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I do have the 2 part wire harness-I have not traced the wires back to relay or solenoid

Instead of grounding the centrigual switch-I know the kickdown switch shows open instead of closed-I grounded the number 5 lead on the relay to put voltage on 3 and 4. I disconnected 4 at the solenoid. I verfied that there was 6 volts at the 4 lead going to solenoid. I then touched it to the #4 solenoid terminal-there were sparks and a clicking sound-then it stopped. Checked for voltage on the lead 4 and still had 6v. Checked contuity on #4 terminal on the solenoid-it now shows open.

I also verfied that the manual lock out switch was functioning from under the car-it moves very smoothly.

I read the post about the spacer orientation-not sure how to determine right or wrong.

Do the solenoids have a thermal overload switch?

thks

David

The kickdown switch should be closed so that will have to be corrected eventually. Yours should have the 2 terminal switch. If it was replaced at some time with later switch for R11 having 4 terminals, they might have used the wrong pair.

No thermal over load switch but there is a set of contacts which open and disconnect pull in coil when solenoid is engaged. Those do need servicing occasionally or if something prevented the solenoid from dropping all the way back out, those contacts might be open now.

There is a thread on R9 spacer orientation here:
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=104597#forumpost104597

Dear 1949:

Things seem to be getting out of hand here.

It looks as if you manually engaged the overdrive at the relay and that you heard the solenoid engaging. That's good. For safety a test light works as well without risk of short circuits.

So all you need to do to test functionality is run a jumper wire into the car and take it out on the road. Take your foot off the gas and clip the jumper to the ignition key.

If that's all working the problem is in the governor-kickdown-lockout-relay circuit.

For now just take your kickdown wire from the governor and put the two leads on the same post. Then disconnect the ignition interrupter. You can do the same with the lock out.

If the OD still is not working then the problem is in the governor. A metal strap is used for ground. It is notorious for corroding (even when it looks perfect). Remove the governor, clean up the area under the screw and add a #10 anti-shake washer.

You can hook a multi-meter up and test the governor on the road as well. If all is good then move to the next item in the circuit and test functionality. If the governor doesn't work then you can buy a new one.

Hope this helps, and also, do not try to operate an engaged overdrive in reverse.

Tim-the problem is the solenoid does not come in. I ground #5 on the relay-it works-4.5 volts on #3 and 5.5 volts on #4. It all leads to the solenoid-which is probably mechanically binding or there is something else in the OD unit. As mentioned before Mark Lambert-local Packard Wizard worked on this years ago and told the previous owner something is wrong in the OD unit!!

thks for your input-

David

Howard-I guess I am the point of trying to get the soleonid out and see what is going on?

Agree or thoughts of checking something else-I will check tomorrow and see if there is contuity on #4

Wouldn't be a bad idea to pull and check the spacer -- or at least see if you can tell if spacer is correct by description on the other thread. If spacer looks good and solenoid seems to come in & drop out maybe not necessary to pull it.

On the continuity at 4 after touching the terminal and hearing the click -- if wires are connected and power was applied to the system by grounding relay 5, touching 4 would have brought the solenoid in which it sounds as if it did. With 3 having power, it should have stayed in. The continuity at 4 would be open as long as power was applied to 3. After ungrounding relay 5, all should have dropped out and there should be continuity at 4 again if the solenoid plunger came back.

The sound I heard was click like a relay coming in. I did not here a clunk-as the sound has been described to me.

When the solenoid comes in does the light on the dash go out? If it does that would be another way to determine whether the solenoid is working

thks

David

Dear 1949:

Okay, so it doesn't pass governor override functionality and I agree about a mechanical problem. But before that you can take out the solenoid and test it on the bench. Even test it under car by laying on a piece of wood and a jumper wire for ground.

I assume the spacer plate is in correctly given it has already been looked at.

There is a blocker ring inside the unit that gets stuck.

If you put the wheels up you can move the pawl in and out manually too.

The governor ground is not connected for some reason-I have been doing all the tests by grounding the #5 relay terminal which basically by passes the kickdown/lockout/governor switches

you mention a blocker ring in the unit-solenoid or OD unit?-Are you talking about the mechanical lock out? The mechancial lock out lever moves smoothly back and forth

What do you mean put the wheels up? move the pawl manually I assume with the solenoid off the OD

I have not verfied the spacer-but will try today.

I am at the point of pulling the solenoid-As I mentioned earlier with #5 relay grounded and touching the #4 lead to the #4 terminal I got sparks and a clicking sound like a relay but not a clunk-

thks

David

I rechecked the continuity of#4 terminal on the solenoid after applying power-it is open and resets when power is removed from #3-the way it is suppose to work. It sounds like maybe the thing is working but with centrifugal switch open and the kickdown switch open?? I can fix both of those-
I think I see the holes in the spacer facing toward rear-I really donot thing the solenoid has ever been removed from the car.
Suggestions

David