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1948 door latch
#1
Just popping in
Just popping in

8deluxe
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Packard lovers, I'm bringing out my 48 deluxe 8 club sedan after 15 years in storage. the drivers door latch is broken and I cannot open the door to remove and service the latch. A small piece of flat metal about an inch long x 1/4"broke and fell out of the latch. Is there a way to release the mechanism and open the door? Don

Posted on: 2017/3/30 12:04
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Re: 1948 door latch
#2
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HH56
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Is the upholstered inner panel still installed? Am assuming since you were able to retrieve and describe the metal it is not or did the metal drop outside the door. Do both handles just flop loosely or feel normal. Is one or both blocked in some fashion?

Posted on: 2017/3/30 13:08
Howard
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Re: 1948 door latch
#3
Just popping in
Just popping in

8deluxe
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it appears the broken piece is what either handle would have pushed against inside the latch. I fished it out with a magnet. Even with the inner panel off I can't figure out how to release the clog or whatever keeps the latch wheel from turning to allow the door to open. Page 69 of this forum has pictures. 4th down small box on bottom with spring and two rivet/shafts for latch wheel is where the broken piece came from.

Posted on: 2017/3/30 13:32
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Re: 1948 door latch
#4
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HH56
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Here is a photo of the outer handle. It just pivots to move a solid part of the casting into contact with a movable piece of the latch. When contact is made it pushes that latch piece inward to operate the lock wheel release mechanism.

Is this the latch in the photo you referred to? If so, it is a convertible door latch but very similar to the others. The the outer handle pushes against the curved plate at the black arrow. That straight in motion in turn is transmitted to the odd shaped pivot piece and at the yellow arrow, to another part which moves up and down. The inside door handle connects via a long bar at "A" and operates another lever which transmits its motion to effectively the same vertical piece as that operated at the yellow arrow but just a bit farther down at the green arrow. When that vertical piece moves it releases some more parts behind the vertical flat cover piece and once those other parts are moved the wheel is free to turn and door can open.

When the lock button is pushed it moves a piece at the white arrow which prevents the other pieces from moving.

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Posted on: 2017/3/30 14:06
Howard
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Re: 1948 door latch
#5
Just popping in
Just popping in

8deluxe
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this is the broken piece. it came from behind the vertical plate and must be the vertical moving piece. there is nothing for the yellow or green arrows to push against.I'v tried to poke behind the vertical plate but nothing seems to move

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Posted on: 2017/3/30 16:31
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Re: 1948 door latch
#6
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Ozstatman
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G'day Don(8deluxe),
to PackardInfo and for including your '48 Deluxe Eight Club Sedan in the Packard Owner's Registry, looks good!

Posted on: 2017/3/30 16:43
Mal
/o[]o\
====

Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia
"Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche.

1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD

1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD

1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

What's this?
Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry!
Here's how!
Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com
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Re: 1948 door latch
#7
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HH56
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I don't have a 48 latch assy to play with or photo so I can't tell exactly what is broken or offer any really helpful suggestions.

Since the door latches are mirror images, one possibility is you might remove the latch from the other door and see if you can find what is broken and how to repair or at least what has to move to release the wheel. Unlike rears, the front door latches are relatively easy to come out. Instructions on latch removal start on page 16 in the body section of 46-50 service manual.http://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/servicemanual4650/Section4.pdf

If you can determine what has to move maybe a tool could be made to reach in and trip and release it. Unfortunately, the screws holding the broken latch on the door cannot be removed without the door being open. If that doesn't work the only other thing I can think of would be to carefully mark the hinge locations and then unbolt the hinges from the inner door supports. There MIGHT be enough room to push the front door edge out just past the fender and then forward slightly so the latch wheel clears the striker.

If trying that. you would have to be very careful not to catch the door edge on the fender and mess up the paint as well as have some kind of support for the door or some help so nothing slipped and let the door fall. The door check would still be attached by a rivet and any large movement could damage it. All it needs is to move forward. On my 47 it looks like maybe 1/2 inch or less for the wheel to clear the striker. Once clear and open slightly the hinges could be refastened. Don't forget, those doors are a lot heavier than they look and can get away from you.

Posted on: 2017/3/30 17:51
Howard
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Re: 1948 door latch
#8
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flackmaster
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not sure what the difference is to a convertible - these are convertible latches...

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Posted on: 2017/3/30 17:54
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Re: 1948 door latch
#9
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HH56
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Quote:

flackmaster wrote:
not sure what the difference is to a convertible - these are convertible latches...


Believe the difference is the lock button rod goes straight up thru finish molding on regular cars but is shorter and bent 90 degrees so knob is on the face of the upholstered panel on convertibles.

Posted on: 2017/3/30 17:58
Howard
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Re: 1948 door latch
#10
Home away from home
Home away from home

DavidPackard
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What a timely thread! This afternoon my '48 Deluxe Touring Sedan decided to have a problem with the driver's side door lock. The symptoms are;
? Outer handle works normally
? Inner handle works normally
? Door opens and closes normally as well as the latch & striker appear to function normally

The problem is with the key lock and the 'push button'. Neither seems to lock the latch mechanism. When I turn the key the button moves downward, but at the end of the rotary motion of the key the button doesn't seem to jump that small additional motion. The button returns to the full up position when the key is returned to the vertical . . . which is required to remove the key. While in the car ( or outside with the window down ) pushing the button down does not seem to reach that position where the button remains in the down position. If I push a little harder than normal the button will remain down, but the slightest amount of jarring will result in the button popping to the full up position ( probability friction holding the button down, not the 'gizmo' inside the latch).
From HH56's photo I've concluded that the functionality indicated by the black, yellow, and teal arrows are all OK. What I don't see is where the square shaft from the key cylinder enters into latch assembly. Is there perhaps a torsional spring in-play when the 'button' is full down ?
The procedure to remove and replace the cylinder lock and shaft (manual figures 22 & 23) is quite intriguing Is the needle long enough to first mark the door panel from the outside and then guide from the inside ? Or is there secret X Y door panel coordinates that only the most seasoned mechanics' know?
Back to my door problem . . . Howard if the part and camera are still available would you post additional views of the latch assembly, with special emphasis on whatever holds the latch in the locked position ?
Thanks Dp

Posted on: 2017/4/1 22:50
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