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I have a chance to purchase a distributor that is from the 1900 series 282 engine and it looks identical to my distributor 1500 120C 282CI but I did not pull my distributor to see if the shaft length or the keyway is the same? my part # is 316247 & the other distributor part # is 362884. Does anyone have a cross reference?

Based on what the 1935-41 Parts List shows (pages 69-79) I would conclude that there are few, if any interchangeable parts between the two distributors. The 316247 is an Auto-Lite IGT-4004; the 362884 is an Auto-Lite IGP-4502. Neither Packard nor Auto-Lite would show different part numbers if these distributors were identical. Looking at the distributors' internal components also shows different Auto-Lite part numbers for the 120 vs. the 1900; for instance, the drive shaft assembly for the 120C is IGT-1034-L and the 1900 is IGT-1020LB, see page 74. This divergence continues through the pointsets, cam and stop assemblies, even the distributor caps carry different part numbers. So I could only conclude that there are vast differences between the two and interchangeability is unlikely.

Don- Chuck's original post may be confusing the matter, he says at "1900 series" but also says a 282 which would be a 1901. So I understood his question as relating to a pair of 282 engine distributors, 1937 and 1941. I believe physically they will interchange in terms of installation but, without bothering to look up the specs I'm sure the centrifugal and vacuum advance curves are likely a bit different, at a minimum.

Chuck, care to clarify you original question?

The 282 cu in motor used from 37-47 all have the same camshaft, use the same headgasket, pistons and valves. That said, the differences in the advance curves must be minimal because all that is left id the differences in compression ratios. Heads are often changed without creating problems with differing compression ratios so I would say that the distributors can be changed.


Some early distributors may have a narrower/wider slot so before swapping widen it as needed with a hacksaw as some interchange manuals suggest

Rechecking for the 1901's shows the cap and rotors are identical, but the point sets are different, the shafts are different, breaker plates are different and so on. Still seems unlikely that either one could substitute for the other. A trial fitting would let us know for sure.

Yes the internals are different but the question was if entire distributors could be interchanged. Just like no parts from a Carter and Stromberg interchange, the entire carbs can be interchanged.

I very sincerely thank you for assisting me, Just so everyone understands; here is what I am interested in doing, I want to install the Petronic electronic ignition in the IGP-4502 and that is the reason I purchased the distributor if the electronic fails on a tour I will then be able to simply swap the distributor out using the original. If this later model distributor will bolt in and the shaft is the same length and then if I purchase the correct IGT-4004 vacuum advance and mechanical flyweights will they be compatible with the IGP-4502 distributor?

Based on experiences of many of my touring friends, for maximum reliability with a 6-volt positive ground system I suggest you stick with the conventional point and condenser system.

I am squarely with Owen on this one. I have had it with pushing electronic updated old cars through intersections and loading other ones up on trailers after the module blew up.

At first I was enthused and tried some on my own cars looking for the improved gas mileage and quicker starts. I'm pretty careful about gas mileage and the improvement was not there. 17 was still 17. Quicker starts? My 56 with points starts instantly once gas reaches the carb. The 51 is the same. That car would absolutely not start when chilled when I had the Pertronix in it as the voltage would dip below the trigger point while cranking.

I have reached the conclusion that the vast improvements recorded by many are in part psychological suggestion and partly genuine improvement over a system in dire need of tuneup.

I've no doubt that a fully integrated and engineered system will last faaaaaar longer than a set of points and produce a spark even when the plugs are greatly deteriorated. That is what we routinely observe with modern cars.

But in the real world of antique cars, I have driven my 50 Champion with points year round (it is the bad weather car) for 15K miles over the last 3 years. Ignition is still fine though I will probably give it a tuneup in the near future.

Make your life simpler and easier and just put a set of points and condensor in the glove box.

I agree with keeping points too. A large issue with Pertronix systems seems to relate to voltage supply. On a 12v car the voltage is reduced and regulated to the level the solid state components need and there is lots of room if the voltage drops a bit. None seem to have issues -- or at least if they do it doesn't seem to make much news.

On the 6v unit that is not the case. When starting at a voltage barely above that required by the electronics there is absolutely no room for any loss before the solid state components start acting erratically. If the starter is tired and pulls a lot of current, cables too small, battery weak, corroded terminal somewhere, or any of the other issues 6v systems are sensitive to resulting in a voltage drop problems arise. That seems to be the big thing with the 6v Pertronix as many have reported hard to start and intermittent cutting out issues.