Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Now that some time has passed since the last posting. Are there any good solutions to converting 1941 hydraulic windows to electric (and still maintaining the 6 volt positive ground system)?

Your best bet would be to convert to 12V negative ground and buy some aftermarket window regulators from one of the streetrod companies. I don't know of anyone who makes 6V positive ground electric windows, or even why they would, as everyone who would do such a thing would have converted to 12V. (speaking of rodders here)

Agree with Turbopackman on lack of any 6v kits--even 6v air conditioning components are almost non existant.

If you are going to try, then think option 1 would be to find a parts car with 6v electric windows such as early 50's Ford products and adapt the mechanicals. Probably lots easier said than done. As I recall, their windows were not as tall so some linkage changes would be needed. Ford systems were also fairly elaborate with a large relay to do the directional switching so a bit of expense & complexity involved. You MIGHT find all the parts at the various Ford suppliers but a relay alone on Ebay was $199.

Option 2 might be to buy a modern mechanical kit and see if a custom motor shop can rewind that motor to 6v or adapt one that could be reworked. Turbopackman also found a place that had a 6 to 12v inverter that worked with motors. Believe it was a windshield wiper place. Anyway, if the capacity is sufficient maybe something like that would work although it might take one per window.

The hydraulic cylinders and solenoid valves for the pre war cars are being reproduced. It might be worth looking in that direction if you still have the other components. Using a modern hydraulic fluid instead of paint remover brake fluid would eliminate a lot of the old headaches. If interested in that route, there is an ebay store owned by The Convertible Doctor which carries them

It isn't necessary to destroy the authenticity, new or rebuilt components using transmission fluid results in a good, reliable system. If you must bugger it up, others have used Jeep Cherokee PW motors, and then just hidden a small 12 volt motorcycle battery in the trunk or elsewhere.

The only 6V + ground cars in the early '50s that would possibly have power windows that MAY retrofit with a lot of work would be Lincoln and Chrysler. Cadillac was 6V - ground, so that probably wouldn't work very well. I personally would fix the original system and use it. The original electro-hydraulic power windows actually work pretty well when they're fixed. I recently rode in a 1941 180 Limo with power windows and they worked excellent given the age of the car, and I wouldn't change a thing. (Hard to believe coming from me, I know.)

The problem we found (after doing it several times) with rebuilding the originals is that if the windows are not used regularly, they will fail within a couple of years. We successfully changed to electric using motors from mid 1950s Lincolns. For the division window, for one car we used a station-wagon tailgate motor, and put in a step-up converter. I can't remember what we did for the division window in the second and third car, but I think it was just another window motor from a 1950s Lincoln.

I think there is a reliable solution to using a new or rebuilt hydraulic set-up though. But I don't know where to get them.

Yes, I converted a 1941 Packard Formal to 6 volt Chrysler electrics.

You need a 110-120 sedan parts car plus some ingenuity for the rear doors and especially the division.

They worked like a dream on the fronts.

Where does the 41 120 parts car come into play - ie what pieces would I need from such ? Car is a 180 Lebaron Sports Brougham (short coupled w/out divider). Car is fully restored and new cylinders are laying in the trunk (but, a lot of nice paint, runningboards, carpet, and upholstery could get ruined if a problem - and that is why I have electrics on the brain (windows need not go down all the way - it would be nice but not really needed). If I were to have done work I would have converted to manual, but now dealing with newly upholstered door panels and also a dash w/switches in center top (and a high point car). JMM

John
I have the same question in regards to the 110/120 parts car. E-mail me with your phone number, and I'll get you in contact with my brother. He did our last conversion around 1999 and can better tell you what is involved.
Is this the former Blackman car we're talking about?
West
StelvioGT@yahoo.com

I'd seriously look into the linear actuators mentioned on the other thread. Should be a snap mechanically--just need to figure the supply voltage. All the existing switches and probably most of wiring could be reused.