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Brake switch.

Black relay. Terminal strip zipped to battery bracket.

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Parts.

Silencers. Not sure what my dad would say about Packard making them under lic from gm.

Roller cams.

The pic is silencers before derusting.

Finished silencers and cluster cage pic to come.

Some roller cams are what looks like painted copper..

Wondering why that part of silencer has groove ..some do and some don't. The spring does not ride there.

Packard plugs on top. Dormans 6.5mm bottom. I could double up. But one end of shaft has a slot wonder why..after thinking about it must be to align shaft for set screws.

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My first cluster. Ever done 2 mire to go. Putting those little plugs in shafts were a pain. Put lock tight on ends.

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My exhaust leak. The male part broke. So bored it. Put steel pipe in. Still want to make that part out of stainless steel. Or remove it.and have pipe made longer.

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In that superb tutorial series by Dale Adams on rebuilding a Packard Twelve, there was one section devoted to the valve silencers. Highly recommended series of articles for anyone interested in a Twelve rebuilding. From the link below, you want the series that ran in Cars & Parts. In particular I found the segment on manufacturing flanged rod bearings from scratch to be particularly interesting.

http://www.daleadamsenterprises.com/readingmaterial.html

Thanks dave ..yes i have..

Ok..still lifter problem..so i am at the point..IT'S THE PUMP.

I did see bubbles on dip stick.. So the melling. Is in the works. Which i will hate pulling pan.

Going to make my own adapter. Cause looking at melling flange . i might change how its bolted on. When i get a pump i will know.

My problem has been discussed over and over. It happens at high speed. Racing engine i sometimes get it free.. Changed all to jb 789..

Caught in the rain with pack. Found windshield has leak. And chevy wiper motor does not work. Using packard wiper switch. Have not used it in over 20 years..

After changing oil no clacking yet no high speed driving yet. Dropped trans pan. To change the cork gasket that was leaking.

Found a bolt in pan. Wtf...it was from reverse brake. All those bolts were loose. So lock tight this time. 9 ft lbs seems low to me. But that case is aluminum.

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The Packard wire cable off the wiper switch is somewhat thin and stretchy -- I don't know if that is a Packard switch. Based on another almost identical switch which has no provision for an electric washer but provides for a vacuum washer instead, I more suspect it is made by Trico and sized for their easy to move slide valve.. Many including myself have used the Packard switch and Chevy motor successfully. Just make sure the cable is adjusted properly, is clamped tightly enough so when moved it can operate the plastic slide piece to full travel without the sheath moving in the clamp.

The Chevy slide piece on the front of the motor operates a fairly strong spring inside the enclosure to activate the switch or to bring the auto park pawl into operation. Make sure the slide is lubed and as free and as easy to move as possible in its retaining grooves. After sitting all those years the lube could have dried up. If the old plastic slide has broken or is warped and binding, Danchuk has new ones.

The Chevy motor may have used a heavier Bowden cable. If you absolutely cannot get the Packard switch to work perhaps you could check some of the Chevy places and see if any of them have Chevy versions of the switch. If the cable is long enough you might be able to install it in the Packard and still use the Packard knobs.

Thanks h.

Update.

Open door to get mail today. Heard a noise. Looked at pack.the wipers were working under car cover.

I didn't turn back switch. And at some point contact was made.

I took a video. But it's not on utube. The battery was down.

After charging for a few hours went down. Found windshield leak ..gasket cracked at top trim piece retainer so will fill that with silicone. When dry.

I would check the adjustment of the cable and the lube. It sounds as if the cable is just a bit shy of pushing the slide as far as it can or the slide has just enough resistance that it can't quite overcome the spring. When the knob is turned the cable gets it to the point of almost tripping but with the spring tension the sheath wants to stretch rather than kick the slide over the last little bit. If the tension is left on the cable possibly a bump or the continued pressure finally kicks it over the hump.

Where do you have the wiper connected. It sounds as if it is powered continuously. I powered mine off the ballast resistor at the same terminal coming from the ign switch where the electric shift picks up its relay control power.