnosis, I again disagree. Carburetor diagnosis would be next. The only internal engine problem that would give the problem described would be valve float from (several) extremely weak valve springs, highly unlikely.

Posted on: 2017/1/8 11:07
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Re: Delco Remy Distributor 1110811
#9
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JWL
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I was taught the three basics in engine tune-up - Compression, Ignition/Electrical, and Fuel - in that order.

Can't have a good running engine without good compression. Ignition comes next because these items are subject to wear. Don't forget to make sure the electrical system is up to snuff (battery, generator/alternator, starter, and all their connections). You would be surprised at the problems a failing battery can provide. Finally, the fuel system.

It is a systematic approach that assures the problem(s) will be fixed and unnecessary ones will not be created. That is unless there is something obviously wrong.

(o[]o)

Posted on: 2017/1/8 13:14
We move toward
And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)
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Re: Delco Remy Distributor 1110811
#10
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Ernie Vitucci
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Good Morning all...Believe it or not, it rained here in the Desert yesterday and so I changed one bad spark plug and installed new plug wires on 'Miss Prudence' and she is once more happy! She is a good girl and it doesn't take much to keep her happy. Thanks for all your help. Ernie

Posted on: 2017/1/15 11:25
Caretaker of the 1949-288 Deluxe Touring Sedan
'Miss Prudence' and the 1931 Model A Ford Tudor 'Miss Princess'
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