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Tie Rods and Torque Arms
#1
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RichK
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I'm attempting to install my steering connections. I've got my springs in and all my pretty parts. I don't have an engine installed, nor do I have any body on the car.

On a 1941, there are slots in the torque arms for the steering rods to go thru, but I don't seem to have even close to full range of travel (lock to lock) of the steering system as my the rods are rubbing the edges of the slots in the torque arms.

Is it due to the lack of weight on the car? I didn't install the top out bumpers on because I didn't want to mash them up because of the lack of weight. I do have a piece of plastic to protect the parts from metal to metal contact.

Thanks!
Rich
1941 110 Club Coupe

Posted on: 2014/4/19 14:48
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Re: Tie Rods and Torque Arms
#2
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flackmaster
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review your archived pre-disassembly photos - me thinks it possible that you have the tie rods in upside down.. ? wait a minute, rethink...tie rod ends (tapered) only go in one way...

Posted on: 2014/4/19 14:55
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Re: Tie Rods and Torque Arms
#3
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RichK
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yes, I did. All seems well. I just thought I discovered I put the bearings in the wrong spots, but pictures of the past show I'm good. I'll be embarrassed when I figure it out.


Rich

Posted on: 2014/4/19 15:50
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Re: Tie Rods and Torque Arms
#4
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RichK
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my dilemma...

Click to see original Image in a new window



see below where the torque arm clearance to the tie rod link is zero? I just can't figure it out.


Click to see original Image in a new window



Posted on: 2014/4/19 18:59
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Re: Tie Rods and Torque Arms
#5
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JohnCobb
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I just finished the front end on my 1939 Packard Six and had exactly the same issue. I had bought a complete front end kit from Kanter, King pins, tie rod ends both inner and outer, I replaced my center steering bushing / bolt and serviced the drag link. I put new spring pads on the top and bottom of the original springs, new upper shock rubber bushings and bolts and new alignment bushings. A ton of work but now the car drives so great. But, when I first dropped the car on the ground the tie rods rubbed hard on the bottom of the slots, like yours. I could not figure it out, swapped several things around and consulted with a front end guy, my cure was that I heated the steering arms up by the spindle and raised them about 1/2". I believe that the new tie rods are taller than the originals but I looked at a couple of other brands and they all measured the same. I'll be interested to follow this.

Posted on: 2014/4/19 19:36
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Re: Tie Rods and Torque Arms
#6
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RichK
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I was kind of done for the day, but I wanted to better simulate the top out rubber. To do that I place a small chunk of 2x4 where the top out bushing would be. I now barely rub, and I mean barely. Did the other side with the same results.

I figure with the engine and body installed, I'll be good. I'll post a photo in a bit, as well as keep folks posted when I get a real load on the springs.


I indeed checked my tie rods... same height as old when installed.

John & Flack - thanks for posting!


Rich

Posted on: 2014/4/19 20:43
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Re: Tie Rods and Torque Arms
#7
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RichK
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Anyone have a torque spec for the steering crank pin?

Rich

Posted on: 2014/4/19 20:46
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Re: Tie Rods and Torque Arms
#8
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RichK
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here's a photo with a simulated top out bumper (2x4)

Click to see original Image in a new window



And here's the new clearance....
Click to see original Image in a new window

Posted on: 2014/4/19 20:59
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Re: Tie Rods and Torque Arms
#9
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Ross
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Pretty much every Safe-T-Flex car I've worked on will rub its tie rods when the car is up on a lift. They need to have a good upper bumper in place.

Posted on: 2014/4/20 6:27
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