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Howard, I was kind of thinking the second lighter knob was OEM, since it matches the radio knobs... Its been awhile since my headlight switch was on the dash and I had forgotten that it matches that as well

Thanks!!

Its been a while since I posted a proper update.

Here are some videos validating the 12v conversion

I have everything functioning as delivered from factory excluding the clock and oil light because I need a new oil pressure switch

Video 1
The "Batt" light turns on while engine is off and turns off once alternator is creating more energy than system is consuming
Turn signals and turn signal indicator
glove box light
parking lights
B pillar switch to map light
head light switch turns on dash instrument lights


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Video 2

Column indicator
"Halo" light around ignition
Courtesy lights come on when front door opens
Map light comes on when rear door opens

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0GVFrNXRJOE" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Video 3


Headlights (low beam)
Headlights (high beam)
High beam indicator

Headlight switch controls for instrument lights, column indicator and courtesy lights function as intended

To say this was a steep learning curve is an understatement, I don't think I had ever even soldered before this.

All wire connections are soldered and heat shrinked

MANY Thanks to Howard for everything!!!


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This weekend I bled the brakes after a long front disk brake conversion. Pedal feels nice and solid although a bit higher than I would desired is not extreme and I will dial it in later. I mounted the master on the firewall through the fresh air duct.

I ended up using a 1979 Chevy Malibu pedal, a custom adapter installed plate for the MC on the firewall with a retention cup for the pushrod and an adjustable push rod. GM rotors, caliper and MC and installed all new brake lines with a residual pressure valve for the rear drums

I also found what I think is a oem trunk lid on eBay for $45! It was not dried out, is in perfect condition and fits like a glove! After removing the old seal
I hit it with a wire wheel, wiper it down with prep sol, primed it with self etching primer and then installed the seal

I also put some elbow grease is shining up some bits and pieces, an example is the courtesy lights in the pics

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Nice job on the trunk lid weatherstrip!

The courtesy light really shined up nice. How will you protect it from rusting?

Thanks Paul, I enjoyed installing the trunk seal.

To protect the housing for the light I applied a Marine Sealant called DuraGloss 501. It is advertised as a polish but that's a bit misleading. In my past life I was in touch with the Duragloss chemist and learned much about their products

Anyone ever tried Sharkhidehttp://sharkhide.com/mpinfo.html for this purpose. I generally use clear enamel paint or lacquer as a protectant after the polishing and rust removal for tubes, brackets and whatever but some of the auto TV how to shows swear by this stuff because it is just wipe on and supposedly does the job without any build up..

Thanks for the info Jason, never thought of using something like this to keep a polished surface from rusting.

I've been using DuraGloss products for years. They are located less than an hour away from me in Burlington NC. I especially like their car wash which leaves a very nice shine, and also their upholstery cleaner.

HH56,thanks for the info on SharkHide. I haven't used it, but might try it out.

Howard that sounds like an interesting product!

Paul, duragloss is one of the most underrated and below the radar car car lines. I have been using their products for about a decade. Nice to "meet" another fan!