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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
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Joined:
2009/7/23 18:21
From Sacramento, Ca
Posts: 598
Hi Wes; I do have some sockets 1-1/8, both single and double. You stated brake and turn single, unless you want to change things it should be tail and brake in the lower part with the turn single in the upper. Also found a 48 turn single switch (3 wire), it is easier to wire the 50 switch. I found the switch looking for the sockets by accident. Also might have a 50 if you want me to look. I am trying to cleaning the sawdust out of my shop after making the wood for my station sedan-found all kinds of parts I forgot I had.

Posted on: 8/3 17:08:25
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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
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Joined:
2008/9/29 7:39
From Cordova, TN
Posts: 1302
Dell, You caught me, I got the whole unit mixed up with the individual sockets. Thanks on the offer for the Directional Signal Switch, but just got mine rewired and Ops. Checked Good.

Still soaking the Brake/Tail Light Sockets in Evapo-rust and will go from there in a day or two.
Thanks again and I will keep you in mine.
Wes

Posted on: 8/3 19:54:20
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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
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Joined:
2008/9/29 7:39
From Cordova, TN
Posts: 1302
All cleaned up and rewired.
Wes

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jpg  Directional Signal Switch 00.jpg (405.54 KB)
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Posted on: 8/4 14:06:56
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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
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2008/9/29 7:39
From Cordova, TN
Posts: 1302
Well finally got around to cleaning up the Shift Housing. Took a tube closed off one end and filled it with Evapo-Rust. Let it sit for a day while I cleaned up the shifters. Just wondering what Packard says about lube for that area. I was thinking maybe wiping all the moving parts with a film of oil?
Thanks for any advice.
Wes

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jpg  Shift Housing 00.jpg (321.15 KB)
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jpg  Shift Housing 01.jpg (793.70 KB)
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Posted on: 8/7 15:26:20
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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
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Joined:
2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
Posts: 15986
That assy is one of things I have not found any lube recommendations for. A few drops in the small hole in the tube will run down and what doesn't drip out the end eventually works out of the slot where the pin for the tongue exits to get some oil to the lower shift lever. The upper lever never gets anything.

Before reassembling, I would suggest you use some emory or crocus cloth to polish the shift tube in the areas the levers rotate in. The levers need to be absolutely free when shifting is done so one can independently turn or remain still while the other moves.

It probably wouldn't hurt to apply a very thin coat of light grease before reassembling the levers. For the intact assemblies and as a periodic lube I have suggested those who ask about sticking shift linkages to put a few drops on the shift tube above the upper lever (after trying to pry the lever away from the upper washer and C clip a tiny bit) so the oil can run down between the tube and upper lever.

Posted on: 8/7 15:49:47
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Howard
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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
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Joined:
2008/9/29 7:39
From Cordova, TN
Posts: 1302
Thanks Howard for all the information.
So moving on, I figure this would be a good time to get the Battery Tray out of my way, since it does need to be clean and painted. Removed the four bolts and then for the life of me, I couldn't figure why the tray wouldn't come out. I had forgot about the two bolts behind the Drivers Front Wheel. Stupid me!
Got that out and moved on to removing the Shift Linkage from the side of the motor. Hardest part unhooking the arms going to the transmission. Found one of the bushings froze up. Next on the list start cleaning everything and another question about lubing the linkage. I would be afraid to use grease, due to it would collect dirt and act like a grinding compound or am I just over thinking this?
Also one last thing to remove are the arms going to the transmission and cleaning those up then I'll be ready to put everything back together.
Wes

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jpg  Battery Tray 00.jpg (526.24 KB)
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jpg  Engine Mount Shift Linkage 00.jpg (732.54 KB)
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Posted on: 8/8 14:07:22
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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
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Joined:
2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
Posts: 15986
A couple of things to check closely. On my idler assy I found the round rod part with the nut on the end located at the bottom of the vertical piece that is the actual idler support they rotate around well worn where it enters the socket part of the bracket piece that bolts to the engine -- enough that you could grab the top of the idler assy and move it front to back rather than have the round socket and rod only allow side to side. That extra front/back motion is enough to mess up the shifts. The socket has a grease fitting but I don't think mine saw very much grease over the years.

Another thing to look for in addition to more frozen bushings is the pins at the ends of the rods. Several have reported the pin like protrusions at the rod ends being worn severely enough fill metal had to be welded on and then ground or filed round again. Enough wear in those pins and bushings also affects the shifts.

NOS bushings are hard to come by and full sets are probably non existent. There is three or four different numbers and when I did mine each vendor might have one or two but not all. I finally wound up making a bushing on my lathe for one I could not find. They are specially shaped bushings. Round straight hole in the middle for the rod ends but the outer circumference of the bushings are slightly rounded. The center of the bushing outer diameter fits the hole in the levers but the rounded edges allow the entire rod and bushing to tilt or twist slightly in the various idler or lever holes as the engine rocks with torque and moves the idler levers.

Posted on: 8/8 14:29:30
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Howard
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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
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2015/1/16 9:43
From sw, pa
Posts: 1261
spherical bushings?

Posted on: 8/8 14:43:48
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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
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2014/7/15 11:30
From Terrebonne, OR
Posts: 2050
Self-lubricating oil sintered spherical bushings are used commonly in electric motors as they allow very free-turning without need for absolutely perfect alignment between the ends because they self-align. I didn't know they were used here but it makes sense and they appear to be a commonly-available item in a wide variety of sizes.

Posted on: 8/8 14:56:40
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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
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Joined:
2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
Posts: 15986
If you know of some well stocked outlet please post the info. Don't remember the exact dimensions but they are not a standard size and not quite as fully rounded as the motor types. They are solid hardened steel around 3/16 thick by around 5/8 to 3/4 diameter with the center hole to fit the rod end. I looked at all the usual places that sell bushings in less than ridiculous quantities. Found nothing with the odd dimensions as everything that might have worked had one or two dimensions that didn't. I finally turned a steel rod in the lathe to inner and outer dimensions and then partially rounded the edges before cutting off the thickness to finish the rounding. Mine is not hardened like the originals but figure since like the 56, the 47 will never leave the garage while I own it any excess wear would not be an issue for years to come.

Posted on: 8/8 15:27:43
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