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Here is a picture of a "repair" to the steering idler on my 2106. I am guessing the nuts either stripped out or let loose from inside the frame.
In any event, I would like to be able to drop the oil pan someday if I need to.
Could someone explain how to go about repairing this mess? I was thinking that if we can get the idler off the frame,
perhaps we could run bolts through the frame and attach with nuts, as with the steering box.
Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Mark

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I think the first thing to be done is see what you have to work with -- or work around -- inside the frame. I doubt the "nuts" are stripped but more suspect they were just tacked or pressed into the frame half during build and one or both have now broken loose. We have seen that in other places where the bolts rusted in the threads and the fastening was not strong enough to hold the nut during removal. I use the word "nuts" for convenience but don't think they are actual hex nuts that can be held with a wrench but more likely a round threaded length of steel.

The first photo shows the frame opening about a foot behind the idler where the photo was taken. The second photo shows the two nuts inside the frame rail.

As I see it, there are 3 options. The first would be go with your original idea and run thru bolts -- but it is a wide space to span. Not knowing how strong the frame might be, IMO, Ross's suggestion to another poster with a similar loose nut (but in a different area) about either reinforcing the frame or adding some kind of spacer between the rails to keep the frame from deforming if the bolt is under a lot of stress should be followed here as well.

It is a reach but for the second option you could tape an actual hex nut to a wrench and maneuver in that opening to position and hold the nut while the bolt was tightened. Not something I would particularly want to do but possible. In a similar thought, drill thru holes but on the outer frame side enlarge the holes just wide enough for a socket to enter and reach thru to hold the nuts. You might get by with just one carefully positioned large hole on the outer side and reach both nuts with a universal or flex socket.

The third option if both nuts have come loose and no longer in the way is to add a steel plate of maybe 3/8-1/2" thickness, sized to fit the inside frame height and wide enough for the idler bolts plus a little extra on each side. Slide the plate in, mark the bolt locations and then pull out and drill and tap for those bolts. Reinsert the plate and tighten the idler bolts to keep it positioned. Then drill and tap a couple of extra holes for cap screws on either side to hold the plate to the frame rail. If one or both original nuts are still present and in the way, the plate could still be done but the thickness would have to be much more -- maybe an inch. Sufficient to drill a large hole halfway thru so the plate can fit over the existing nuts plus have enough left to tap for the idler bolts.

Anyway, my

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Thanks Howard,
Excellent, in depth response as always. I had thought about adding a plate, but wondered if that would upset the steering geometry. Still no engine installed, so accessibility is in my favor. Lots to think about - thanks again..
Mark

My own preference if it were my car is since there is no engine in the car now, go ahead and do the work to add the plate inside the frame. That way the cure should be permanent and no hassles when removal time comes. With it inside the frame there would be no changes to geometry either.

I like your preference, and there seems little room for error which is always a consideration for me. Thanks for the excellent pictures.

Check this out, maybe of some help.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=10879&forum=2&post_id=116016#forumpost116016
Wes

The captive nut is a good idea if you can find a modern one to fit the hole in the thread size you need. Packard used some larger body diameters that don't seem to be stock items. If no luck perhaps your machinist can make something similar to the original and weld it in -- although the work would be about the same as a plate.

These two threads are timely for me, as I'm about to put mine back together. What is the proper torque on these two bolts? I'd hate to break the "nuts" free!

46-50 SM says 25-30.

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OK, trying to remove idler lever from the bracket on the frame. Idler held to bracket with the bushing, I get that. But I am confused by this thread:

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/reply.php?forum=2&topic_id=12568

Is the bushing attached to the bracket with right or left hand threads? I see that the chart calls for 100+. but man, this bushing is tight - tight enough that my husky younger brother could break something. Any secrets here?
Thanks,
Mark